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<p>ah, i thought you might wanna see some stones, john :)<br> awesome image reply!</p> <p>see you mext wednesday, cheers</p>

<p>i had this open in the browser and happened to look at it again right now.<br> the highlights on the lower shot are completely blown.</p> <p>on high iso settings this happens really fast.<br> try to expose for the light, and then correct to fit the scene.<br> sacrifice detail if you must, but not too much if you want to actually use the shot or sell it.<br> ruined detail might be a problem then.<br> exposures can change fast, but it is possible to manage all this with some practice.</p> <p>how do i know that those shots are out of focus? well..i made quite a number of high iso photos that were out of focus too :D</p>

<p>glad to have helped you.<br> all the best<br> cheers</p>

<p>try it like this</p> <p>put something infront of the camera, very close, make three shots on tripod with high iso<br /> a small toy as close as possible and the background 5-10 meters away, if possible some stuff in the background but not too plain and not to deistorted, a bookshelf maybe.<br /> good, even light if possible<br /> make a tack sharp image of the figure<br /> one slightly off in focus<br /> one completely off in focus</p> <p>look what it does to your edges and detail and look at the rendering of the off focus elements.</p> <p>exactly what happened here in your two photos</p>

<p>first shot:<br /> Model: NIKON D7000;<br />ExposureTime: 1/60 s;<br />FNumber: f/4;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 1250;<br />ExposureProgram: Aperture priority;<br />ExposureBiasValue: 0/6;</p> <p>second shot:</p> <p>Model: NIKON D7000;<br />ExposureTime: 1/80 s;<br />FNumber: f/4;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 1250;<br />ExposureProgram: Manual;<br />ExposureBiasValue: 0/6;</p> <p>the shot below is not in focus, the first shot, the eye is not sharp all across either.<br /> you can see that on the hair of the nose and the edge of the eye (lines of any sort give this away real fast).</p> <p>rendering off focus stuff the high iso starts to look like this real fast.</p> <p>concerning the autofocus stuff..<br /> use the af-l button on the back.</p> <p>for shots like this use continues autofocus. keep track of the eye.<br /> try to focus it in a way that the focus point lies in the middle of the eye in the 3d dimensinal room, giving it sharpnes from the aperture before and after the focus point, thus getting the eye in focus.</p> <p>apart from not beeing really sharp, i think the iso looks alright.<br> because of sharpness it does look different.</p>

<p>he is talking about those two shots</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17983403-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="344" /></p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17983401-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="338" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>four or three weeks ago i was taking a hike with a friend.<br> here she is, in the middle of green stones.</p> <p>nikon d3, 24-70 @ 24 f2.8</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17979454-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /></p>

<p>i had two sigmas i did enjoy very much.<br /> on a d1x though.</p> <p>sigma 300 f4 apo <br /> sigma 400 f5.6 apo - photozone: http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/306-sigma-af-400mm-f56-hsm-apo-macro-test-report--review</p> <p>they were also labled "macro" which in that case ment you could focus closer as with other 300mm lenses. years ago i had some shots of animals with that lenses here on ph.net. <br /> on a d1x they were indeed far from bad.</p> <p>here you can buy them for around 300 euros if you find one.<br /> test one if you can get one.</p>

<p><br /> i only use sb 900 and sb910 and when i set it to rear on the d3, it works as rear.<br /> i dont know about the d300 but i am sure it is quite the same.<br /> if not, try this:<br> set the sb 900 to optical slave mode..su-4. <br> <br /> su-4 mode: press ok, scroll to the custom function menu, go to su -4, hit ok, set it to "on", hit ok. press exit.</p> <p>it will fire when the pop up on your d300s does.<br /> you have to turn the red part of the flash towards the camera as there are light sensitve cells in it<br /> that will tell the sb900 flash to fire when they see the flash comming from the d300s.<br /> dont be scared, your rear curtain sync is safe, as light travels at 300000km/s :)</p> <p>if you set the d300s to master (nikon cls) the d300 should only fire off a very small flash not illuminating anything but talking to the sb900.<br /> therefore only one flash, the sb900, will fire.<br /> the flash of the master is not illumnating, even if you can see it.<br /> might make a small reflection if you are too close and set weirdly but i only had this once on a wet surface.</p> <p>Set flash to m<br /> camera to m<br /> master too</p> <p>turn the sb 900 off, get the camera to where you want it in m without any flash at all, bring in one flash, adjust, bring in the second flash, adjust.</p> <p>hope this helped.<br /> have fun.</p> <p>cheers</p> <p> </p>

<p>yeah, i met a pres photographer in germany when putin was there who said he has like 500k on each of his d3 without having them replaced once.</p> <p>however, statistcly speaking that is sheer luck</p> <p>http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/nikon_d3.htm</p> <p>do not know about the hardfacts behind that wonderfull statistics but it seems quite right.</p>

<p>shutterspeed?<br> too high fps?</p> <p>with your contatcs cleaned and batteries checked, emptied card</p> <p>set the camera to A<br> set the flash to TTL</p> <p>take a photo in an controlable envoironment.<br> no high contrasty situations or into the sun whatever blabla.<br> take a shot of your cat in your living room or the books on your shelf.</p> <p>what does it do?<br> what is the shutterspeed?<br> is it abouve 1/250</p> <p>if so<br> go to menu e1 Flash sync speed<br> and set it to 1/250, it might also had been on 1/250(Auto FP) ?</p> <p>redo the photo.</p> <p>set the camera to 6 fps, the flash dialed down for +1ev (saves power speeds up recycle-time)<br> shoot away.<br> there will be a point when the photos get darker and suddenly flash wont fire at all.<br> but it should be a decreasing in power that is not linear but even in getting more and mroe dark.</p> <p>if that works too, go to M mode and start at the top.</p> <p>if nothing else works i would recomment resetting camera and flash to fabrication status and then try this.</p> <p>should be working alright.</p> <p>if you reset everything, tried this and didnt manage to get even results..go to the shop you got it from and have<br> them try it on one of their cameras.</p> <p>good luck</p> <p>edit:<br> you can always sear for errors till youve gone crazy.<br> if you test it with that what i said above and encounter a problem, photos would be really great.</p> <p>you can upload the photos to photo.net and then hide the folder frompublic.<br> with rightclick and copy adress and paste it in here using the link symbol you can show us what you did and that would propbably help us to hunt down the ghost that is in one of your machines faster.</p> <p> </p>

<p>handholding 600mm is possible.<br /> handholding 400 too.<br /> but you really need propper technique.</p> <p>all together i found it to be quite a problem.</p> <p>if you have high standards, which i do, you even end up beeing unsatisfied with a shot at 85. it can happen so fast.<br /> so going to a 600 and shoot it handhelt...well..print those images to 100x80cm and you will see what i am talking about.</p> <p>by all means, my good sir, please do get a tripod with a ballhead or gimbal thingy. it will improve your photos sharpness highly.</p> <p>i wasnt so verymuch impressed by the 80-400..not at all. <br /> so to fight the tele lens issue i decided to take on a job on a regualr basis to get to the 200-400.<br /> ill have it in november.<br /> starting then you will never hear of me again ;)</p> <p>edit:<br> concerning the 80-400.</p> <p>it may be a personal thing but i felt it wasnt as good as the 100-400 from canon.<br> it was heavier also, and just didint seem as sharp to me.</p> <p>if youre thinking about getting something in that price class you might aswell consider the tamron and sigma 150-600<br> lenses.<br> sounds like a good solution to me as it is to many and therefore it has to be okay, hasnt it?</p> <p> </p>

<p>not knowing if it has the buffer upgrade or any other faults, the price is good.<br> here in europe you would get a camera in mint conditions,...well,...with that shutter count for around 1000-1500 euros. nearer to 1.5k though.</p> <p>enjoy your d3 :)<br> cheers</p>

<p>lol ..</p> <p> </p>

<p>yes it is.<br /> i take alot of pictures. <br /> i can't today as all my batteries are emtpy and someone, who shall not be named, did not charge batteries yesterday.<br /> shuttercount mainly comes from concerts and demonstrations, also sports and animals. lots of testing and generally going crazy.<br /> i need to improve, so i take images everyday, sometimes from the same thing and try to do it differently.<br /> some might say this is madness, to me it is training as a digital camera allows me to do so.<br /> the only problem is the editing. so i am a big fan of "get the shot in camera"...some might call this lazy.<br /> to sum things up, i am a madman with a camera who is lazy when it comes to editing..clarity +15, exposure +-1ev, contrast +15, reducing highlights..and whats that colour thing that makes colours more saturated but doesnt as it is not the saturation?, export...it's safe to say i hardly got any idea of editing whatsoever, unless it is for prints..</p> <p>however, the d3 is still clicking.</p>

<p>well..my current shutter count on the d3 says 283k. second shutter.<br> not the last one...going to be my backup...<br> i am not so very sure but people that do not work as a photographer usually do not tend to go through 170k something photos in one year, at least as far as i came to see it.</p> <p>so in that respect, if build in flash is interesting (faster way to learn flash systems off camera and cheaper too) and the lesser weight i would go for the d700.</p> <p>i would go for the d3 if speed is needed. (faster shutter release and fps rate)<br> but then only..</p> <p> </p>

<p>@kylee i sent you a pm concerning your question</p>

<p>solid advice.</p> <p>other than that, if you are interested in some technical stuff feel free to check this site:<br> http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/779-nikon175528dx</p> <p>i tested quite some lenses based upon what they wrote on this page and they were never wrong, well so far :)</p> <p>enjoy your new kit!</p>

<p>:)<br /> good one. i laughed.<br /> don't know why though,..well..i didnt go down that cliff too, so i call it a win.</p>

<p>instead of posting a photo-reply on matts statement concerning winter, i will instead post something in reply to shun and wait for spring to hit and then reply to matt :D<br /> so anyway..</p> <p>i too went to a concert myself last weekend. no lecture though, just beer.<br /> band is called "parasol caravan". a stoner rock band from austria.</p> <p><strong>nikon d3, nikkor 24-70 @ 2.8, iso 2000</strong></p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17979450-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /></p>

<p>i wish i had some real problems..<br /> well i do..i lost a camera, a lens and a tripod last weekend.<br /> i will put all the pieces in a box, send it to nikon and ask them to replace my d3 with a d4s.<br /> if they don't i'll go on a nerdrage campain on some internet forum.</p> <p>other than that, do you also scream at people behind the counter if your hotdog isn't how you expected it to be?</p> <p>for using nikon that long, you must be old.<br /> how come you have such a temper, rick.</p> <p>chill, dude</p> <p> </p>