phule

<p>Where are you noticing these differences? Are you looking at 100% views? Are you looking at prints? Have you done a direct, side-by-side comparison between the two bodies shooting the same scene with the same settings?<br> Can you upload examples?</p>

<p>The combination of a good camera bag with a zipper and the mass of the camera and lenses and you should be fine. For years I used the ziplock bag method, but I've found that, as long as the bag is as cold as everything else, and as long as you're not walking into a sauna, just zip them all up and head inside. Take the batteries and cards out first.</p>

<p>[[.is there any easy way to get photos which were shot on DSLR and now on my computer into Instagram? ]]<br> <br> Email downsized versions to yourself or copy the files from your computer to the phone as Eric suggested. </p>

What have you tried to focus on with the 100mm lens? Have you tried putting the camera in auto mode and just using the lens like a normal lens? Are you using live view or the optical viewfinder?

<p>[[6D will shot inconsistent colour temperatures when shooting the same scene in burst mode. some images will be warm (red) and some cold (blue/ white).]]<br> <br />Any camera with the exact same settings will capture the same variance. The answer is to lower your shutter speed below the flickering threshold. </p>

<p>Is the room that important? Just cut him out of the photo and drop him onto a new background. 99% of the flare is not on him.</p>

<p>You might also try this method:<br> <a href="https://communities.intel.com/thread/43713">https://communities.intel.com/thread/43713</a></p>

<p>[[The 2560x1600 resolution is not an option thru the Intel graphics control pane. The driver were updated via the device manager.]]</p> <p>I would recommend you completely uninstall the driver and start fresh. There is no way you should be limited to 1280x800. Either that or you have some settings misconfigured. </p>

<p>[[i tried all resolutions available thru Intel graphics control pane]]</p> <p>I am still struggling to understand why you are running a 30 inch monitor at 1280x800. The native resolution of your monitor is 2560 x 1600. </p> <p>I would highly recommend updating the video drivers of your PC. This is likely the source of your errors. Assuming the hardware can support a higher resolution than your default. If not, then adding a semi-modern video card will be in order. </p>

<p>Shooting raw means the processing part is the rendering of the data to a viewable file. So post-processing is all the work that follows that step. The existing phrase seems fine for my workflow, but perhaps not others.</p> <p>Post-exposure is when I put the camera back in the camera bag and head off in search of a drink.</p>

What did you try changing it to?

<p>What is the current resolution setting for your monitor? </p>

<p>I'm confused by your post, if you /need/ to replace your 50mm lens, then you need to replace it. Your more affordable choices are:</p> <p>Canon 50mm f/1.8, Canon 50mm f/1.4 and Canon 50mm f/2.5 Macro. The Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art is $950.</p> <p>If you're not using your existing 24mm f/2.8 (non-IS) I'm not sure what the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM or the 24mm f/2.8 IS will get you other than a lighter wallet.</p>

<p>[[my question really is what focus setting should my camera be configured to esp when she is moving around pretty much in all directions..]]</p> <p>There are a couple of things at play here. First, in a mode that allows you (I'm assuming the auto-modes do not allow you to change the AF options) start with AF-C (Continuous Servo AF) when the child is moving. Select the center focus point, and keep the center focus point on your moving child, with the idea that you plan on cropping later. Make sure, also, that you are not using Live View mode, but are, in fact, using the optical viewfinder. </p> <p>Next, make sure you have the camera set to continuous shooting (allowing multiple shots by just holding down the shutter button). </p> <p>Lastly, take lots of photos, fully realizing that you're going to delete most of them later. </p> <p>All that being said, if you want good photos, then you need to make sure you are setting yourself up for success and not failure. Do not expect to just be able to pick up the camera at any possible second and 1) dial in all those settings and 2) have a cooperative child. You need to plan for times when your child is in good light, and is less interested in the camera. I have found that shooting from further away and/or trying to not be the object of attention, helps tremendously. A 35mm lens may not allow you to do this, though again, with 24MP to use, you could easily be further back and crop in. If you have your partner help you, by providing distraction next to your daughter (but without being directly in the frame) then you can catch more of those spontaneous moments. <br> If you're looking for more formal portraits, then the amount of work you will be doing will increase exponentially. Sometimes providing toys/props will help, if you can temporarily distract them from looking down. </p> <p>Toddlers are curious scientists and want to explore what you're doing. </p>

<p>[[and stay there until you stop moving the frame.]]<br> Adobe is using their processing algorithm to attempt to remove hot pixels. It the version of the image you see while panning is the embedded JPG not the rendered preview from the algorithm. Once you stop moving, the Adobe software takes over again and renders the image.</p> <p>All your observation tells you is that Adobe software has some secret sauce. It doesn't tell you anything about the sensor that you didn't already know. </p>

<p>[[Well, I can tell you what will be an issue... every time she wants to zoom in to more than 40 or 55mm]]<br> <br> +1</p>

<p>[[My family is waiting for prints.]]</p> <p>If your family is waiting for prints, then you might consider a printing service that will attempt to auto-correct your prints for you. There is time to have them ship you a couple test prints to see if there's value in printing the rest. I have used mpix.com in the past. </p> <p>[[Years ago I tried to teach myself how to use Photoshop.]]</p> <p>Photoshop is wonderful, but, IMHO, the general color corrections/exposure corrections/cropping/etc that one needs with digital photography are better served by a program like Picasa or, for down-the-road, Adobe Lightroom where 1) the changes are non-destructive 2) the changes can be copied/replicated easily from one to many photos. </p>

<p>Learning photography, especially digital photography, without prior experience, can be a very daunting task indeed. But, thankfully, there are many, many resources available to help. There are on-line courses from services like Lydia.com, or free videos on YouTube. However, as Sanford points out, there are local resources too. I would second his recommendation of finding local camera classes (a local community college would be a great start).</p> <p>That, of course, doesn't help you with the photos you've already taken. The difficulty here is, if you don't have a lot of photography experience, trying to edit photos with unfamiliar digital editing tools may be equally daunting.</p> <p>First recommendation is that, whatever you do, <strong>do not </strong>work with the original files from the camera. Make a copy of every file you want to work on and use them for your editing. If something happens during the editing and you make a mistake, you can always go back to the unedited originals.</p> <p>Secondly, are the families expecting digital files or are they expecting prints? If they are expecting prints, you can upload them to a printing service that will auto-correct your images for you. This auto correction may not be perfect, but it may be quicker than trying to edit the photos yourself.</p> <p>As an alternative, you may consider installing Picasa from Google: http://picasa.google.com/<br /> This software is a non-destructive editor (meaning it keeps track of your changes but does not touch the original files.) The editing tools contained within are user friendly. The key to applying those changes is by way of the "Export" option. After you make color corrections, you would need to Export a new file, which is the edited version of the original, and use that to either email or to print. </p>

<p>The Samsung NX1, at 15 frames per second and in continuous AF, is very likely a contender in this space. More reviews are needed, however, to determine how viable.</p>

<p>Can you upload examples of a photo you took with the Fuji that you like and a photo you took with the Olympus you didn't like? It would be helpful to include the shooting information (i.e. unedited versions of the photos).</p> <p>That said, if you're shooting with the fully automatic settings, then you're turning over some control of the image creation process to the camera. The differences in colors and saturation may simply be the default settings choices between the two cameras. If you are unhappy with the default choices, then you have the option of looking to leave full auto mode of the e-pm1 and adjust the color, contrast, sharpness choices within the camera system yourself. </p>

Lightroom is an asset management tool and is not like Photoshop. Any changes you make are completely virtual and nondestructive. It is an important concept to understand. I would recommend an online course to get the fundamentals down because without it you may not fully realize the software's amazing potential.

<p>[[i think we've become orphans!]]</p> <p>Other than the three A-mount lenses announced today, you mean?</p> <p><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/articles/7073159103/not-dead-yet-sony-announces-three-a-mount-lenses">http://www.dpreview.com/articles/7073159103/not-dead-yet-sony-announces-three-a-mount-lenses</a></p> <p>[[Not aware of some new E-mount lenses that were just announced]]</p> <p>"just announced" might mean "road-map shown in September" </p> <p><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/articles/6393450040/sony-shows-off-upcoming-fe-lenses-at-photokina">http://www.dpreview.com/articles/6393450040/sony-shows-off-upcoming-fe-lenses-at-photokina</a></p>

<p>[[Does anyone know what waterfall that is? I can just hear the roar. We are so dry out west that it would be fun to visit.]]</p> <p>The photo is of the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone River in Yellowstone National Park. The bridge in the background is the Chittenden Memorial Bridge. </p>

<center><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/36/82072240_604b2def7f_z.jpg?zz=1" width="640" height="480" alt="Crossing"><br /> X is for X </center>

<p>[[i am just wondering how much better the new 24 IS lens is compared to the old one.]]</p> <p>There are plenty of old/new comparison reviews available online for the IS replacements of the trio of prime lenses (24, 28, 35mm). </p> <p>As you indicate the money is not an issue, there's no reason I've seen to not buy the IS versions. </p>