alan_olander1664878205

If you have Lightroom, you can use LRTimelapse software. There are many tutorials on making time lapse videos. LRTimelapse - Advanced Time Lapse Photography made easy!

One click of the WB dropper in Lightroom.

Shoot with a much longer focal length lens, like 200-300mm, or choose a subject with a much more distant background. And as others have recommended, shoot at f/4 and focus stack.

This guy is making metal sublimation prints at home with basic equipment. Doesn't look too problematic. Jose Rodriguez

As you have probably already determined, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO all work together to provide a properly exposed image. Aperture would be most important when you want to control the depth of field (DOF). If you want a shallow DOF (as often you do with your example of portraiture), you would use a large aperture (smaller number like f/2.8). A landscape would usually require a smaller aperture (like f/11) to get as much of the scene as possible in acceptable focus. When aperture is the priority, the shutter speed is allowed to fall where it may. However, if the resultant shutter speed is too slow, you would need to resort to using a tripod or to raising the ISO. Shutter speed would be a priority where you want to stop action, for example. The aperture, in this case, would be secondary, and ISO would be used to keep the shutter speed up to where you want it. As you said, all of these things depend upon the situation and what you wish to accomplish with an image.

You can delete the Previews folder, but 1.6 GB isn't that much. I'm not aware that LR backs up the Previews folder or are you doing that manually? LR backs up the Catalog as often as you have set it to do so in the Catalog Preferences. Besides backing up the Catalog, backing up the images themselves is extremely important. Are you doing so?

The RAW file will always be where you put it upon Import with Lightroom. Its location will not change (unless you change it) nor will the RAW file be changed. You can always go back to the unedited version by going to the History panel and selecting the Import point. To find a RAW file using LR, right click on the image and select "Find in Explorer". A window will open showing the folder and its images where the RAW file is located.

There is no in-camera panoramic mode, if that's what you're asking. You have to take multiple images and use stitching software to combine them.

You will need to use a fast lens, f/2.8 or faster, and a high ISO. Most, if not all, aurora images are made using a tripod as the shutter speeds needed will be in the seconds. Typical settings would be f/2.8, 10-15 seconds at ISO 1600 or higher, on a tripod. I don't think you would be able to get acceptable results hand-held. Very high ISO's would mean lots of noise. How to Photograph the Northern Lights

Expose correctly at the rated ISO and don't use any negative exposure compensation. If anything, negative film responds better to overexposure. Trying to get a certain look by exposing a certain way and then having a lab guess at your intentions is not going to work. You'd need to print your own or have a custom lab print for you.

If you're using LR Classic CC, try pausing the LR CC sync. Very upper left hand corner is a drop down arrow to access that. (Hover cursor by your name in upper left.)

I just sent an Arca-Swiss Z1+ to Wimberley to have them remove the top platform (done free of charge) and install one of their C-12 clamps (blemished) for $52 plus shipping. I tried to remove the screw myself but couldn't. Wimberley informed me that it requires heat for removal and that an impact wrench works the best to break the screw loose.

80mm is the lens focal length not the filter thread size.

How about this:

Every new camera that comes along will have a change in the RAW format that requires an update by Photoshop (ACR) or any other raw editor.

Send it to Authorized Photo Service, Morton Grove, Il. They don't care where it came from and do a excellent job. Nikon camera service and repair - Authorized Photo Service, Inc.

You're dealing with a depth of field issue. If you were 2 feet from your subjects using the zoom at 55mm and f/16, the depth of field would be about 3". Anything not within that range will be noticeably out of focus. If the figures were all in a row they would all be in focus, but that wouldn't make for a very interesting shot. Look into focus stacking which combines several exposures at different focus settings. Using Focus Stacking to Extend Depth of Field

Most of the metal prints are made using a dye sublimation process with specially coated aluminum sheets and a heat press. Printers with sublimation inks are used to print the image on the transfer medium paper. Probably not something you'd do at home. Breathing Color has a metal print medium to use with a regular pigment ink printer. See link below. Allure Fine Art Metal

You accidentally moved the self timer lever a bit. With the self timer, the mirror goes up when you press the shutter release button then the shutter trips at the end of the timer. Just a thought because I've done that myself.

So you had to post your criticism twice. So what's so great about the "yellow" vintage look, and the contrast and whites weren't any worse than the original posted image which is all Ray had to work with. Let's see your rendition.

Browse to its location on your computer, select it, and click "Open".

Why do think it has AF issues? I had one and had no problems with it.