k_michael

I neer used the VP feature. I shoot in A prioity mode. Think about it, isn't it the same thing?

 

All of the modes are contolled from either the front or back thumbwheel.

Is this a push/pull "D" type lens?

I think I would go wit hthe D70 as well. Although I use a Fuji S2, if given the choices you give, the D70 would be the one since it's much more technologically advanced and fine tuned. Wasn't the original D1 loaded with bugs? Wasn't there a problem with flash exposure as well? Unless your going to get one for 200 bucks.............why spend close to what a D70 costs and then deny yourself what the D70 has to offer?

Doesn't digital and PS contradict itself?

I've seen great photos made with an F5. And I'v also seen great photos made with a disposable. Knowing howto use your tools is the most important thing.

Very interesting stuff!

I would think it depends on how much of a begginner you are. I know nothing about any of them. But I would think that the best one would be one that allows you to set aperture and shutter speed so you can see the effects of exposure.

I missed a lot of good shots because of this lens in AF mode. f/4-5.6 is just way too slow. I sold mine on eBay for $75 and went all the way with an 80-200 F/2.8 AFS and never looked back.

 

If your shooting stationary objects then it will be OK. B&H has a used mint one for $75. I was in the store the other day and saw it in the display case.

The camera won't automatically go to CW metering since it has no contacts? Does the camera even have CW metering?

Damn! The market for this stuf is so bad that they don't want to make it any more?

I did a movie a few years back. The key line was, "Houston, we have a problem."

You should have no problem. I myself have the Nikon version of this lens. I think the Nikon focuses faster.

Never had a problem with a Sigma lens at all. Oneo f my favorites is a 105mm macro.

 

Watch out for one thing...........if you purchase from a bargain basement store, make sure it's a real Sigma lens inside the box. I opened a box up one time and found a Quantary lens with a Sigma label on it. The lens was 400 bucks less than what Adorama wanted.

I figured it out. The softbox on top is way in back and partially flaged in order to keep some light off the background. The light falling on the bottle is only feathered light. Once I used this technique, the softbox vanished from view.

I would not take the chance of using something that is not original equipment with this camera. If blow out the main board, it's going to cost you $800 from Fuji to fix it.

 

Go to Fuji and get the original part.

I shoot motor vehicles and I think the most best lens for this is the 80-200 F/2.8 AFS lens. I use a Fuji S2. You'll get great results with your camera. But you'll want a fast lens. It makes all the difference inthe world.

I'm attempting to foillow a lighting diagram from a lighting book I

purchased at Amazon. This book ispart of the "Lighting Series"

publications. I'm attempting to photograph a bottle of liquer and

accordingto the diagram, the softbox is above ans slightly behind the

bottle. The photo in the book shows nop reflection of the softbox at

all. I myself have psoitioned the softbox just the way the manual

says and just can't seem to get rid of the refelection. Do you think

these books are similiar to cookbooks in the sense that the author

isn't telling me everything? Or is it possible the photo

was "shopped" and the author isn't talking about it? I wish I could

postthis photo for you to see it.

You can go wireless as well. That's what we use in the studio.

I would think in ternms of expansion. Buy a case that will hold all that youy have plus one additonal lens. You never know! This stuff is additive, isn't it?

Metz and RZ are teh way to go. Only thing I would advise you to do is brush up on "Flash 101" I have noticed that whenever 50% or better of my composition is white, opening up one stop on the lens makes a nicer image with the Metz. And the same goes for black as well but in reverse. Shut down one stop if 50% or more of your composition is black. I use the Mets 45CT4 using this theroy and I love my results. The Mets Flash is pretty accurate. But as I said, re read the basics of flash and then decide what you want to do.

I use the 180 all the time as well. Major thing to decide is how close will you be to your subject and how much compression do you want?

Only with a synch chord and in "A" mode. RZ does not offere any TTL flash control at all. Metz autoflash work well with this camera.

From what I understand, 6x4.5 mask is also available.

The RZ has never let me down. Every 'blad that I ever used jammed. The 'blad is lightweight and trendy. The RZ is a monster camera, not trendy and is much easier to compose with since it's aspect ration is the same as and 8x10 or a 16 x 20.

For studio, you probably will not notice any difference at all.