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alan_olander1664878205

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Everything posted by alan_olander1664878205

  1. Why are you orienting some of you images incorrectly?
  2. It's both motion blur (you can see a double image) and a focus issue. Always use a fast shutter speed by using Tv or manual. I'm not familiar with Canon's AF system, but if there's something like an AF-ON function, use that and keep the button down while panning the airplane.
  3. I have a Kirk BH-1 ball head for sale. It's in good condition with a few small scuffs on the body and scrapes on a two of the knobs. Has a Jobu Designs clamp installed. It is Kirk's largest ball head and will hold up to 50#. Locks down solidly. Asking $145 shipped. PayPal OK.
  4. The compression isn't doing it. The image is being cropped to a 3:1 (4912 x 1632) aspect ratio whereas the D800 native ratio is 3:2. 3:1 is "panoramic". Somewhere in NX2 the file is being altered. NX2 is dead software ;), try something else.
  5. A D800 un-compressed NEF (RAW) file is 74.4 MB (megabyte) not MP (medapixeI). The D800 has a 36MP (megapixel) sensor. You're either cropping, reducing the pixel dimensions, or compressing it greatly to get a JPEG image too small for submission.
  6. The SB-400 operates in BL-TTL all the time unless you set the camera to spot metering then it will operate in regular TTL. Manual flash control is set in the camera's menu where you can select full power, 1/2 power, 1/4 power, etc. See link below: Nikon TTL BL flash - D-lens distance data accuracy
  7. I use Red River Paper's inkjet greeting cards to print 5 x 7 folded cards. I have been using their Polar Matte card stock. Take a look a their website: Inkjet Printable Greeting Cards Note Cards Card Stock
  8. For sale a Wimberley WH-200 gimbal head, near new, $425 which includes shipping.
  9. "You would need a +10 dioptre CU "filter" to reach 1:1 or greater with that lens." The Sigma 150mm f/2.8 Macro goes to 1:1 by itself, does it not? Even the older one. It just depends on how much more than 1:1 you want to go. Either diopters or tubes would get you a modest amount more magnification.
  10. I don't think he's talking about not be able to print large because he doesn't have enough resolution. He's talking about the images being cropped when printed to "standard" sizes. You can print large without the image being cropped. If you have a DSLR with 2:3 aspect ratio, then print 8 x 12, 10 x 15, 12 x 18, 20 x 30, etc., all which are 2:3. Most printing companies offer those sizes. Sometimes framing can be an issue, though.
  11. The scenes are too bright to expose them at 1 sec or more even if you use f/22, i.e. the lens can't stop down enough. You've run up against a physical limit of the lens. You need a ND filter.
  12. <p>It's the same "smear", in the same place, because you've rotated the camera. It's dust or hair on the sensor. How much it shows depends upon the aperture used when the image was taken. Small aperture, e.g. f/22, the more it shows. Have the sensor cleaned.</p>
  13. <p>For a PC use GoodSync.</p> <p>https://www.goodsync.com/lp?frm=gsp-016&affid=22e09&gclid=CL-uvfGJodECFQK4wAoddLIGzA</p>
  14. <p>The 18-55mm is a good performer and is recommended by Thom Hogan in this article:<br> http://www.dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-databases-for-nikon/thoms-recommended-lenses.html<br> Previously, he had recommended the VRII version, the one prior to the VR AF-P.<br> The image below was taken with the VRII.</p> <p> </p><div></div>
  15. <p>It's sensor dust. You would never see any evidence in an image of a small front element nick on a telephoto lens.</p>
  16. <p>I know Epson's are prone to clogging, but using third party inks isn't going to help, IMO.</p>
  17. <p>Nikon does not just do what few things you bring to their attention. They bring it back up to specs.</p>
  18. <p>I don't really see much of any difference between the two.</p>
  19. <p>The 50mm f/1.8 would still work, just change the shooting distance. You'll still be able to blur the background.</p>
  20. <p>Unless you purposely wanted to include as much of the distant background as you did, get closer and shoot vertically. The depth of field will be less when closer to your subject. Set the lens wide open at 55mm. A 50mm prime f/1.8 lens used at wider apertures (f/2.8-4) would give you better background blur. The lens you have doesn't have a wide enough maximum aperture to do what you want in many cases.</p>
  21. <p>Why don't you just get something like a Nikon D5500 with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm kit lenses. I think you'll have nothing but frustration trying to use your old lenses on a new body, unless you're into that kind of fiddling around. The auto-focus on the D5500 is much much better than the point and shoot you used, and the image quality with this camera and the kit lenses will be far and above what your old lenses will do. The kit lenses focus fairly closely, too.</p>
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