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<p>[[Every time I change to Manual Focus there are this white lines running around <br />the screen]]<br> <br> This is known, generally, as Focus Peaking<br> Page 65 of the user guide tells you how to make adjustments to this feature. <br> http://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1410/v1/en/print.pdf<br> </p>

<center><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3365/3578526675_1c7d999469_z.jpg"> </center>

<center><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7281/26955526543_7e58775e66_c.jpg"></center>

<p>[[i need a new camera and this has the options I'm looking for, if anyone knows of a camera that costs less with all of these features please let me know]]<br> The Panasonic LX100 is the next closest competitor to the famed RX100 series from Sony. The LX100 offers a larger sensor but fewer MP than the Sony (not sure how much cropping you'll be doing). I've not heard anything about AF on the LX100 being sluggish. <br> I own a Sony RX100 Mark II and it's been fantastic. If I were to replace it, I'd buy the RX100 Mark III instead of the IV because I don't need the video features the IV provides. </p>

<p>[[unfortunately, a GoPro won't do any of the things the OP wants to do.]]<br> <br> I guess all the streaming people do directly to tablets, phones, and even PC's is just a figment of their imaginations? </p>

<p>[[Personally I would find the 24 a little bit wide, even on the APS-C]]<br> <br> One of my favorite film cameras was the Canonet QL17 GIII which I think explains my preference for the 24mm on APS-C (over the 28mm)</p>

<p>I owned the 40mm f/2.8 pancake as well as the original 35mm f/2 and the older 50mm f/1.8 II.<br> I sold the 40mm as I liked the slightly wider, slightly faster 35mm more, despite the (relative) larger size compared to the 40. My next favorite lens on a crop sensor camera is indeed the 24mm f/2.8.</p> <p>I'd recommend the 35mm f/2 IS or the 24mm f/2.8 IS. Look for either used (from reputable sources) or refurbished from Canon for some cost savings. </p>

<p>Can't comment on whether or not this would work specifically for the Sigma cameras, but if you do buy one I'd like to second the recommendation of the Anker brand. We've been extremely happy with the quality of Anker external batteries we've been using for cell phone and tablet re-charging. </p>

<p>Just buy a GoPro and be done with it. </p>

<p>[[The help you need is renting or borrowing a camera.]]<br> <br> Indeed. </p>

<p>[[i've got a 776 x 1024 photo taken with an iPhone5 ]]<br> <br> This is not the native resolution of the iPhone 5 camera. You do not have access to the original file? </p>

<p>[[Why not go with a nice superzoom like the Panasonic FZ1000?]]<br> <br> In addition there have been a couple other recently released cameras that offer a similar feature set: <br> Canon G3X is a 24-600mm with a newer BSI 1" sensor<br> Nikon DL24-500 is a (not surprising) 24-500mm also with the newer BSI 1" sensor<br> </p>

<p>[[Do you want the reflections in the eye? Or not want them?]]<br> Indeed. </p>

<p>[[Why are DSRLs/D cameras so expensive anyway?]]</p> <p>They're not. Just the ones you're interested in are expensive. Canon is offering (albeit refurbished) a modern DSLR and kit zoom lens for $250. </p>

<p><a href="http://bokeh.digitalrev.com/article/panasonic-develops-sensor-with-100x-wider-dynamic-range-than-traditional-cmos">http://bokeh.digitalrev.com/article/panasonic-develops-sensor-with-100x-wider-dynamic-range-than-traditional-cmos</a></p>

<p>If you are in the US, you can get a refurbished 55-250mm STM from Canon with a 1 year warranty for $99 right now.<br> <a href="http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/ef-s-55-250mm-f4-5-6-is-stm-telephoto-zoom-lens-refurbished">http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/ef-s-55-250mm-f4-5-6-is-stm-telephoto-zoom-lens-refurbished</a></p> <p> </p>

<p>[[sony RX100II or III or IV]]</p> <p>This and this again. I picked up a Sony RX100 II (new-to-me) and it's been fantastic. </p>

<p>The time to buy the 70D was immediately following Thanksgiving where a refurbished directly from Canon with a 1 year warranty was $650 (with the 18-55mm STM no less). I'm kicking myself for not doing it.</p>

<p>[[in either case, like I said, I like the bokeh of shooting wide open so I really didn't want to take it down to 5.6 or narrower]]</p> <p>There is nothing in this image to give you good, or bad, bokeh. Bokeh is the quality of the out-of-focus highlights. You have nothing in the background or foreground that can be described as an out of focus highlight. There is no "bokeh" to be had anywhere in this scene.</p> <p>There is nothing wrong with your AF. The problem is that you're shooting at far too wide an aperture for reasons that are based on a misunderstanding of a trendy photographic term. The focus, no pun intended, should be on your paying clients. Delivering them a sharp photo based on sound photographic principles and practices should be your goal. I highly recommend you stop shooting portraits at f/1.4 until you have studied further the fundamentals. It hardly matters if the quality of your out of focus highlights are good or bad if your subjects are not actually in focus. </p>

<p>What reason would you have to not work with the RAW files prior to building your stack?</p>

<p>Generally, I can also see it working through the viewfinder. Zoom to 135mm and handhold the camera with the shutter button half-pressed. If your subject is closer (ie not at infinity) you should see a difference in stability between IS off and IS on.</p>

<p>If you're in the US, Canon is offering the 1200D/T5 for $200 with the kit lens. An amazing deal for a refurbished camera with a 1 year warranty.<br> <a href="http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-rebel-t5-ef-s-18-55mm-is-ii-lens-kit-refurbished">http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-rebel-t5-ef-s-18-55mm-is-ii-lens-kit-refurbished</a></p>

<p>[[i also have little stopper, and I don't have this issue with that filter. Only when I use the big stopper, and generally only on longer exposures (1 minute plus]]<br> Personally, I would start eliminating variables and then adding them back in until the problem occurs. For example, take the camera into a darkened room with a lens cap on and exposed for 1 minute plus. I the problem doesn't show up then start adding variables until you hit the one that causes it. If it does happen in those conditions without adding any variables then you have narrowed it down to a problem with the camera. </p>

<p>I gave my kids an Olympus Tough series camera. Waterproof, drop-proof, crush-proof, etc. They use it all over the place and I don't have to worry about it. The only down side is the battery life is poor, but I have inexpensive 3rd party spares charged up for them.</p>

<p>Chipworks says Toshiba, but you need to pay quite a bit to look at the details.<br /> <a href="https://chipworks.secure.force.com/catalog/ProductDetails?sku=NIK-D7200_Pri-Camera&viewState=DetailView&cartID=&g=">https://chipworks.secure.force.com/catalog/ProductDetails?sku=NIK-D7200_Pri-Camera&viewState=DetailView&cartID=&g=</a></p>