k_michael

I just sent back my Nikon Coolpix 5000 because the internal flash

cannot be completely tuned off. That's a problen when I use strobes

with slaves. Can the Olympus C4000's flash be completely tuned off-no

preflash or any ofthat other stuff-so I can use the Olymous PC

adapter to trigger my key. I do not want to buy the camera just

forthe hassle of retuning it again.

I had one of these flashes. It blew up on me. Talk about a pop!

I've owned one for 10 hours and hate it already. Is it worth $700?

No. My finger sits right in front of the photocell. Nikon says to put

your SB80DX into TTL when you place it in the hot shoe. So if the

photo cell is controlling the hot shoe mounted flash, is it really

TTL? When I place my finger directly over the cell, the SB80DX blasts

like a rocket. The camera is going back to B&H tomorrow.

I was in B&H today. The black body is $300 more than the titanium.

I'm looking for some history on the black Contax G2. When was it

first made? Was it a limited edition or is it still in production?

Why is it more difficult to find black lenses? Adorama doesn't carry

them at all. I'm interested in all the info I can get on this model.

I walked into Jeff Hirsch's Photcare in NYC yesterday with my G2 and

TLA 200 flash hanging from around my neck. Photocare claims that the

TLA 200 is not a TTL flash unit becasue it only has two terminals on

the mount and not three. Photocare claims that one terminal on the

flash is for power and the other just sets shutter speed. A third

terminal is needed to properly quench the flash. Is this guy kidding

me? The flash has a TTL mode on it. Plus, my chromes came out

perfectly exposed without any calculations or flash metering sone at

all.

The answer is all of them. The "C" settings are your selected F/stop. So if you place the "C" stting at F/8 on the Metz, place the lens at f/8 as well. All of the "C" settings are for the automatic mode. "M" stands for manual flash and a flash meter is required unless youreally believe the GN. "W" is a manual flash mode used with winders.

I just purchased an SB80DX to use with my F100 and SB28. I programmed

the SB80 to work in wireless TTL mode and used my SB28 as the

triggering flash. 3D was cancelled on the SB28 and the flash was set

in regular TTL mode.

My pictures do not appear to be properly exposed. Is placement of the

slave flash a crucial part of the wireless TTL slave flash technique

working properly?

The flash is eitheh shot or you did not program it properly out of the box. Get the manual and there is a 50% chance your problem wll be solved.

Warren, take a good lighting course and you'll learn all about ambient, hot lights and flash. I didn't read the whole thread, but I think you're under the idea that studio flash works the same way as hotlights or ambient do.

I have an F100. I purchased the SB50DX and was not happy with it at all. The only advantage I can see for it is that it has an IR filter included so you can use it as a slave trigger on studio flash. But now, Nikon has the SB30 which also has that option and is about $90 less that the SB50DX. Save your cash and get the SB80DX. You will not regret it at all.

I just purchased and SB 80DX. I was going to purchase the wireless

TTL slave but felt I was better off just buying a complete flash with

a built in TTL slave. The Sb 80 has a button that activates the stobe

in a continous flash taht is considered a modeling light.

I've been doing this for years with my SB-28. All you have to do it

place the 28 into the M stobotic flash mode at 24-50hz at 1/64 power

setting, hit the test button and then adjust your flash for your

desired shadow location.

I've found a used one at a good price. When was this model

discontinued? Can it be used with TTL? Are there any web sites with

some info on these flashes?

He needs a psychophilosophical board.

Your response shows the level of your social graces. You're answer is recieved with no respect at all. It recieves what it gives.

How does Sigma lenses compare to Nikon lenses in glass quality.

I loved that lens and had the same problem. Sigma repaired it under warranty. And then it went straight to eBay.

I was in Olden Camera the other day in NYC. Tri-x $4.99 a roll? A

used Minolta Color meter, $599? Alkit Pro Photo sold me the same used

color meter for $250.

And then one day down the road, usually during an important gig, you find out the bulb has rotted out internally and has a pinhole leak.

Is it sold yet? If not, I'm interested.

Two Tokina'a I've owned and Two Tokina's I've sold. Both of them went back to Cali 2x for warranty work. The killer to it all is when they sent one back with a fingerprint inside the glass! What does that tell you? Nikon's price is huge..........so huge that I decided to by a black Contax G2 with the TLA200 and 35-70 zoom instead. I can't see spending that kind of money on a Nikon lens when I can "drive" a Zeiss for $300 less that gives me the sharpest pictures I've ever seen in my life.

I've used the closeup filters and noticed the lack of DOF to my immages even at F/32 You get what you pay for. I went cheap and that's how my pictures come out.

I try not to shoot with a UV filter at all. I've noticed that the pictures come out much better without it. And with my 50 F1.8, a filter casues a lot of glare. I've even tried a B&W and this still happens.

Bogen 3021 is the one you're thinking of. I got mine used with a head and bag along with all the original paperwork and boxes for $100.

Recently, I went to Adorama to purchase a filter. The salesman asked me what brand and I responded "Tiffen". He asked me why I was interested in garbage when Hoya was so much better. He claimed that Tiffen's glass was not optical quality glass. Well, I sent an email to Tiffen and explained all of this to them. Not only did I recieve an email but also a phone call from the president of the company. He was exceptionally nice to me and he ever rip the salesman at Adorama apart for claiming that Tiffen glass was not optical quality. I myself have used Tiffen from day one and can't complain.