sanjay_chaudary

<p>got my camera back from service . going to keep shooting pictures and get a feel of the body and the 45mm , 75mm shift . The 75mm shift seems trickier - never used shift lens earlier.<br> How do the 90-180 , 200mm and 165 LS compare optically with each other? I believe that the 90 -180 is quite good?<br> Planning to slowly get one of the above and practise with auto extension. It should help me decide on bellows and helicoid</p>

<p>hi, thanks for the response. The problem was the spider was on potted plant and when I extended the legs, distance between pot and camera increased.<br> Other challenge was changing the height and keeping the camera balanced on the center post, when center post was perpendicular to ground. adjusting length of post , almost caused the camera to tip over. </p>

<p>Hi, I was trying to take photo of spider in a web . <br> The spider was approximately 1 to 1.5 feet above the ground on a potted plant.<br> <br />I have a 100mm macro lens. I tried using the center column of manfrotto 055 x pro-b by pulling it out and positioning center column parallel to the ground. I spread out tripod legs (thereby reducing tripod height) . I attached a ballhead to the tripod center column and eos -3 / eos 30 camera to the ballhead. I also have a macro focussing rail.<br> The tripod with legs in folded position is approximately 2 feet tall. The camera was in portrait position and perpendicular to the ground. I found it difficult and awkward to adjust the camera. <br> I was thinking maybe a small tripod might help for low angle shots. <br> 1) Would a small tripod be helpful and can you suggest a good model?<br> 2) what are other options other than tripod?<br> 3) In macro, is ballhead useful or pan-tilt head useful?<br> 4) does one use focussing rail with ballhead or without it?</p> <p>thanks all and happy new year</p>

<p>thanks a lot. I think I will stick to the existing auto extension tube set. happy new year guys</p>

<p>if you are in US, you may check with keh.com. also check pentaxforums.com . one of users there may be able to help with info</p>

<p>I got my serviced pentax and it looks like the PS timer issue may be sorted out. The AE metering seems to be problematic.<br> I tried changing the battery. There are no exposure settings visible in the viewfinder. I am getting perror . It stays even if I turn off the camera and sometimes even when AE finder is removed.<br> <br />In the viewfinder, I see an asterisk ( star) , letter S , Flash indicator .I see the blocks betwwen flashing. It worked earlier before I sent the body for repair.<br> The AE prism finder did feel a little loose on one side, after attaching. I did get it to sit snugly once, but did not figure out how I got it to do that. I normally leave it on, but had to remove the prism finder for sending the body for service. <br> <br />thanks a lot</p>

<p>Hi, thanks for the response. I already have the auto extension set of 3 from pentax. Will the helicoid be of any use, taking this into consideration and is there any advantage?</p>

<p>Hmm, thanks. There are not many reviews on the 500mm on the net. I read a bit on auto bellows and one of user here said that there was a lot of light loss while using it. Is that true?<br> I am wondering when auto bellows would be better and when the helicoid extension tube would be better</p>

<p>Hi, thanks for the response. I am not sure if I can handle the weight of 600 mm lens. <br> 1) On the getting high magnification shots with 67 being challenge- in what way do you think it is a challenge ? The 800 may be quite heavy, apart from being expensive. I am not sure what other equipment I would need to use it in terms of tripods , ballhead .<br> 2) The 500mm seems lighter than the 400 ,600 and 800. what f/stop does 500 need to be stopped down and with converter what f stop would I need?<br> <br />3) jeff, are you using the pentax auto bellow? is there a ringlite for pentax 67?<br> <br />I might have carried a maximum of 5 to 5.5 kg of equipment in camera backpack that is approx 11 pounds. My heaviest lens is 1.25 kg ~ 2.75 pounds. I will need to see how easy / difficult it will to be handle those lenses.<br> <br /><br /></p> <p> </p>

<p>1) guess the 165 LS will be suitable for work with flash ? <br /><br />2) In 35mm, I shoot more of wildlife ( birds and animals. bird sanctuaries in proximity ). I also shoot <br /> nature (flowers , less of insects). I use a 400mm 5.6 lens with 1.4 extender.<br /><br /> I was thinking of pentax 67 500mm in MF, but do not see many reviews on it. I am not sure if this lens is optically that good from the few reviews and whether 1.4 or 2x extender would be good for it . Carrying it around and the 10 frames might be a problem.<br /> <br /> any thoughts on optical quality of this lens?<br /><br />3) I also shoot architecture - monuments , older buildings, temples churches : exteriors,elevation , murals , paintings, intricate work <br /><br />4) I shoot a little bit of landscapes , when I can get subjects. Portraits - occassional pictures of my sisters kids and family.<br /> I am not much of a portrait shooter. </p>

<p>I have the auto extension tube set. would that work with the 200? would the 200 be useful for insects ?<br> If I were not looking at macro, what kind of subjects would the 165 LS , 90-180 and 200 be suitable for?</p>

<p>Thanks Steve. I am quite new to medium format - just shot two slide rolls so far. yet to get hang of f numbers and depth of field in medium format. had problem with camera and waiting return from keh after service.<br> Do you have an online gallery that I could look at ?<br> I have the 45mm and the 75mm shift - landscape and architecture. In 35mm, I have mostly zooms - 17-40 mm ( architecture , landscape) , 28 - 105mm (general , portraits), 100 - 300mm. Primes - I use 400mm for wildlife with extender , 100mm macro - not too often, 50mm - rarely used.</p> <p>I use the 105mm end of 28-105 mm to take close photos of sculpted panels in temples ( approximately 2-3 inches in height ). In this context, what do you suggest ?<br> In Medium format - 6x7 what subjects would the 200 lens be useful for ? would 180mm be sufficient for insects?</p>

<p><br /> thanks for all the replies .<br /><br /> 1) have manfrotto 490 which handles 25.6 lbs and arca swiss z-1.<br /> using arca swiss - should handle Pentax 67ii and lens .<br /> not feeling like investing in a pan-tilt head.<br /><br /> out of curiousity, what is a good pan-tilt head which can handle this weight?<br /><br /> 2) I meant to say 100mm macro, not the 105mm. Is this good for non macro photography too?<br /><br /> <br /> 3) thanks for information on life size converter being included.<br /><br /> 4) I think I will defer the autobellows purchase for time being and take a call after I shoot more photos.<br /><br /> 5) what subjects would the 200mm ,165ls ,135 mm , 90-180 be good for ?<br /> I am also thinking of a portrait/people lens. <br /><br /> 6) will the 135mm be suitable for non-macro work?<br /> </p>

<p>Hi,<br> The bulb part seems odd. When you press shutter halfway , provided the camera is on, the exposure information will be displayed . If it is not pressed, the LCD will not display any exposure information ( shutter speed , exposure stops).<br> <br />I hope this helps. I currently do not have my camera with me to check further. where did you buy your camera ?<br> <br />you might also want to check pentax camera forums</p>

<p>Hi,<br />I recently got Pentax 67ii camera. I shot a bit of macro in 35mm, but not much , with canon 100mm macro.<br /><br />1) I am wondering which macro lens to buy : 105mm macro or 135mm macro for pentax 67.<br /> I have shot pictures of flowers and some objects ( model cars) and few insects. I still need to figure out on how to get better magnification for insects in my photos. <br> <br />2) Do we need flash for macro? Will the 1/30th sync speed of pentax 67ii be a problem for macro<br /><br />3) Is pentax auto bellows useful and is it difficult to find? what would be a reasonable price for it?<br /> <br />4)I have a manfrotto 055 xpro b tripod, which handles 15 pounds approximately. will this be ok, with<br /> the auto bellows?<br /><br />5) is a ballhead needed with auto bellows?<br /><br /> I currently have the 45mm and 75mm shift lens along with auto extension tubes and prism finder.</p> <p>thanks and have a nice one</p>

<p>Hi, there are a few labs in India that process medium format. I am not sure if mail is reliable for overseas. Personally, I would not depend on it. I do mail my 120 film for processing - but that is within India. Chennai to Gujarat. sorry for late response.</p>

<p>Hi, is canon speedlite 550 ex compatible with canon eos -3 ? I recently had problem attaching the flash to canon eos-3 body's hot shoe. The front pin on the flash does not get depressed with the EOS-3 , but it goes in automatically and effortlessly with canon eos 30 (elan 7e). I bought the eos-3 in used condition and the eos 30 brand new condition much earlier.<br> Is this a compatibility issue or problem with my camera ( EOS -3) or flash problem?<br> thanks in advance.<br> Sanjay</p>

<p>Hmm, adding some more info for anyone else who might look up the mamiya cabin info.<br> This projector supports 6x7 slides , 6x6 , 6x4.5 and 35mm slides . It also can hold unmounted 120/220 film strip.<br> Please note that only a single slide of 6x7 is supported by default. Other formats plus the strip are supported by using twin slide carrier or the 120 film strip carrier.<br> <br />There is also the gotschmann , supposed to have better optics (schneider lens - not personally used). The more advanced versions support tray. Gotschman projectors are heavy and expensive, compared to the mamiya cabin pro 67z . </p>

<p>Hi, thought I would add a few of my thoughts. John, which city and which country are you in?<br> <br />I have a 35mm slide projector and the projection of the slide especially fuji velvia is awesome. The scan lacks the contrast and warmth. I have seen digital projector as in office and doubt that it would be as good.<br> <br />Cardboard mounts are available on e-bay. If you are looking for plastic mounts (glass or glassless), gepe makes them and ships them out of germany. It can be ordered online through gepe's site. They are present under medium format - 54mm x 68mm in boxe containing slide mounts - glass and glassless. They come with metal masks.<br> I picked up the mamiya projector, but am yet to project as I broke bulb while bringing to India.<br> Cabin projector is available on e-bay. I found mine on bhphoto. you might want to check voltage supply. I picked up 120v version and had to buy a transformer. By default, one can place one slide in it. It requires a slide carrier tray to view more than one.<br> There is a tray for fully strip of negative , one for 6x7 , another for 6x6 and 6x5 , one for 35mm slides.<br> <br />HTH. shot my slides - waiting to get them from lab. I am in India. if you are interested, I have a group called film photography india - please feel free to join - its open to all</p>

<p>Hi, which place r u in? If you are in India , I may be able to help</p>

<p>Hi Steve, I pressed the shutter button fully down and the shutter opens and closes. If I hold the button down, it remains open as long as the shutter button is depressed.<br> My question is about the time exposure set lever and using time exposure mode. (pg 66 of manual).<br> <br />Ray, in time mode, do I need to</p> <ol> <li>keep the shutter button pressed halfway till exposure is complete ( and when button is released , shutter closes)</li> <li>or press the shutter button halfway (shutter opens), release the shutter button and then push in time exposure set lever ( shutter closes at this point)</li> </ol> <p>I am pushing out time exposure set lever before pressing the shutter and also winding the film. I am setting the shutter speed dial to B. Currently my camera behaviour is matches option 1 listed above.<br> Which is the intended behaviour for camera? Thanks all.</p>

<p>Hi Ray, thanks a lot. Would any of my questions in 1,2 or 3 prevent time exposure mode from working?<br> I need to send my camera from India to US for service and am trying to ensure that it is required.<br> thanks once again for your valuable time and clearing my doubt. </p>

<p>Thanks for your response. I have somewhat better clarity now. I was trying to understand how to use the time exposure.<br> <br />1) I have film loaded in camera. Is it required for this to operate ?<br> 2) Do I need to lock the mirror?<br> 3) I have AE Prism finder attached to the body . Does this make any difference ?</p> <p> Sequence of steps :<br> A) I set the aperture on the ring<br> B) I move the shutter speed dial button to B Position<br> C) push out the time exposure lever<br> D) wind the film. I may have done earlier too.<br> E) press the shutter fully. The shutter opens and closes almost immediately ( fraction of second).<br> (There is no cable release attached to it )<br> <br />thanks for your time. have a nice one</p>

<p>Hi, I recently got a Pentax 67ii body from keh. <br> 1)<br> A) I set the aperture<br> B) I move to bulb<br> C) I push out the P.S Time lever<br> D) I press the shutter button and it clicks immediately.</p> <p>2)<br> A) I set the aperture<br> B) I move the time to 4 seconds<br> C) I push out the P.S time lever<br> D) I press the shutter button and shutter closes approximately after 4 seconds ( if I push back the P.S Time lever before or after, it does not matter)</p> <p> My questions :<br> 1) Is this the expected behaviour ?<br> 2) Am I making any mistakes in my steps ? I did load a film in it.</p> <p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>thanks a lot</p>