5711

<p>i had the shutter of my d3 renewed about 2 years ago.<br /> now, almost 300 000 images later, it still works.</p> <p>sell the df, get a d3 :)</p> <p>just kidding.<br /> when using any sort of equipment, you must expect that it will break.<br /> when that point comes, you usally do not know.<br /> things like this will happen again, and again, and again ...<br /> sometimes more often, sometimes less.<br /> the df is a good camera but you're supposed to take more care of it<br /> as maybe of a d3.<br /> be gentle!</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16685904-md.jpg" alt="" width="453" height="680" /></p> <p>1 d mark 3, 16-35<br> flashes like to stay out of the frame..<br> you sure know it too :)</p>

<p>alright<br /> here is another animal :) a garden spider.<br /> shot with nikon d3, micro nikkor 55 3.5 with a pk 13 attached.<br /> i used my sb 900, off camera in manual.<br /> i guess this was f11, iso 200 and maybe a 125th to 250th of a second as shutter speed. can't remember rly.<br /> sometimes i did also use high speed sync as those darn nets are beeing waved about by the wind (no wind cover).<br /> this was taken at a small stairway in the middle of the city of vienna, that is very well lit at night and near to the water. lots of bugs, lots of spiders. sometimes people stand there and look at the danube and thensuddenly you hear them scream as they realise that they got spiders crawling all over them.<br /> if you stand there at night for 15 minutes, spiders are crawling on you. at this particular shoot i did count 17 spiders on me, in about 30 minutes.<br /> i am not very fond of spiders so i go there, to get rid off the fear.<br /> it worked quite well :)<br /> <br />see you next wednesday :)</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17855980-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /></p>

<p>it looks like as if the view finder just got shaken, a small bump if you will. then the image is stable :)</p>

<p>when i got time for that, i go with lex<br /> funny thing, this actually got me some jobs..which is crazy.<br /> when i am in a hurry, or in a bad mood<br /> i usually manage to smile at them and nod.<br /> that's all.<br /> sometimes i tell them, yeah i got a big ass camera but it is the photographer who takes the photos by using a camera, not the other way round. i try to explain that equipment matters somewhat but id rather see a photo with a good idea that is not ultra sharp than a boring "perfect", standard image..<br /> i guess it is only natural that people who do not really care about photographs think, that bigger cameras do make better photos.<br /> people who own a big ass camera should know why and be able to explain it.<br /> if someone offers his or her ideas for free...well...say thank you and move on<br /> also i have to mention that kents awnser is a good one, i liked that :)</p>

<p>as far as i am concerned, this is jewelery and it is for those, who do not intend to work with it.</p> <p>i met a woman at a show once. she had a m9 with a 0.95 noctilux on around her neck.</p> <p>that's a wonderfull piece of equipment you've got there, where can i see some photos, said i.<br> she replied in shock:<br> <br />what!? i do not take pictures with this!</p> <p>i then asked her who made her the gift.<br> the guy from the gallery did.</p> <p>i rest my case</p> <p>those who work with cameras, might also want to buy something like this.<br> why the hell not</p> <p>if you fancy it and got the money..go get it, put it in a glass box and look at it.</p> <p>it is always easy to say: hey i would or would not buy it if i got the money.</p> <p>be honest..we all want it, it is a camera, but we can only afford so much<br> :))</p>

<p>no problem, david.<br> glad i could help</p> <p>the interval shooting mode looks like this<br> you set a time, when the camera is supposed to take a shot.<br> lets say...every 30 seconds<br> then you have to set the numbers of shots beeing taken</p> <p>x . xxx = shots<br> eg<br> 1 . 999 = 999 shots</p> <p>you can change the first digit between 1 and 9<br> everything else but 1 will have the camera take whatever amount you set as shots directly after each other</p> <p>for example:</p> <p>30 seconds<br> 2 . 999 = 1998 shots</p> <p>the camera will now take 2 shots every 30 seconds in succession.</p> <p>this changes the style the timelapse look like, and if you change it to 9x999=8991 shots you will end up with 9 photos every 30 seconds.<br> do test this, it can look pretty awesome.</p> <p>please keep in mind that this will not work if the amount of photos taken in succession succeed the 30 seconds interval.</p> <p>if your exposure is longer than 30 seconds, you need a programmable remotecontroll<br> <br />the number of shots count down on the top display and you just have to be quick with resetting the timer.</p> <p>so do test this before hand and when you reach like 50 shots or something, just reset it during the time youve set.<br> i usually do it like this</p> <p>stay in the interval timershooting menu<br> switch off the camera<br> turn it back on, hit menu, and say restart</p> <p>there you go, everything you need to know explained :9<br> enjoy timelapse, ruin your shutter<br> i did <br> haha</p> <p>so far</p>

<p>very nice photographs here.<br /> i am a nikon guy now (again, jumped boat twice) but i do have some canon shots left :)</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16685896-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /></p> <p>Model: Canon EOS-1D Mark III; Lens: 17-40 @ 17mm<br />ExposureTime: 15/1 s;<br />FNumber: f/22;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 100;<br /> <br />published in national geographic, oct. 2012</p>

<p>what came to my mind is, that you might have a lens profile for it using auto correct.</p> <p>do you?</p>

<p>1.8 G<br /> <a href="http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/631-nikkorafs5018ff?start=1">http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/631-nikkorafs5018ff?start=1</a></p> <p>"The Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.8 G is a very solid performer that delivers very good to excellent sharpness across most of the FX frame.<br /> Typical for a fast prime there is some vignetting wide open as well as bokeh fringing. CAs and distortion are moderate. The bokeh quality is not stellar, but quite good for this lens class.<br /> The build quality is good and in line with other Nikon lenses in this segment. Thanks to a silent wave drive, AF action is silent and reaonably fast (for the typical usage of such a lens).<br /> Compared to its predecessor (the Nikkor AF-D 50mm f/1.8) the new AF-S lens delivers better border resolution and improved bokeh, but has gained some weight and especially size. The better performance also comes along with an increased price. In Europe, the lens is expected to ship in early June 2011 with an estimated street price around 200 EUR."</p> <p>1.8 D<br /> <a href="/nikon-camera-forum/The%20Nikkor%20AF-S%2050mm%20f/1.8%20G%20is%20a%20very%20solid%20performer%20that%20delivers%20very%20good%20to%20excellent%20sharpness%20across%20most%20of%20the%20FX%20frame.%20%20Typical%20for%20a%20fast%20prime%20there%20is%20some%20vignetting%20wide%20open%20as%20well%20as%20bokeh%20fringing.%20CAs%20and%20distortion%20are%20moderate.%20The%20bokeh%20quality%20is%20not%20stellar,%20but%20quite%20good%20for%20this%20lens%20class.%20%20The%20build%20quality%20is%20good%20and%20in%20line%20with%20other%20Nikon%20lenses%20in%20this%20segment.%20Thanks%20to%20a%20silent%20wave%20drive,%20AF%20action%20is%20silent%20and%20reaonably%20fast%20(for%20the%20typical%20usage%20of%20such%20a%20lens).%20%20Compared%20to%20its%20predecessor%20(the%20Nikkor%20AF-D%2050mm%20f/1.8)%20the%20new%20AF-S%20lens%20delivers%20better%20border%20resolution%20and%20improved%20bokeh,%20but%20has%20gained%20some%20weight%20and%20especially%20size.%20The%20better%20performance%20also%20comes%20along%20with%20an%20increased%20price.%20In%20Europe,%20the%20lens%20is%20expected%20to%20ship%20in%20early%20June%202011%20with%20an%20estimated%20street%20price%20around%20200%20EUR.%20">http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/623-nikkorafd5018ff?start=1</a></p> <p>"The Nikkor is indeed a typical fast normal prime: small and light-weight, affordable and, yes, bitingly sharp, at least stopped down. Wide open, the lens lacks both contrast and sharpness, especially towards the borders and corners.<br /> Typical for a fast prime there is some vignetting wide open as well as bokeh fringing. CAs are moderate and distortion actually very well controlled though. The lens' main weakness is its bokeh which is somewhat unpleasant.<br /> The build quality is good, but nothing to rave about.<br /> If you can live with the bokeh quality, the lens is no doubt a no-brainer, especially given its very moderate price. Those wanting better bokeh quality should get the newer AF-S version of the lens instead, which also offer better resolution towards the image borders and corners."</p> <p>personally i only use the 1.8 D on my f5 or f100 as a walk around lens.</p> <p>i found the resoltion towards the corners to be a bit annyoing, even on a d3.</p> <p>about that +1/3 on metering.<br /> <br />i have absolutely no idea what caused you that issue.</p> <p>do this<br /> go to manual<br /> take the same shot of the same thing with the same setting and look at 100% crops<br /> can you see a difference then?<br /> i would love to see those shots, center corner, border</p> <p> </p>

<p>yeah there are no right awnsers, i know, that is why i get so upset :)</p> <p> </p>

<p>i usually get upset by topics like this.<br /> i do care too much.</p> <p>to really confuse you f5ps vs 10 fps guys, here is a question.</p> <p>when shooting sports or wildlife of animals that move with very high speed towards the camera or to the side,<br /> one should use, depending on the camera but with the d3 it is about 5-6fps.</p> <p>do you know why this is?</p> <p>so..to get back on topic.</p> <p>it does, by no means, make sense to go for the best, newest camera out there or hope for one to be released.<br /> it is about knowing your limits and the limit sof your gear and do something with it.</p> <p>ian. is right about it.<br /> and i guess he did not want to say hey i bought new equipment 1 or 2 years after iut was released.<br /> i think he wanted to say he does not see any reason why he would upgrade.</p> <p>neither do it..<br /> those cameras pack a punch.<br /> use it ..</p>

<p>those who say that you do not need 10 fps are either purists or never had the need to use it.<br /> it is a stupid statement really, to say, hey back int he days blabla<br /> the nikon f2 was THE best camera at a certain time.<br /> no one knew what would happen if there were 10 fps<br /> ask one of those guys having shot sports with 5fps and now can use 10 fps what they do like better<br> can you remember how ppl reacted when the first dslr with film capapbilites was sold?</p> <p>catch the drift?<br> ..right..new things are scary. why not use the old stuff as technology is pure evil.</p> <p>i got myself a d3, in early 2011 and was rather pissed after i noticed that a d4 was on its way. but thats okay<br /> it is a hell of a camera.</p> <p>if you want that speed, go ahead buy one.</p> <p>or be my personal hero<br /> go buy a f5</p> <p>no1 uses them anymore and you get one for like 300 euros. which is crazy</p> <p>enjoy</p> <p>for every purpose you will find a cheapes solution and the most expensive one.<br> pick as you can and what you need</p> <p>i do not get the whining after a camera, noone actually has any need for now.</p> <p>i couldnt care less if ther was a d400, so should you.<br> go take photos,´.. please</p> <p> </p>

<p>the cheapest way to do it, and one of the best</p> <p>buy dry cleanroom wipes <br /> buy isopropanol</p> <p>and clean your sensor.<br> use a blowing tool to get rid of the big dustbunnies first.<br> hold the camera upside down so the dust will go down to the ground and not up in the air and then get back in with even more dust as company ;)<br> <br /> <br />there are different prices and you can spend much money to almost nothing.<br /> i did pay around 40 euros two years ago..still cleaning.</p> <p>you should practice on filters<br /> to clean filters btw, put them into the dishwasher and use clear rinsing agent only</p> <p>the only thing important to know, do not, never, clean rubber or thin plastic parts or foam with isopropanol. it will destroy the rubber.</p>

<p>d 700 has an interval timer shooting mode in the menu.<br> it allows you to take 999 shots in a row up to 30 seconds per exposure.<br> for the d200 i think you need a cable release with interval timer shooting options like the nikon mc 36.<br> there are wireless solutions to that too.</p>