Want a film camera - FE2 or FM2n?

Trying to decide which film camera - the Nikon FE2 ($260 EX at KEH) or FM2n ($483 EX+ at KEH). FE2 a little better for candid street with A-priority; FM2n newer, less electronics, and probably more reliable, great LED readouts, but a little more of a hassle for the street. Films to be used - Provia 100F and Kodak Portra 400. This is a Nikon forum so I'm posting it here, instead of film - I'm interested in your comments and suggestions. FWIW, I also have D700, D60, and lots of AI and AIS lenses.

 

FWIW, I'm also considering a 1993 GMC Sierra with a creeper gear manual transmission. Now you know from where I'm coming!

 

Gene

Neither. I would suggest the F100. It will use all your AI and AIS lenses plus all the newer auto-focus lenses up to, but not including, the e-lenses - the electronic aperture lenses. I have owned mine for almost 20-years and never had a problem with it.

$483 for an FM2n?? Has the market gone that nuts? That used to be $100 all day.

 

I agree that an F100 is a great choice, but if you do want something in the more classic style, get the FE2. It has a needle meter. The FM2n is great but it only has a +/- meter readout. Or how about an FA? Nobody cares about those so they might still be affordable.

Its the rare FE that made it this far with a functioning meter.

Its the rare FE that made it this far with a functioning meter.

 

I have one...

While I love my F100(and my F6, which basically feels like an update/improved F100 with a more intuitive custom function menu) I don't think it's a great choice for use with MF lenses.

 

For me-I have two FE2s that rarely get used, and three FM2s(or specifically FM2ns) that are in regular use. I don't use the FM2s as much as I do my F2SB and F2AS, but that's largely a personal preference and I'd be happy to use only an FM or FM2.

 

My single biggest criticism of the FE2 extends pretty universally from the Nikkormat EL up through the FM3a(the latter of which is one of the few Nikon film bodies I don't have-mostly because they're a big chunk of money for what they are). Specifically, I don't care for the meter display. This is strictly a personal preference, but I have a but of an aversion to meter read-outs on the left side of the viewfinder. I'm fine with below, to the right, or even above but for some reason(maybe it's the fact that I'm right eye dominant) I find left sided readouts uncomfortable. I even feel this way about the FM10, even though you can see its three light display without looking directly at it.

 

Additionally, for manual operation, I'm not particular comfortable with Nikon's match-needle implementation. I say this as someone who switched to Nikon from Canon cameras like the F-1(original and new) and FTb, which have a big and clear "lollipop" that's 1-stop wide. Nikon's implementation uses a small translucent green "flag" in conjunction with the needle. I find the shutter speeds small and hard to read, and the FE2 is the worst of the cameras in this series. The original Nikormat EL with this meter only had to cover 4 seconds to 1/1000. By the time the FE2 came along, that same space had been squeezed together to cover 8 seconds to 1/4000. I'm a bit weird too in that I actually like the FG for its meter display, which is a nice match-LED arrangement.

 

The 3 lights on the FM2 are simple and easy to use, don't intrude on the viewfinder area, and can be seen in any light.

The FE series has the most unobtrusive finder layout of any modern film camera. The bright red diodes of the FM drives me nuts.

The match needle design of the FE is actually much more intuitive when used in manual mode, as you know the exact relationship between the suggested and the chosen shutter speed. And the FE has A - which is an advantage in my book.

ben_hutcherson nailed pretty much everything: it really comes down to your preference for auto exposure vs manual, then secondarily are you the type that gets bent out of shape by a particular kind of viewfinder display. If you think you'd mostly leave the camera on AE, and won't be fussed by a somewhat hard-to-read, old-school printed chart in the viewfinder, you can save quite a bit of money with the FE2 (the FM2 is now and always was more expensive, from the minute it was discontinued). If you think you'd mostly prefer to make manual exposure settings, and esp if you'll shoot a lot indoors or at dusk, the 3-LED 5-stage display of the FM2 is much more visible and usable (but of course, you don't have an AE option).

 

The display of the FE2 was based on the FE, which was derived from the Nikkormat EL series. In their day, the Nikkormat EL and FE display was one of the most admired among AE cameras: from the '60s thru the '80s, these were among the select few AE cameras that actually had a functional fully-coupled manual meter mode. Most AE cameras of the period would simply display the auto-set shutter speed or aperture in AE mode: if you switched to manual nothing was coupled (you had to eyeball the number in the display and then take the camera from your eye to transfer the setting).

 

But time marches on, and by the '80s most AE cameras had bright LED displays that were easily visible in available light. The FE/FE2 began to seem dated and quaint, esp if you really needed to quickly meter in dim light. The shutter speed scale is lit by the scene you compose, so readability of the tiny printed numbers varies greatly as you frame the shot. This isn't such big a hardship in AE mode, because you'll instinctively be aware of the shutter going too slow or too high for proper AE. But in manual exposure mode, it can be hopeless when there isn't enough scene light behind the display panel for you to see the very thin meter needle and very pale green manual follow pointer.

 

My personal choice for an AE Nikon film body would be the FG or FG20. These are seriously underappreciated and undervalued (about $85 today), because they followed in the wake of Nikon's EM debacle (and have that Canon AE-1 inspired chromed plastic finish). But they are really really nice to work with: small, light, unobtrusive, quieter shutter than the FE2 or FM2, and incredibly huge bright high magnification viewfinder for easy composing and focusing. The meter display is a hybrid of FE and FM: the same printed scale as the FE, but instead of an invisible needle the speed in AE is indicated by an LED lighting up next to the set shutter speed. In manual mode, tou match a green follow pointer to the lit LED, which also gives an intuitive indication of how many stops off you are (great for manual exposure compensation). The FG with pancake 50/1.8 is one of the smallest film SLRs you can carry, and isn't much bigger with a 28 or 35 on it.

 

Another thing to consider is whether you really need the improvements of the FE2 and FM2: if you can live without 1/2000 and 1/4000 shutter speeds and 1/200 flash sync, the original FE and FM are identical to them in function and performance at much lower cost. The older models top out at 1/1000 shutter speed and 1/125th flash sync, and the FE doesn't have the TTL flash feature of the FE2. The FM has a slightly less elegant LED finder display than the FM2, and doesn't have interchangeable focus screens. The original FE and FM are dramatically less pricey than the FM2 or FM2N, often selling for half the price: shop carefully, and you could own both FM and FE for the price of an FE2.

I think both the FE2 and FM2n were available new at about the same time. The FM2 was introduced first then the FE2 and then the FM2n but you can't say for sure if one is newer than the other.

I think the price they asked for the FM2n was way over priced. Given the only 2 choices I would definitely go for the FE2.

Aperture priority? Don't want to spend a fortune? Don't laugh- look at the FG. Common as dirt and surprisingly good if you get a good one.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who sees the FG as a bit of a "diamond in the rough" among these cameras. It even has a full program mode if you're so inclined!

 

Since we went there, another one to look at is a bit further into the 80s, but is one I almost never see discussed-the N2000. It gives you the same full program mode as the FG. The meter display is actually pleasant to use match-LED improvement on the FG with the numbers illuminated. One slightly polarizing point on it-it has a built in motor drive(not particularly fast-maybe 1.5fps) that's a bit noisy, and it's too "techy' feeling for many people.

While I love my F100(and my F6, which basically feels like an update/improved F100 with a more intuitive custom function menu) I don't think it's a great choice for use with MF lenses.

 

Why? The electronic rangefinder on my F100 (and F6) is excellent, better than my eyes. I enjoy using old-timey cameras, and if I could have only one SLR it'd be a plain prism F2, but the F5, F100 & F6 are more capable than all of them.

Edited March 15, 2020 by leo_papandreou|1

I bought an FE2 two years ago. Trashed it after it fell 4 ft on the lawn. Base crumpled like a tin can. Been abusing my F100 for going on 10 yrs, still looks beautiful and works flawlessly.

KEH had an FA in EX cond. for $200. Ordered it along with 85 mm 2.0 AI lens, SB20 flash, 3 rolls of Superia 400, and an instruction manual - $500 incl. shipping - about the price of one FM2n. Good start to get back into film. Not a film vs. digital argument, just a different medium. In addition to being "stick shift Stanley," I grind my coffee beans fresh in the morning, then use a stove top espresso pot for brewing. Guess you know where I'm coming from and the desire to get back into a manual focus film camera. Tactile touch or whatever. I'll be posting the results here. Thanks. Gene

Are we reaching a point where the meters on older cameras are going to be unreliable more often than not?

I have a Nikormat pushing 50 and two F4s bodies pushing 30. Film is so expensive now that I am not convinced that its worth the risk.

As well Fuji mirrorless cameras have film emulation.

I would advise checking your FA out thoroughly with film as soon as it arrives.

 

Mine has a pesky problem where it will randomly deliver a blank frame. It's difficult to spot, as sometimes I can shoot 3 rolls in a row without a problem, and at other times it will drop every other frame or sometimes two in a row. It's unpredictable enough that I'm afraid to use it-especially after it "burned" me dropping a frame of Provia that I thought would be a sure keeper when I hit the shutter.

 

Also, the FA has an F3-inspired tiny LCD in the viewfinder for its meter read-out. Some people love this, while some like me find it incredibly difficult to use.

 

When all is working correctly, the FA is a great and very innovative camera. Along with the F4 and F6, it's the only(film) option for matrix with MF lenses.

 

I'll also mention that as much as I love KEH, unless I'm really out of touch with prices that sounds like a nice pile of money for anything short of a new in box FM2n. Mine have all been in the $175-250 range and shoot perfectly, with at least one that I'd class as a KEH EX. I passed on an EX+ if not LN- FM2/T at a local shop for $350 last year.

I would advise checking your FA out thoroughly with film as soon as it arrives.

 

Mine has a pesky problem where it will randomly deliver a blank frame. It's difficult to spot, as sometimes I can shoot 3 rolls in a row without a problem, and at other times it will drop every other frame or sometimes two in a row. It's unpredictable enough that I'm afraid to use it-especially after it "burned" me dropping a frame of Provia that I thought would be a sure keeper when I hit the shutter.

 

Also, the FA has an F3-inspired tiny LCD in the viewfinder for its meter read-out. Some people love this, while some like me find it incredibly difficult to use.

 

When all is working correctly, the FA is a great and very innovative camera. Along with the F4 and F6, it's the only(film) option for matrix with MF lenses.

 

I'll also mention that as much as I love KEH, unless I'm really out of touch with prices that sounds like a nice pile of money for anything short of a new in box FM2n. Mine have all been in the $175-250 range and shoot perfectly, with at least one that I'd class as a KEH EX. I passed on an EX+ if not LN- FM2/T at a local shop for $350 last year.

I ordered three rolls of Fuji superia 400 along with the camera. Will immediately run a test. I wanted the FM2n but the price was outrageous along with $619 fir a ‘bargain’ FM3a. Went with the FA for about 1/3 the price!

‘

I'm surprised that the FM2n and FM3a are so tightly together in price too.

 

There again, I have 3 FM2ns because at ~$200 each they are affordable(and they're a nice intersection of weight/quality/features that having multiples lets me have identical bodies with different film types-I usually do slides in a chrome one and B&W in a black one).

 

The FM3a also seems to have come down a bit...that's still a camera that I'd like to have, but have a hard time justifying it. I have the lens that was developed for it :) (the 45mm f/2.8 AI-P)

I have the FE-2 and it works quite well. Auto mode seems effective though I shoot nearly everything in manual. I saw the F100 mentioned but not the N90S. I have two of those and find them to be lightweight with fast enough frame rate and focus to do any kind of shooting. Works well with manual focus too.

 

Rick H.

You might want to consider a later model Nikkormat such as the FT3 or a Nikkormat EL. If you can afford it an FM3a sort of combines the best of the FM and the FE into one camera.

I have both camera's. I like my FM2-N, but I love my FE2. Not sure why, maybe it's the size ?(the FE2 is a little smaller/quieter). The reason I bought both cameras is because back in the days of film, I didn't want to get stuck out there without a camera when the temperatures hit below zero degrees. However, you can put the FE2 on 1/250 shutter speed which turns it into a fully mechanical camera like the FM2 except without all the additional shutter speeds .

 

The FM2 in my opinion has one of the most accurate aperture meters of any mechanical camera and yes most digital cameras. But for street photography you can't go wrong with the FE2 with auto aperture. That's one less step you have to worry about. They both take the same pictures if you were wondering. It depends on the lens.

 

I'm not sure what listing you were looking at ( FM2-N @ $483 !!) are you sure you were not looking at the FM3-N ? I got my FM2 in Mint condition for less than $200 ...

About 10 years ago I was buying and selling a lot of older Nikons. Buying large lots on eBay, cleaning and testing, selling the items I didn’t want. Must have gone through a couple dozen FEs and FE2s. Granted, that was 10 years ago, but with new batteries, foam, a cleaning and a workout, they all worked great.

I'm not sure what listing you were looking at ( FM2-N @ $483 !!) are you sure you were not looking at the FM3-N ? I got my FM2 in Mint condition for less than $200 ...

 

I've not paid over ~$250 for an FM2n and have bought them for under $200, but at the moment at BGN black one from KEH is indeed $350.

 

At that money, I'd opt for the $300 F2AS they have instead!

Forget an FA. Most unreliable camera Nikon ever made.

 

The FE2 is actually better made than an FM/FM2, and at nearly half the price it's a no-brainer. However, neither the FM2 nor the FE2 have metering that's completely reliable - by design. Basic CW averaging in both cases.

 

I really noticed a higher proportion of good exposures when I bought an F801s (N8008s) after using an FE and F2. I also had an FM at the time, which was rarely used. Whether that tells you anything or not I don't know, but the FE and F2 are much nicer cameras to use than a tinny feeling FM, IMO.

Seeing KEH's current pricing on the FM2 made me head over to Ebay to see if prices were mirrored there.

 

A quick observation shows that $350 gets a very nice/near perfect one with a 50mm f/1.4. Ones with a little wear(what KEH calls BGN grade) can be had for ~$200ish, and sometimes even with a 50mm f/1.8 for that price. The stereotypical "untested, estate sale, with a bag full of stuff" camera is in the $150-200 range.

 

That's pretty much in line with what I've paid for FM2ns over the past few years.

 

I've always known that I was paying a bit of a markup at KEH over Ebay prices, and I've always gladly done it since it was often ~10% or less and knew that I could count on them. Those kind of markups are a bit ridiculous to me, though.