Fotohuis RoVo

Just filter it (Coffee filter). It will be OK.

The 1 ltr. HC-110 I have using up half and squeeze. Then I take a few glass bottles to split it in 3x150ml. If it takes 2-3 years it is not any problem at all.

<p><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2136/13042682963_0616b31446_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="645" /></p> <p><em>RPX-25 in R09/Rodinal 1+50.</em></p> <p> </p>

Rollei RPX-25 is a same type of film then the Retro 80(S) Rollei film. Only half speed. Expose Retro 80 (S) on iso 50, develop in A-49 1+1 or AM74 1+15 or Rollei Supeergrain 1+15. For the RPX-25 expose on E.I. 25 or 32. Develop in FX- 1/Beutler 1+1+10 or R09/Rodinal 1+50/100. My test in Supergrain 1+15 was also pretty good. Rollei Retro 80 (S) is Agfa Gevaert Aviphot 80 E1, a bit contrastly aviation type film, hence the semi-compensating type developers or lower contrast type developers. Instead of FX-1/Beutler TDLC-103 is also very good but this developer is limited in life span due to the Sodiumbicarbonate. You have to make it fresh.

<p>You can use this Fuji pro 400H in a range from iso 100-800 with some small modification in the C-41 development. It is a professional C-41 film exactly on the right colors when keeping the film cool and expose before expiration date.</p>

<p>http://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/easy-film-developers</p> <p>Without any problem. The <em>PC-TEA</em> is a very good type Ascorbic Acid developer. Fine grain, sharpness, almost like the old <em>Promicrol</em> from May & Baker.</p>

<p>Thanks, Larry. Within three months I am going to Ukraine. But first I have an operation on my neck and shoulder.</p>

<p>This is <em>the latest Fomapan 400 data sheet</em>. A few minor changes like the <em>Clear Polyester layer</em> is changed in the text etc.<br> http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-400</p> <p>On the Foma web site you can select Czech, Russian, English, French, Spanish, Chinese language. For me very easy: Only Chinese and Spanish is a problem for me :)</p> <p>Best regards, na shledanou, paka paka, cordialement, groetjes (is Dutch BTW),</p> <p>Robert / Роберт</p> <p> </p>

<p>If you produce your own film curve with any particular developer you can calculate the exact film speed yourself. But of course this is already a lot of work to do.</p>

<p>Well the manufacturer (Foma, Czech Republic) shows in their own data sheet a speed enhanced developer and their own <em>Fomadon reference developer</em> iso 320 for this Fomapan 400 film. And for their own <em>Fomadon Excel W27</em> (Xtol compatible) iso 250.</p>

You are welcome!

<p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/15166498695_6b0b2fe3f7_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="496" /></p> <p>Depending a bit on the type of developer you should expose between iso 200-320.<br> Here an example (120 roll film 6x7cm) of FP400 E.I. 250 in <em>Rollei Supergrain</em>, a type developer like <em>AM74</em> (Amaloco) which you more or less can compare with <em>Kodak Tmax</em> developer (semi-compensating, box speed).</p> <p>In the Fomapan 400 data spec you can directly see that even in the speed enhancing type developers like Microphen the film speed is limited till iso 320 or iso 250 Fomadon Excel W27/Xtol.<br> http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/F_pan_400_en.pdf</p> <p>Best regards,</p> <p>Robert (Dutch Foma distributor)</p> <p> </p>

For our European readers maybe interesting that I am offering the PC-TEA from Patrick Gainer as ready made 50ml stock solution. "made in Ukraine" transported and distributed by Fotohuis the Netherlands. Now only keep the Russians out of that country!

Foma and OrWo are selling bulk film for about almost half price then Ilford/Harman. At least the mentioned prices in W. Europe main land. Compare FP4+/Delta 100 with FP100/200 and OrWo Filmotec UN54. Or HP5+/Delta 400 with FP400 and OrWo Filmotec N74+. Even Rollei RPX-100/400 are much cheaper hence these are also Harman products. And I am not talking about cheap Arista EDU films but premium Foma quality Fomapan Professional B&W films. When going to Filmotec 122m/400ft assy the distance is even 50% in price difference. Kodak double X is not very cheap overhere.

<p>PEC-12, IPA</p>

In general use for all Aviation type films a lower contrast working developer. Or a semi-compensating type developer. Best results I got with AM74 1+15 or Rollei High Speed (OEM from Amaloco), the new Rollei Supergrain (made by SPUR an AM74 copy 1+15), A-49 1+1 (Calbe/Adox) or LP Doku LC / Film Low Gamma / Rollei Low Contrast (Udo Raffay, Labor Partner 1+4 or 1+5), TDLC-103 1+0 (a modified Beutler where Soda is replaced by Sodiumbicarbonate) or Caffenol (well you have different versions to make).

Rollei (S)uperpan 200 and Rollei Retro 400(S) are exactly the same Aviphot 200 E1 emulsions from Agfa Gevaert. In most developers iso 160-200. E1 means 100um used both for 35mm and 120 roll film format and (S) stands for (S)ynthetic clear Polyester layer. Another version is the Retro 80(S), Aviphot 80 E1. What is in the RPX-25 is not really clear even to me. But it is also thin clear Polyester layer and Gevaert is also making an Aviphot 40 E1 type emulsion. Another posibility is OrWo Filmotec who has also made the new Ortho 25 film for Rollei-Maco. In principle they have the recept of OrWo NP15, which they did already for the Rollei PAN 25 version 1 in 2006. Later Efke / Fotokemika made a best quality Efke 25 for Rollei Pan 25 2nd version, up from 2008 or so. But all OEM films stopped in August 2012 when Fotokemika in Croatia ceased all production.

<p>Kodak TMY-2 and Rollei Retro 400(S). Last one is an Agfa Aviation type film, Aviphot 200 E1 so in fact an iso 200 film where Kodak is a real iso 400 film with the latest Tmax 400.</p>

<p>V800 and V850 Epson scanners have glass inserts, that means it is a type of plastic which gives of course more dust problems.<br> Alternative betterscanning.com<br> Or let make your own ANR. In Europe you can order them by Kienzle in Germany. This enlarger producer is cutting glass and plexi (for their fiber washers) themselves.</p>

<p>Since end 2007 I have an Epson V500. It will scan multiple photos in auto mode so it will be rather quick.<br> I have done already hundreds of old family photos. The most work will be the old slides which I have to dupilicate or scan which is taking much more time.</p>

<p>My last Optima 400 (Agfa) C-41 bulk is in the freezer. When Agfa Photo went in bankruptcy (2005) it was Eur. 9,- for 30,5m/100ft exp. 2007 (when you cut straight it is 18 films) . It is coming to an end now.</p> <p>Last week I was at Fuji in Tilburg. They are selling out production materials via an auction. I just found there a box of 256 Fuji Superia 100 films. Even not expired.<br> What do you think about €0,43 for each 35mm film. You can not even think about bulk loading .....</p>

<p>The Jobo is a professional system. Hence the lot of spare parts available, different drums 15xx/25xx/28xx, expert drums 30xx and an elevator. Further the temperature control is very precise and suitable for professional C-41 and E-6 development. They even have a new processor the Jobo CPP-3.</p>

<p>Both HC-110 dil.H and R09/Rodinal 1+50 are doing very well with Fomapan 100 / Arista EDU 100. In R09 you have 1/3rd F stop speed loss but that is with most films the case in R09.</p>

<p>A Jobo mistral is a föhn with a HEPA filter. If you are in a hurry you can dry the films within 10 minutes.<br> If you are not in a hurry you can dry the films at room temperature in several hours. Anyhow you need a dust free place.<br> Drying films at room temperature has the advantage of less curl of any film.</p> <p>I am doing small commercial processing but from the FotohuisRoVo web shop, so people are sending in films by envelope and the negatives are sent back by airpack envelope in a transparent sleeve. Turnaround time approx. a week so it doesn't matter the films are drying overnight. Less curl, less dust problems for both C-41 and B&W film development.</p>

<p>It is exactly like John Shriver says. For the regular non hardening rapid fixers you can use the Ilford method.<br> An hypo clearing agent is very effective for washing out fiber based photo papers. Here you can reduce the washing time from 60 minutes to 20 minutes when using a H.C.A.<br> For film and using above mentioned fixers it is a waste of money and effort.</p>