alan_olander1664878205

<p>Maybe someone should correct the title of this post. :o)</p>

<p>What "mirror adjustment per Cam Tech" are you referring to? I don't think "adjusting" the mirror was the thing to do unless that was something Nikon repair did. You have not mentioned doing AF Fine Tune on your lenses. You can adjust the camera all you want but until you tune each lens to your camera you're not going to accomplish anything.</p>

<p>Since Dima said, "I constantly find myself shooting at high ISOs", that would rule out exposure comp, etc., wouldn't it? Even if you raised the ISO, exposure comp would still be in effect. That sounds like something is reducing light transmission like the aperture stuck at small f/stops.</p>

<p>Soon to come to your neighborhood too, perhaps:<br> <br /> https://www.dpreview.com/news/3354529492/swedish-court-rules-drone-photography-is-surveillance-and-requires-a-permit</p>

<p>Dialing in plus 1 EC will give you f/4 at 1/125. Plus 1 means to overexpose 1 stop. If you want to use f/8 and keep the exposure the same, set the shutter speed to 1/60.</p>

<p>To step into this business and "earn a living for my family" is not something you will be able to do easily. You need more training and experience to make a living at this.</p>

<p>To keep the flash from popping up, stop using "Auto" mode. Use a semi-automatic mode like Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority. If you're using a "kit" lens with a not-so-wide maximum aperture, then you'll have raise the ISO quite high for nighttime sports. The blur is from slow shutter speeds which can't stop action. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson.</p>

<p>"Standard print sizes are aspect ratios 4:3 (10"x13" for example) and 3:2 (i.e. 4"x6", 10"x15")"</p> <p>Oh really? Seems like 5 x 7, 8 x 10, 11 x 14, and others were quite common in the "35mm days" (and now) and all of them require cropping before printing and none of them are the same aspect ratio.<br> <br />Having one file at one aspect ratio and allowing the client to order various size and aspect ratio prints may not work very well. What ever you provide, images probably should be sized to give good resolution at the largest print size you're offering, e.g. an 8 x 10 @ 300ppi would be a 2400 x 3000 pixel file.</p>

<p>The setup in the link could only be used for extreme close-ups of snowflakes and other very small objects. It couldn't be used for larger objects like jewelry, most likely. (It wouldn't be able to focus on them.)<br> The macro mode on your camera allows very close focusing, and it is doubtful any type of add-on lens would provide better results. Close-up photography requires a tripod or use of flash in many instances to prevent motion blur. What is it about the quality of your close-up images that you don't like?<br> </p>

<p>I have bought several refurbished cameras (D300, D7100) and lenses and have not had an issue. They can be cameras that were purchased new and returned to the dealer for any number of reasons. They could have been returned only because the purchaser changed they're mind.<br /> "I don't believe there's any such thing as a "factory refurb"."<br /> I think you're wrong there. You'd rather buy a well used camera rather than a refurb? Get real and get off your high horse.</p>

<p>The background in the sample image is "very ordinary". What was the lens supposed to do with it? If you what more blur, open the lens up.</p>

<p>You are correct. Paul is incorrect. You'll have no metering, is all, as others have said.</p>

<p>They are "overpriced" because they delivery better optical quality than most others. The Marumi are supposed to be quite good, also. I'd get the Canon in the thread size you need or get a 77mm and step-up rings to fit any lens with smaller filter threads.</p>

<p>The little girl's eyes and face look quite sharp to me. There isn't any type of filter that would help with sharpness.</p>

<p>Well, either you heard that wrong or Jack doesn't know what he's talking about. Using a full frame camera, the DOF at f/1.2 and 15 feet is measured in inches, 8 inches actually. There is either something wrong with your focusing methods or something wrong with the lens. (Plus the DOF issue.)<br> http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html</p>

<p>If the lens was good at first, there could be a problem with the lens that requires repair. The AF Fine Tune feature is available on most Nikon cameras and if an adjustment is needed it only applies to the specific lens (unless you have a default camera adjustment set). This feature adjusts for lens/camera combinations that might slightly front or back focus consistently.<br /> I think the reason for the suggestion to try manual focus was to see if it focused OK that way, not that you should use manual focus all the time when shooting. Is this the old version of the 80-400mm? What camera are you using it on?</p>

<p>The AF motor is probably bad. Mine did this, and it appears to be a somewhat common occurrence. About a $300-$400 fix.</p>

<p>I think he's asking about depth of field. Yes, at a wide aperture like f/1.8, 2.8, or even 5.6, the depth of field is very shallow meaning the area in focus will be small, front to back. At very close distances, even f/16 or smaller may not give you enough in focus.</p>

<p>There are no "best settings". For each situation, the settings you will use will be determined by the light available, the depth of field you need/want, the "look" you want, and other things. In general, portraits are often shot at wider apertures to limit depth of field. Landscapes and close-ups often require smaller apertures to increase depth of field. Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO all need to be considered for each image you take.</p>

<p>The 50mm f/1.8 G lens that I use on my D7100 requires a +8 focus adjustment using the AF Fine Tune feature of the camera. Unfortunately, the D5300 does not have this feature. It's not uncommon to need to use AF Fine Tune.</p>

<p>At f/32, with most any lens, you're going to get reduction in quality due to diffraction. I looks like the Canon 60mm macro has excellent sharpness from wide open to f/8 or so, but you shouldn't decide which aperture to use based solely on this. There are always other issues to consider when selecting an aperture to use, e.g. DOF, available light.<br> <br />Lens test of Canon 60mm:<br> http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/513-canon60f28apsc?start=1</p>

<p>The 24-70mm on a D7100 will have the same field of view as a 36-105mm lens on a full frame camera (FX). That's slight wide to short telephoto.</p>

<p>I, too, would say you're overexposing with the D700.</p>

<p>Dye inks in general are going to give you somewhat more vivid colors. In addition, your printer is only a 4 color printer. The Artisans are 6 color. The high end pigment ink jet printers use 8 or more colors.</p>

<p>Bouncing requires the light to travel much further to the subject thereby reducing its brightness. (Remember the inverse square law.) In addition, the ceiling or other bouncing surface may not be of high reflectivity further reducing the light.</p>