sanjay_chaudary

<p>Thanks for the replies. I am more concerned about the negative in the slide moving around in the mount for the 6x7 , than the cropping.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I got it serviced and it works. Updating here for anyone interested in this in future:<br /> I got info from person on FB who saw my post and replied.<br /> 1) Set the aperture after switching on camera<br /> 2) wind the film <br /> 3) Prism finder is not needed<br /> 4) It works even without film<br /> 5) set exposure mode to B<br /> 6) push out time exposure ( PS time) lever button<br /> 7) press shutter button fully - shutter will open<br /> 8) push time exposure button back<br /> 9) shutter will close<br /> Tested my camera and this is how it is working now.</p>

<p>Hi, saw the auto / manual lever on my pentax 67 lens and am wondering what the auto diaphragm is and it's purpose ?<br> <br />I read some articles on net, but it is still not clear. </p>

<p>David, I was speaking of the glassless mount for 6x7</p>

<p>thanks. It's just one or two slides moving inside the frame in a batch of 14 mounted slides. I am wondering if the metal mask is really needed? <br> It looks to me like the 35mm slide mount design is better.</p>

<p>thanks. the 50mm is not macro lens, but a regular one.</p>

<p>thanks for all the responses. It answers some of my questions. I avoided the glass version for the cost and also to avoid fungus ( I live in a place with very high humidity).<br> My question about the medium format slide mount with metal mask is whether the two slots above the slide and below the slide in each half of slide mount is meant for securing the slide. Does one insert the slide into the slot?<br> <br />thanks</p>

<p>Hi, I got Gepe glassless slide mounts for both medium format and 35mm. It seems that a part of the image is cut off when using the slide mount - more so for the medium format ( 6x7 slides).<br> 1) is the image cut-off inevitable?<br> I find it easier to reopen/close the 35mm slide mount than the 54x68 mount. Keeping the slide securely within the mount seems easier for the 35mm mount.<br> 2) The slide looks more prone to shifting around within the 54x68 glassless mount . I see two slits on top and two on bottom within slide mount . <br> Are these meant to secure the negative frame?I have some of my slides shifting within the mount and I can see gaps.<br> It seems more difficult to use than the fix points on the 35mm slide.<br> 3) If I position the negative frame within the slits, I am ending up with fingerprints on the slide and the slide is getting slightly curved.<br> thanks</p>

<p>Has anyone used the RRS B645D with pentax 67 or 67ii?</p>

<p>Hi,<br> thanks for all the responses. I got a rockstone transformer of higher wattage ( 1kw) and it works. This projector does not come up very often on sale compared to 35mm projector and I was lucky to get it from reliable source like BH. <br> I looked inside but could not find the connection and anyways, considering the difficulty in sourcing it and transporting to India from US, I did not want to risk it.<br> <br />thanks for all the tips, it helped me find the right tool for the job. happy new year</p>

<p>Hi,<br> I got it serviced and it works. Updating here for anyone interested in this in future:<br> I got info from person on FB who saw my post and replied.<br> 1) Set the aperture after switching on camera<br> 2) wind the film<br> 3) Prism finder is not needed<br> 4) It works even without film<br> 5) set exposure mode to B<br> 6) push out time exposure ( PS time) lever button<br> 7) press shutter button fully - shutter will open<br> 8) push time exposure button back<br> 9) shutter will close<br> Tested my camera and this is how it is working now.</p>

<p>Put the battery in first and then the cover and it worked. I put the battery in cover and put both together and it did not work. I had same problem with prism later and pressed the sides of the camera body near MLU Button and X . There was a gap earlier. That fixed it.</p>

<p>Hi,<br> I got it serviced and it works. Updating here for anyone interested in this in future:<br> I got info from person on FB who saw my post and replied.<br> 1) Set the aperture after switching on camera<br> 2) wind the film <br> 3) Prism finder is not needed<br> 4) It works even without film<br> 5) set exposure mode to B<br> 6) push out time exposure ( PS time) lever button<br> 7) press shutter button fully - shutter will open<br> 8) push time exposure button back<br> 9) shutter will close<br> Tested my camera and this is how it is working now.</p>

<p>thanks for all the valuable inputs</p>

<p>thanks a ton</p>

<p>Hmm, I have the Pentax 67ii that I got from keh. Had a problem with time exposure mode. they serviced it. shot only two rolls before the service. little early to comment. seems nice</p>

<p>Thanks, I have the older 28 - 105 usm and not the 24 - 105. I also have a 100 - 300 mm usm lens. I am using film , and shoot ISO 100 - 400. </p>

<p>thanks. I have the canon extension tubes, let me experiment.</p>

<p>Pentax 67 may also be there on pentaxforums site. There is also a pentax 6x7 group on flickr, where camera equipment keeps popping up. if you want to project 6x7 slides , mamiya procabin 67z is a nice and reasonably priced option.<br> Also note, that for metering capability, you will need to buy the AE prism finder separately for pentax 67ii<br> <br />A few links :<br> http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/AsahiPentax67.html<br> http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00V3fc<br> http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111025<br> http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/53-pentax-dslr-camera-articles/110934-pentax-6x7-pentax-67-pentax-67ii-compared.html</p> <p>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentax_6%C3%977</p>

<p>Hi, thanks a lot. I think I will just try it out. I have the canon eos lens and shoot on a film body - so its a full frame. <br> I have the 100mm usm macro (non IS) from canon. can the 50mm be used for macro and do I need to reverse it? is it worth it considering that I already have a 100mm macro lens?<br> <br />I will check vickis page. thanks</p>

<p>Hi, I have a 50mm f1.4 lens . I bought it for low light, but am not using it that much, as I do not have space in my photobag and end up using 28 - 105 mm zoom more often.<br> what subjects does one use 50mm for generally?</p> <p>thanks and regards<br> Sanjay</p>

<p>Hi,I had a Perr message coming. I cleaned the contacts of the battery chamber, the prism finder and the camera body where the prism finder attaches to the camera, apart from the battery. The prism finder view, showed no readings and some bars kept flashing.<br> I took out the prism finder a few times and re-attached it. That did not help. I took out the focussing screen and attached the prism finder again. Perr message came intermittently , got few exposure readings correctly.<br> I removed the prismfinder and it had appeared bit loose on one side. I pressed hard on both sides of the camera body with my fingers , close to x spot on one side and close to MLU button on other side. The gap reduced. After doing this, when I reinserted the prismfinder, it fit snugly. The contact with locking pins on sides was loose earlier. I believe this fixed the issue and it was due to the loose contact. Hope this helps .</p>

<p>Hi, it's working now. I cleaned the contacts of the battery chamber, the prism finder and the camera body where the prism finder attaches to the camera, apart from the battery. The prism finder view, showed no readings and some bars kept flashing.<br> I took out the prism finder a few times and re-attached it. That did not help. I took out the focussing screen and attached the prism finder again. Perr message came intermittently , got few exposure readings correctly.<br> I removed the prismfinder and it had appeared bit loose on one side. I pressed hard on both sides of the camera body with my fingers , close to x spot on one side and close to MLU button on other side. The gap reduced. After doing this, when I reinserted the prismfinder, it fit snugly. The contact with locking pins on sides was loose earlier. It is working now. I believe this fixed the issue. Hope this helps others.</p>

<p>Hi, thanks a lot. I just got the Plamp a few days ago. I shoot film negatives and slides. some nice ideas in here. With handheld flash, I am concerned about not getting the look of natural light. Getting sharp focus is also a challenge with insects and handheld photography.<br> On the pan idea, I have a skimmer pod from naturescape. I attached my camera to it and placed the pod on a stool and took photo of the spider, but the lens weight caused the pod to lean over and it almost toppled. I balanced it by keeping my hand on camera to balance it.<br> I shoot mostly wildlife and a little of architecture. In Macro, I have shot some photos of flowers, indoor shots of car models, decorative items. I got some spiders and caterpillars in my garden and am trying to take photos . </p>

<p>Hi, the price does seem a bit high. I can't tell about condition. I was offered a Pentax 67ii with 200mm and another lens for around 1000 USD , from Singapore.<br> You might also want to check keh.com . bhphoto, adorama might also have them. Pentax 67ii has aperture metering (requires ae prism finder to be bought) . got mine from keh.com . keh has several of them. mine had time exposure problem and had to be serviced .<br> some of people in here may also have. check with steve rasmussen - he knows person who had one for sale. I am not sure of condition. keh has currently from 168 to 400 usd. you might want to take model with mirror lockup<br> <br />pentax 67ii is around 822 there.</p>