radhika_d

I'm a relatively new Gitzo 1542T owner. The 1542T is designed to be usable both with and without the centre post. I've practiced taking the centre post in and out a few times, and I'm not sure reassembling the tripod correctly. When I extend the centre post, it slides right back down. I can't seem to make it lock in place, even when I twist the twist-lock collar at the base of the centre post (it looks similar to the twist lock on the tripod legs). When I use the tube shaped thing on the centre column, I can make the centre column stay in place when it is extended. However, when I look at photos on the internet, it looks as the the centre column is meant to stay extended without using the tube shaped thing. For some reason the tripod did not come with diagrams or a manual, and as a result I can't be confident of my attempts at reassembling the tripod.

<p>I have an Olympus TG3 Tough automatic camera. I notice that when the camera is not used for a week or two, the battery drains. This occurs even when the camera is powered off. Is this a common problem with this camera, or do I have a dud?</p>

<p>Thanks for your help so far, but I feel my question has not been answered:<br /> if I have already defined what 'white' is by setting custom white balance in the same light I am shooting in, why do I still need to overexpose a stop or two above zero to get the snow to look 'white' in the photo?<br /> Related: how do we define a colour cast?</p>

<p>I am trying to understand white balance and metering and how they intersect. I understand that the purpose of white balance is to prevent colour casts in a photo.<br> Let's say I am taking a photo of a scene with a lot of snow. I am shooting in manual mode. I set custom white balance using an 18% gray card. When I am metering, do I have to overexpose a stop or two above zero to get accurate exposure for the snow?<br> After all, I have set my white balance. If this is so, shouldn't my snow be 'white' in my photo? Why do I have to increase exposure a couple of stops above zero to get white snow in the exposure?</p>

<p>I am considering this lens as an all-purpose walkaround lens. I am using it to replace my <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/397662-USA/Canon_0344B002AA_24_105mm_f_4L_IS_USM.html">Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM. </a><br> <br />I am replacing my existing lens to get more performance in low light situations, especially when shooting indoors in low lit restaurants and receptions. However, the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L does not have image stabilization. I almost always shoot handheld. For those of you who use this lens, do you find the lack of IS to be a detriment?</p>

<p>I shoot with a Canon 6D. I currently have it set for Spot Autofocus. I will see if this changes with Zone AF.</p>

<p>Does anyone know if there is a setting where the focus markers (the little red squares in the viewfinger) will illuminate in Al Servo mode when tracking a moving subject? If this feature exists, I should be able to see various focus markers illuminating as the lens tracked my subject, depending on where in the viewfinder my subject is.<br> <br /> When I test in Al Servo, I can feel the vibrations of the lens turning, and so I know the lens is tracking focus on a moving subject. However, the only focus marker that will illuminate is the one I used when I originally targeted the subject I want to follow.</p>

<p>Thank you for your replies. Does anyone know if there is a setting where the focus markers (the little red squares in the viewfinger) will illuminate in Al Servo mode when tracking a moving subject? If this feature exists, I should be able to see various little red squares illuminating as the lens tracked my subject, depending on where in the viewfinder my subject is.<br> When I test in Al Servo, I can feel the vibrations of the lens turning, and so I know the lens is tracking focus on a moving subject. However, the only little red square that will illuminate is the one I used when I originally targeted the subject I want to follow.</p>

<p>I shoot with a Canon 6D. I have recently made the switch to back button focus and I am seeing results. I am reasonably comfortable in One Shot mode, especially since the camera beeps when focus is achieved in One Shot mode. I have not fully grasped Al Servo because in Al Servo, the camera does not beep when focus is achieved.<br> If I am using back button focus in Al Servo mode, and if the camera does not beep when focus is achieved in Al Servo mode, how am I to know when I have achieved focus?</p>

<p>Thank you for your responses. I have a related question. If I am using back button focus in AI Servo mode, and if the camera does not beep when focus is achieved in AI Servo mode, how am I to know when I have achieved focus?</p>

<p>Thank you so much for your responses. I have a related follow up question, that has to do with something confusing me from Canon's online article on back button focus. Here is the quote, with the part that is confusing me bolded:<br> <br /> " sports photographers and others taking action pictures, back-button AF lets you stop focus whenever something might interfere with the moving subject you’re tracking — without requiring you to stop shooting. In sports, for instance, it’s common for a referee or another player to come between the camera and an athlete being photographed. <a href="http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml" data-gallery-itemindex="2">With back-button AF, it’s easy to momentarily pull your thumb off the rear button,</a> <strong>and you can still keep shooting by pressing the shutter button fully</strong>. The camera instantly stops focusing when your thumb comes off the back button. Once the obstruction is out of your way, you can immediately pick-up your primary subject by pressing your thumb on the back button again."<br /> <br />What is the advantage of continuing to shoot when something, in this case the referee, is blocking the subject of interest? If the referee is in the way of the subject which is in focus, and one continued to shoot, wouldn't one simply end up with not-in-focus photos of the referee? I feel there is a piece I am missing here.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br /> <br />I am new to back button focus and I am hoping someone can help me better understand it.<br /> <br />Let's say I am shooting in One Shot mode with Back Button Focus. I use my autofocus point selector to select focus on my friend's eye and take my shot. She then moves. She is the same distance from the camera. Do I need reselect a new focus point to focus on her eye in its new position, even though her eyes are equidistant from the camera? Would this change if I was shooting in AI Servo?</p>

<p>I am not sure why you think I am trying to run before I walk. I have taking photographs semi professionally for years and am trying to clarify some points of confusion after realizing there may be alternate ways to set the white balance to what I have been doing. I posted to this forum after consulting multiple online sources which were not providing the answers I need. It would be nice if we could keep this cordial. From what I can tell, a forum is for dialogue and exchange of ideas aka learning. If my questions are too elementary for you, there is no need to trouble yourself with answering them.</p>

<p>I have much to learn about white balance, but I do not want to rely on AWB. I am trying to learn about white balance, which is why I am using this forum.<br> <br /> I think the key piece I was not considering was that my camera would see 100% white as 18% gray, 100% black as 18% gray, and of course it would see 18% gray as 18% gray. I finally understood this after doing some additional internet scouring.<br /> <br />For metering purposes, what is the standard? I use my camera's internal reflective white meter. Do most folks meter off something 18% gray, such as a gray card?</p>

<p>So are you saying one should use something like a whiBal for white balance, and a gray card to meter for exposure? If shooting JPEG, are you saying I can set a custom white balance using an 18% gray card, and then meter off the same 18% gray card?<br /> <br />Also, I should have said 'reflective light meter', not reflective white meter'.</p>