Fotohuis RoVo

Agfa APX (new) 100/400 films from LUPUS are filled with Kentmere 100/400 emulsion from Harman/Ilford.

And for Harman/Ilford you can count on it too. They have a new owner and this company will see the money too.

Kodak 5222 Double-X in bulk can be an excellent alternative for Tri-X 400 in bulk because this film has gone sky high in Europe: 30,5m/100ft > Eur. 150,-. It is even much more expensive then 18x regular 135-36 Tri-X films. An average price is now Eur. 5,50 for Tri-X 400 135- 36. Are they crazy at Kodak Alaris? OK Fuji will also have another 15% price hick next month. Acros 100 in 135-36 is going over Eur. 6,50.

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/709/21459716838_04afbe9091_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="508" /></p> <p>Here my test chart Kodak 5222 XX: E.I. 200 in HC-110 (B).<br> Bulk film is still interesting if you can buy it for Eur. 1/m - Eur. 1,30/m ($0,93/m - $1,20/m) . So all Fomapan films in 30,5/100ft have still a good price. Kodak 5222 Double-X (35mm perforated, 7222 is the 16mm cine version) is going on 122m/400ft only but sometimes you have S/E which you can buy in above price range. Concerning the extreme high price of Tri-X 400 in 30,5m/400ft it is a good alternative for this Kodak film.</p> <p> </p>

<p>An interesting film, especially for wet printing. Kodak 5222 XX. Show me your results! Please add some technical data with it. (<em>E.I. , type developer, scan from film or wet print</em>).<br> This is the film:<br> http://motion.kodak.com/motion/products/production/Black_And_White_Films/5222.htm</p>

Any Rodinal type developer will give more grain but it also depends on your own processing, keep the grain under control by minimizing the agitation with this developer. In the mean time sold as: Adonal (Adox), Paranol-S (Tetenal), R09 o.s. (Compard/Rollei), Fomadon R09 (Foma). I would certainly recommend HC-110 for both fims, Tri-X 400 and Tmax(TMY-2). Less grain then Rodinal but also less sharpness. When using these films in 35mm format my first choice would be HC-110.

<p>In principle all clear layer B&W films you can develop for B&W slides. So apart FP100R: Silvermax (Adox), Retro 80(S),400(S), SP200 (Rollei). But these films you can also develop for regular B&W negatives. It is depending on the chemistry, for slides: Second exposure and second development. These films can also have more density, so easier generating a higher contrast. So for regular negatives you will need a (special) lower contrast type developer. Supplied with the Silvermax and also valid for the Rollei Aviation type films (Aviphot). The last films are very sharp, have extended Red sensitivity (hence you can do I.R. photography with them too).</p>

Indeed set the iso on the camera on 250 (and expose on that). The whole developing time is depending on the temperature hence the standard (20C table) and the agitation. More agitation means quickly a denser negative but with Rodinal type developers means to many agitation less sharpness and worse: more grain. So the trick with Rodinal type developers is to minimize the agitation. Because this developer gives enhanced grain in 35mm it is normally used for the slow- and medium speed fims (iso 25-100). In my Photonet gallery some of R09 and Fomapan 200 creative film in 35mm. Tack sharp, minimum agitation (and Leica glass).

<p>Yes it is fundamentally the same as R09/Rodinal. In fact Tetenal is producing it for almost all different brands (Compard, Adox, etc.).</p> <p>However with any high speed film R09/Rodinal/ Paranol S you will end with a lot of grain and speed loss.<br> So for HP5+ expose on E.I. 200 - 250 and start with a standard dilution of 1+50. But it is better to use a slow- or medium speed film with Rodinal, especially in 35mm format.</p>

<p>Increasing speed before exposure: <strong>Hypersensitation.</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong><br /></strong>It is called gas-hypering or hypering. This technique was used with Kodak 2415 Tech Pan. Before exposure the film is soaked in a forming gas mixture of 92% Nitrogen and 8% Hydrogen for several hours. The effect can last for years if the film is properly stored.<br> This techniques was especially used for astronomers. Instead of several hours in exposure the film is exposed in about some minutes.<br> It is also not working well with modern films.</p> <p>This technique was first published by Everhart in 1981.</p>

<p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5727/20573520811_ff8352cfbf_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="634" /><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/274/19777793923_1def03cbab_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="628" /></p> <p>About nice regular grain which you could get with the old version of Tri-X 400.</p> <p>Foma just introduced a new film: Foma <em>Retropan 320 Soft</em>.<br> Retro: Indeed, a lot of grain.<br> Soft: A lower type contrast film.<br> Just an example E.I. 640 in Microphen 1+0. And an example of this new film E.I. 320 in HC-110 (B). This <em>Retropan 320 Soft</em> film will be available in 35mm and sheet film. For real pronounced grain I will do a R09/Rodinal test too.</p>

<p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5727/20573520811_ff8352cfbf_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="508" /></p> <p><em>Retropan 320 Soft</em> E.I. 640 in Microphen 1+0 12:00 minutes (20C).<br> In contrast even still pretty low but now you have really grain.</p> <p>My attempt in Diafine 3+3 E.I. 640 was not successful. With this developer sometimes you can get 2/3F stop extra speed but not with this <em>Retropan 320 Soft</em> film. It stays approxemately on box speed so you will end with an underexposed negative and a loss of 3 zones in the high lights.</p> <p> </p>

<p><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/19124407526_251a092cfa_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="478" /> <br> <img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/274/19777793923_1def03cbab_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="503" /></p> <p><em>Retropan 320 Soft</em> E.I. 320 in HC-110 (B) for 8:30 minutes (20C). Split Grade print. Zorki-6 + Industar-50 F/3,5-50mm. Like most my F.S.U. gear, from Ukraine. Refurbished and C.L.A. maybe again for another 50 years .......<br> My wife Nataliya (also from Ukraine). :)</p> <p> </p>

Exactly: Film fix you have to use 1+4. All regular cubical type film will then fixed in 5 minutes, only some Tgrain type films need a bit longer fix time. When using an Acid stop bath of 2% Acitic Acid or 1,5% (15g/ltr.) Citric Acid the capacity of the fixer is also maximized.

<p>Stand development will give you with most developers a large semi-compensating effect. At the end the developing process automatically stops. The disadvantages: Problems in uneven development (depending on the choice of developer) and you are loosing sharpness.</p>

<p>The Agfa Rondinax was already mentioned. A too old system but also the newer Jobo 2400 daylight tank was not really succesful.<br /> Apart that you will need 450ml of fluid for one 35mm film.<br /> Better is a regular Jobo 1510 tank (250ml fluid volume) or the mentioned AP tank.</p>

<p>No, in 35mm and sheet film only.</p>

<p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/535/20215776072_915d539185_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="491" /></p> <p>A first result. Retropan 320 Soft E.I. 320 in Rollei Supergrain 1+9. A scan from a split grade print.<br /> First impression:<br /><br /> 1. This is a real grainy film, even a bit more then Foma Fomapan 400 film.<br /> 2. The film is drying absolute flat.<br /> 3. Effective film speed around iso 320-400, a push development is possible but not much higher then iso 640-800.<br /> 4. There are no markers or index on the film strip. It is completely blanc. This is from a bulk 30,5m/100ft film.<br /> 5. This emulsion looks like the in 2001 discontinued <em>Fomapan T800 film</em>. I have to dig up that data from 1997-2001 but at that time I had no densitometer.</p> <p> </p>

<p>The "problem" with a V35 with diffusion box is the lost production of the necessary HLX bulb: Philips 13139 75Watt. In time it will be impossible to find it anymore. However you have always an exit to the Heiland V35 cold LED light source, with of without Split Grade module.<br> http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=506&language=en</p>

<p>Kentmere 100/400 are the cheap films from Harman/Ilford. They are also used in the Agfa Photo boxes APX-100/400 "new" from Lupus.<br> About Foma: I am only using the Fomapan professional films. Indeed the iso 400 version has a lack of speed, in most developers iso 200-250 only. However I am very interested in the new <em>Retropan 320 soft</em> from Foma. This film should be suitable for push processing according the Foma specs. It is a brand new film and not everywhere available yet.</p>

<p>Develop it according the Efke 50 specs.</p>

<p>In Europe Tetenal is producing almost all chemicals for Kodak, Ilford, Adox, Amaloco, Compard, Rollei, Moersch so for them it is also no problem to sell a Rodinal (Clone) under their own label. If you have a receipt and a minimum of approx. 5000 bottles they can do it for you. And if you need less bottles they can make the stuff and e.g. Compard can refill it for you, even in very small quantities.</p>

<p><em>Retropan 320 soft</em> is a low contrast type film especially when combined with the Foma Retro special developer. When pushing you will get normal contrast so this film can be used from iso 640-1000 and will fill up the gap for Neopan 1600. The film is in pre-production now. As already said the film has been made on 125um for 35mm, available first in 17m and 30,5m/100ft and on 175um sheet film format.<br> Take notice that Neopan 1600 was available on 35mm only.</p>

<p>I just did the re-calibration check with my TRDZ. Within the whole range 0-4 in 0,005 logD spec.</p>

<p>Well I decided 10 years ago to buy a Leica M7. Second hand and 0,58 for the 28mm Elmarit in full overview. I like W.A. lenses so in the mean time a C.V. SWH-15mm-M, Elmarit 21mm and a C.V. zoom VF 15-35mm easy in use.<br> Apart from the standard Summicron 50mm a Summarit 75mm and further is not wise to do with a 0,58mm version.</p> <p>Comparing to my Cosina Voigtländer Bessa III 667 which has the best finder I have ever worked with the M7 is still very good and the quality of manufacturing is extremely well done. However I like my FSU RF cameras too. A fraction of those prices and with some Jupiter lenses THE best price - quality you can ever buy!</p>