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k_michael

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Posts posted by k_michael

  1. My S2 would not opereate through the IEEE 1394 port. The computer

    would not recognize the camera. Photo Tech in NYC said the circuit

    board was shot and a replacement would cost $460. The work was done,

    I took the camera home and it still would not work. Once I took it

    back, Photo Tech says I destroyed the pin connection deep inside the

    IEEE 1394 port which is part of the circuit board they replaced. I'm

    not one to put "square pegs in round holes" and the IEEE 1394 cable

    is the only one that will fit any way, shape or form. Payment on the

    Mastercard will be stopped and I am going to bring it to Fuji in NJ

    for there evaluation.

     

    Any feedback on whatI just posted? Feel free to email me at

    Coodeville@aol.com

  2. And the F100 is selling for $899 brand new. $600 used in excellent condition. What a difference 5 years makes? Mine is still going strong after 5 years. I'm glad I didn't get the F5. Matter of fact, I'm mainly a Fuji S2 man these days.
  3. My B&W camera is my Contax G2. 99% of mt B&W work is street photography. The G2's lenses serve my style well. But If I need a longer lens than 90mm for a B&W shot, I go with my Nikon F100. This does not happen too much at all.

     

    I couldn't see paying the price for some of the Leica equipment at all. I know a lot of photographers will fault me on this. Iswn't that a story in itself?

  4. I just searched on eBay for a Leica M6. Adorama has a few on auction.

    I then went to Adorama's web site to see what they had under "used"

    only to find that they had none available. This is not the first time

    I noticed this. Someone told methe M6 is more popular than ever. You

    think Adorama's policy is to just sell M6's on eBay?

  5. The design of the SONT CCD in the Nikon camera mandates the need for DX flashes. That why I purchased an S2 and not a Nikon D series. I use a Metz 45 series flash with the S2. The Mets is about 7 years old or so. I have no problems at all. The MEtz is so much more powerful than the Nikon flashe and has that fill flash light as well.
  6. I was in there again recently too. Same old story but it looks as if they did some sort of renovation. New stuff is pretty much out of the question..........which isn't a bad thing at all. But honestly, some ofthere stuff is so old that film does not even exsist any more for these cameras. Only thing he hadthat I liked was a special edition Leica M6............for 6 grand.
  7. Today, as I appraoched a local park, I notived the usual wedding

    [ictures being taken. I went over to scope out the scene and noticed

    that 5 out of 6 photographers were using digital SLR's. The only film

    camera being used was a Hasselblad 503CW.

     

    Are the majority of wedding photographers going digital?

  8. I purchased this unit at Calumet's clearance sale without a box or

    instructions. It does not have a proportional modeling light and only

    one knob on the side. I've placed the model number into a search

    engine numerous times and came up with nothing.

     

    Can someone tell me how old this unit is and when it was

    discontinued? The plate say Model BW-1081. This is a pretty simple

    flash unit.

  9. I myself use Adorama paper. I was told it's just repackaged Ilford. But once I did get a bad batch. The darkroom manager exchanged it " no questions asked."

     

    I have notice that the Adorama paper is not good with certain toners or paper developers. Get yourself a box of Kodak and see what happens. Plus, make a test strip with just white light and no negative present. Start out with the lens at f/16 and set your enlarger timer to 60 seconds. After every 4 seconds, cover moreand more of the paper, You should wind up with a progression of greyscale. It won't be a stop between each gradiant. But you should eventually go from white to black. If your problem persists, I's suspect a defective lens, bad chemistry or possible the incorrect typw of safelight.

  10. I recently did some shots of a car with my RZ and the 50mmf/4.5

    lens. My goal was to fill the frame top to bottom and left to right

    as much as possible with the car. Parts of the vehicle came out

    distorted. What lens would you recommend I use? Would I have been

    better of using my 180mm lens for this shot?

  11. The question came up the other day about whether or not Zeiss glass is as good as people say it is. A good friend, who owns a photography studio that grosses 1.6 million a year says that the only time he's seen a difference with a Zeiss lens is when a test for lp/mm is done. Zeiss wins 99% of time. But the human eye cannot see this and with todays sophisticated computer technolgy, most lens manufactureres glass is pretty much equal in performance. Just his opinion though.
  12. Take a look and see what the value of the Tiffen filter is. If it's within or the same as the filter you ordered, I would just keep it. I myself have never found much of a difference between the two except for price and prestige. I own a 2004 DeVille and also a 1972 Ford . The Ford runs just as well as the DeVille does. Matter of fact, the Ford is used more than the DeVille. Get the point? I only have the DeVille for the looks and the ego. The Ford get the job done just as well.
  13. I have no doubt that this lens has a fast AF. I already own the 80-200 version in AF-S. The price of a used one is around 1100 in Adorama and 950 on eBay. Still a lot of cash. A friend, who's a founding member of PDN claims that Sigma's version is just as good optically at 1/3 the price. He makes this claim based on the fact that most of the major glass manufacturers now rely on computer technology in research and production.
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