Fotohuis RoVo

<p>A Jobo 1540=1510+1530 including the necessary centre columns needed. A 2509N reel can be configured in 9x12cm or 4x5" each for maximum 2 sides x 3=6 sheet films.</p>

<p>For one 2509N reel you need a 2521 tank or a 2523 tank (with cog lid). The diameters of the 15xx and 25xx are interchangable. You can also convert a paper drum to a film drum or v.v. Sizes as described above. Achsrohr/centre column needed:</p> <p>For 1510: 04043<br> For 1520: 04044<br> For 1530: 04045<br> For 1540: 04045+04043</p> <p>For 2521/2523: 04044<br> For 2551/2553: 04045+04044<br> For 2561/2563: 04073+04044+04045</p>

<p>I probably won't survive frozen films after 50 years but OK here is my opinion:<br> Slow speed films (< iso 50) you can keep very long when frozen only in 120 roll film the paper can get sticky after 20 years or so. Best and compact storage is 35mm bulk but regular 135-36 cassettes are also no problem when the freezer is a bit bigger. When Fotokemika stopped producing photo materials in 2012 I kept enough Efke 25 / Rollei Pan 25 35mm/120 roll films in my freezer for the coming years.</p>

<p>Any distilled water or even deminiralised water is OK (e.g. Brita water) for photochemicals. In worst case too many Calcium salts and Iron can spoil the developer or give stripes and stains in the wetting agent step. When cooking tap water and cool it down you are loosing already some problems with Calcium salts and also oxygen in the photo water. Cooking water, put it through a Brita filter and coffee filter is the best semiprofessional solution you can do. Then you are going to any reverse osmose system but this is already overdone for photochemicals. Tap water can vary very much world wide.</p>

<p>Old 8mm (and 16mm) reels are difficult to find so:</p> <p>I just bought new for a reasonable amount of money two professional modified 2502 reels (Jobo) for 16mm and 8mm films. Not cheap but they are working great!</p>

<p>Diafine (two bath), POTA, Delagi, TDLC-103, FLG/Rollei Low Contrast, Caffenol CL, Rodinal in a high dilution are working as lower contrast type developers. Start with iso 6-10 and just try a few times. In fact when you're starting from zero you need a densitometer for real hard measurements but also just by sight it is possible to come to a reasonable result.<br> The same problems you will have with films like: Agfa Copex; Rollei ATP1,1 ; Adox CMS20 also all (Agfa Gevaert) micro films. You as you said: Suitable for 110/16mm or even Minox 8mm (8x11mm). I just bought new for a reasonable amount of money two professional modified 2502 reels (Jobo) for 16mm and 8mm films.</p>

<p>Iso 320 +/- 1/3rd F stop, so an iso 250 film you may call iso 320. In a regular type developer this Retropan 320 Soft is iso 320 but at a low contrast G=0,55 or even less. Normally I am working with G=0,62-0,65 also because I have an enlarger with a combined diffuser/condensor system. The iso test can be done with any manufacturer developer, in this case they used their Special Retropan developer. For e.g. FP400 they are using their Fomadon LQN. It gives iso 320 so they may call it an iso 400 film.<br> My Retropan 320 Soft test:<br> http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150317</p>

<p>All slow speed films have a high contrast. You can try CG-512/Rollei Low Speed 1+4 (24C) (U. Raffay) which is also very succesfully with the Rollei Retro 80(S) from Agfa Gevaert. Another possibility A-49 1+1 or 1+2 or Rollei Supergrain 1+15 (an Amaloco AM74 copy) but even with the last the contrast is still pretty high. I did not try 1+19 yet.<br /> With a real low contrast developer like Film Low Gamma (U. Raffay) / Rollei Low Contrast (RLC) you can also have great results. I also tried TDLC-103 it also works but not so good as FLG/RLC 1+4.</p> <p>The disadvantage of R09/Rodinal even with a higher dilution is the strong S-curve with above film(s). In the shadows you can manage it but for the highlight, they are burned out.</p>

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2136/13042682963_0616b31446_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="516" /></p> <p>An example from the RPX-25, R09/Rodinal 1+50.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Rollei films with <em>Clear Polyester</em> layer:<br> RPX-25<br> Retro 80(S)<br> Retro 400(S) = (S)uperpan 200<br> Rollei IR-400(S) even worse due to extended sensitivity till 820nm.<br> Rollei RPX-100/400 are made on Tri-Acetate and they are Grey colored like Ilford films. These two films are also made by Ilford/Harman, 125um 135-36 and 100um the 120 roll films, where the Retro(S) is coming from Agfa Gevaert which is aviation type material all made on 100um layer, also the 135-36 films hence extra precaution with the "light piping" effect in 135-36 but also with roll film, put the glue sticker straight on the film without loosing force on the roll film so that they can unwrap.</p>

<p>About Fomapan films and developers:<br> http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Ontwikkeltijden.pdf</p> <p>Where Fomadon R09 is Rodinal compatible and Fomadon P W37 a D-76/ID-11 copy and Fomadon Excel W27 widely Xtol (Kodak) compatible.<br> Their last new film: Foma Retropan 320 Soft, a low contrast type higher speed film. For this film Foma made, like DD-X, a Foma Special Retro developer 1 ltr. Also cheap like above powders from Foton/Foma. In the Netherlands P W37 is half priced comparing to the original ID-11 (Ilford) developer. All these older type developers are published because D-76 is a Kodak developer from 1927, Rodinal is from 1891.</p> <p>Good luck with your choices.</p> <p>Best regards,</p> <p>Robert</p>

<p>Data sheet of the new Foma <em>Retropan 320 Soft</em>:<br> http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/ew/ec816f17-da8b-49ce-bd89-1d75aa19fee6-en</p> <p> </p>

<p>Developing table for <em>Fomapan</em> films:<br> http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Ontwikkeltijden.pdf</p> <p>Developing table for non Foma films in <em>Foma chemicals</em>:<br> http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Developers%20FOMA%20-%20%20foreign%20films%207-2006.pdf</p>

<p>Prices depends where you are located. In Holland the DD-X is the same price as Kodak HC-110 but with HC-110 you can do many, many films.</p>

<p>Yes, it is an expensive one shot developer, especially made for their Delta film technology. Cheaper alternatives are FX-37/FX-39 from Geoffrey Crawley or Tetenal Ultrafin T- Plus.</p>

<p>Exactly, no wetting agent in a developer due to foam building.</p>

For color IR there is no really good source anymore. A pity.....

You can find Efke IR820C for a reasonable price, SFX-200 or Rollei IR-400(S). I have a few IR films in offer, 135-36 exp. 8-2015 for Eur. 3,95.

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8675/16138714385_c5ea837303_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="443" />It depends which developer you are using. I can recommend Beutler or FX-1 for this film: 1+1+8 dilution.</p> <p>Here an example of the Efke 25 (E.I. 32). Both films (Efke 25-50) are Orthopan films so Red not very sensible. Hence the higher resolution of these films too.</p> <p> </p>

It is Efke / Fotokemika 50 film. Only with a better Q.C. system for Maco Photo products. The film was produced till 2005 for Maco. Later Maco used the Efke 25 under Rollei PAN 25 label. Also a perfect film with better Q.C. and produced till 2012 when Efke stopped all production in Croatia. A pity because this was a really nice iso 25 film. Fortunately I still have a few bricks of this iso 25 film in the freezer.

A pre-soak has advantages when using a deep layer ultra fine grain developer or when developing on a higher temperature, 24C or for color 100F/37,8C. Normally in a Jobo rotary processor and not all developers are suitable for this type of development.

<p>You can go for the old Agfa/OrWo A-300 formulae. A non-rapid fixer and fix approx. around 10 minutes for an APX-25 film. (Twice the Clear time).</p>

<p>A pre-soak is normally not advised either by Ilford, Kodak, Fuji or Foma. A wetting agent will cause foam building and probably you will have more problems in development then using without.</p>

<p>Demineralised water with a minimum dose of wetting agent. Very good wetting agents are from Rollei/CG, Rollei (super) wetting agent, Amaloco H10 or Tetenal Mirasol.</p>

I won't classify myself as high end wedding photographer but i still shoot sometimes on film for commercial wedding photography.