alan_olander1664878205

<p>"I'm not sure what it means to size the photo shoot for 8x10 etc inside the viewfinder."<br> You have to make marks with a grease/wax pencil on the focusing screen to delineate 8 x 10 framing.</p>

<p>Do you not have your images in folders and subfolders? If you do, you don't need to "see" all of them in LR. Select a folder in the LR Library, and you will only see the images in that folder.</p>

<p>If you want a camera that functions without batteries, get a FM2.</p>

<p>If you overexpose so much that the RGB channels are all blown out, yes the snow will be white no matter what the white balance. But that's not what you want. Overexposing a stop or two from the meter will give you bright snow, like it should be, but it can still have a cast. If you don't overexpose from what the meter is telling you, then the snow will be gray with or without a cast depending upon your WB setting. If you shoot RAW, worry about the WB later, for the most part.</p>

<p>"LR converts from CC to 6"<br> <br />Are you sure? There is a feature or two that CC has now that LR6 doesn't.<br> You can click on this link and scroll down to Lightroom and buy it from there:<br> https://www.adobe.com/products/catalog/software._sl_id-contentfilter_sl_catalog_sl_software_sl_mostpopular.html</p>

<p>Isn't the flash going to do that in everything but Manual and non-TTL Auto modes?</p>

<p>"I was under the impression exposure compensation is only used for Apature mode which I never ever use."<br> <br />Exposure compensation in manual mode biases the meter, so, yes, it affects the exposure.</p>

<p>I think you're wasting your time shooting color negative film. About the only thing you have control of is the exposure. The developing and printing is often it is done poorly so you can't really judge how you're doing.<br> Shoot some slide film if you want to learn about exposure.</p>

<p>"I suppose if the lens works that it is only able to open the aperture fully, which would often be the setting one might choose."<br> Not entirely sure what you mean here, but you wouldn't usually use large apertures for macro. You would use small apertures like f/8 to f/16. That is why the available light is often an issue.</p>

<p>I think the girls cover too little of the overall scene for matrix to know how to expose it. I'm not sure Program mode is the best thing to use, either, if it wants to shoot wide open in this scenario. Use Aperture Priority.</p>

<p>You don't have to use spot metering to get the SB-600 into iTTL. You can set that on the flash itself with the "Mode" button. Spot metering can be all over the place depending upon the brightness/darkness of the area under the spot. Use Matrix metering, Aperture Priority for an exposure mode, use an appropriate aperture for situation, and put the flash on iTTL. Should work fine for family photography.</p>

<p>"What is the bar."<br> Ditto to what Rick H. said.<br> Its the meter bar showing the degree of underexposure. The meter reads the ambient light and does not consider that you're using flash. The settings in the first image (looks like f/7.1 at 1/60) is underexposing an ambient exposure by several stops. The next image (f/3.2 at 1/60), is showing only slightly underexposure, 2/3rds of a stop.<br> You should probably be using TTL not TTL-BL in this situation.</p>

<p>To answer your question, either the 50mm or the 105mm would keep you at a good distance for tight head shots with pleasing perspective when used with a DX camera like your D7000.</p>

<p>Or, it may have to do with this:<br> http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=146&topic_id=13313&mesg_id=13313&page=</p>

<p>Although the small size of the images makes evaluating the sharpness difficult, I think the photos are sharp. Going to a 50mm won't do anything for you except get you a lot closer to the snake!!</p>

<p>"I resize to 5" on the longest side @ 100ppi"<br> Why do you do it that way? Same as saying 500 pixels (5" x 100 ppi) on the long side which isn't very big. You don't need to worry about ppi for web display just pixel dimensions.</p>

<p>"way too expensive"<br /> <br />You have an expensive camera and lens and want to trust a cheap tripod? Buy a used older model Gitzo carbon fiber (or even aluminum) and a used RRS or Kirk, etc. head.</p>

<p>1/40th at f/5.6, ISO 200, is going to result in an underexposed image when shooting such a dark scene as this. Look at the meter in the viewfinder.</p>

<p>The numbers he talked about were probably the aspect ratio of the particular camera he uses. Most DSLRs have an aspect ratio of 2:3, e.g. 4000 x 6000 pixels. You can print the whole frame without cropping, especially if you do your own printing, and have custom frame sizes made. However, I think there are a lot more "non-standard" frames available now. 8 x 12 frames are available, for example, and that's in the 2:3 ratio.<br> In Lightroom, if you choose "Original" for the crop, the image will keep it's original height to width ratio, e.g. 2:3. Even if you crop it down some to eliminate some unwanted elements, the crop lines will maintain the 2:3 ratio. (Choosing 2 x 3 or 4 x 6 would do the same thing.) If you choose 8 x 10, you will be cropping a lot off of the long dimension.</p>

<p>He asked "without the help of the black card or other assistant tools."<br /> Use flash using a small lens aperture. This way the ambient light exposure (background) will be very underexposed and the flower will be illuminated correctly by the flash. The background must not be immediately behind the flower, however.<br /> <br />There are other methods, too. Technique article:<br /> http://www.naturescapes.net/articles/techniques/avoiding-black-backgrounds-for-macro-photography/</p>

<p>"It's not done from the Control Panel with Lightroom."</p> <p>Why do you think that?</p><div></div>

<p>Press the button on the back labeled "ISO" (lower left). Spin the thumb wheel to change.</p>

<p>You wouldn't get a warranty with any used camera. Nikon may not touch an import but Nikon Authorized Service stations, like the one mentioned above, will repair any camera, USA or import.<br> <br />I see no appreciable noise.</p>

<p>You have bad vignetting in the 3rd shot. Do you have the hood on wrong or using one or more filters?</p>

<p>If the aspect ratio of your camera's sensor is not the same as the aspect ratio of the print you want, then the image will need to be cropped. For example, images from a DSLR that has a 3:2 ratio sensor would have to be printed as 9 x 6, 12 x 8, 30 x 20, etc. prints to avoid cropping.</p>