andylynn

Classic is like porn. We know it when we see it. An XD11 has autoexposure modes and only one shutter speed works without a battery, but it’s obviously classic. An EF-M is manual focus but it’s otherwise part of the EF system and it’s modern. Etc.

A Z5 isn't outdated. Yes, there's newer tech on the market and a Z6ii has advantages. But for the budget, and the trip you're talking about, a Z5 with the 24-200 would be perfect. Just bring extra batteries. An R6 is better if you want to shoot 4k video or place a high value on eye-tracking AF, but for travel photography either an R6 or a Z5 would be equally good.

Honestly I'd take my Z7 with AF and EVF and carry extra batteries over a digital rangefinder...

A game engine isn't the right tool for the job if you're trying to replace product photography. What you want is a ray trace lighting engine and a reasonably skilled artist. The technology, and people who are good at using it, have been easily accessible for more than 15 years.

Today near my house

NX Studio is quite good. Also, Google Capture One Free Nikon. It’s just as good but the interface is different - you might prefer one or the other.

Does that really work? I never had a camera with pixel shift but I’m always seeing people saying it’s so hard to stabilize the camera well enough or finda scene still enough that they don’t bother.

I know there's at least one other major company in Japan that's just called Fuji, and there's a Fuji Corp. in the industrial electronics space, so Fujifilm still needs to differentiate and might have trademark issues if they dropped the "film". But yeah, if I wanted medium format, Fuji GFX would be an obvious choice. Reasonably priced, as medium format digital goes. Not too huge. And there's a lot of synergy between the GFX line and the APSC line (e.g. software compatibility, interfaces, film modes) which makes it very usable. But the images from the Z7 are so good I don't feel a need for a larger sensor, and though I'm a bit jealous of my friend's GFX100 I'm not jealous of the fact that it cost him $10k.

My Z7 takes both Nikon and 3rd party EL15 and newer. I never had a Nikon that wouldn’t take a 3rd party battery (and I’ve had a lot of Nikons). A counterfeit is a 3rd party with a Nikon label so I don’t see why it wouldn’t be accepted. (I’ve had a noticeably counterfeit battery but didn’t use it.)

“Dual pixel” af was first used in Canon DSLRs. And it’s not used in all mirrorless. And there’s no reason to think it’s the cause of that guy’s camera having long exposure noise. Three out of four mirrorless cameras he tried did not produce significant long exposure noise, which is evidence that Frans’s hypothesis does not pan out in real world use.

That’s not a mirrorless problem. DSLRs also get long exposure noise. In this case the R5 had more long exposure noise than a Nikon or Sony mirrorless or an older model Canon mirrorless - it’s about the R5, not evidence that mirrorless cameras have an inherent heat problem.

This isn’t a Q-anon board, you can’t just make shit up. You persist in making this claim but have no evidence that supports it. Every single person here with actual experience says you’re wrong. The burden to provide evidence is yours. “Google it” is not evidence, it’s a way of saying you have none.

Did you not see me talk about it for two paragraphs? Show me your “reports.” 10 years with mirrorless and aside from high spec video recording (that DSLRs can’t do either) I’ve never even seen a camera do that. Give us your sources if you think you have any. You are the exact opposite of a skeptic. You have a story you believe and o amount of real world evidence will talk you out of it. You can’t show any reason to believe that this “degradation” exists.

I don't understand your obsession with this "mirrorless sensors overheat causing degradation..." story. It's all I ever see you write about. Yet you have no experience with any mirrorless system and no example of anybody experiencing this problem. Earlier today I watched a video from a guy who shot sixty 3-minute exposures in rapid succession using an M4/3 camera attached to a telescope on a rig. The camera went three hours and not only did it not overheat, he ended up with a great image of a galaxy I'd never heard of. I've never done anything that ambitious but I've used various mirrorless cameras since 2010, tens of thousands of exposures and no problems. My Z7 produces the best, cleanest, highest DR images I've ever seen. Simon Baxter shoots Sony mirrorless and I've lost track of how many publication credits and awards he has. Thomas Heaton recently went all-in on Fuji with both the APSC and medium format and he's not losing any image quality. Annie Leibovitz has had mirrorless in her kit for years and she's not complaining. Steve McCurry's SL2 isn't ruining his shots. I have friends shooting 2,000 exposures with Fuji and Canon mirrorless at weddings with no problems. None of these guys seem to be suffering from heat-induced noise either: Nikon z series Get over it already. If you want image quality, you could have a Z50 kit right now and be getting results far better than your 2004 model DSLR. Or just quit thinking about mirrorless and get a used D7100 - Keh.com will sell you one right now in EX condition for $426.

I don’t remember the Df viewfinder being worse. It might be a bit better, now that I think about it. But the other big drawback is that it has the lower grade AF system like what they put in the D600. There are fewer AF points covering less of the frame.

I've owned a D800 and a Df. I found the Df good, but the D800 more usable. The Df didn't feel as comfortable in my hand. The way they mixed regular and traditional controls never jelled for me. And except for being able to use pre-AI lenses (with an awkward interface where you have to set the aperture on the lens and also on a knob) it is not better for use with manual lenses. I can't understand why they didn't use a split-prism screen, and the metering and focus aid dots are no better. The sensor is very good but it can't do anything the D800 sensor (which is also very good) can't do. Tip: if you don't want such large files, set a button on the D810 to image crop. Hold it and turn a wheel to change the crop. Switch between full and 1.2 crop, and you can get 24mp files with only a slight change in field of view.

I’m an amateur so I don’t have to meet anybody else’s expectations, and to me the best color is what looks good in the image I’m trying to make. (But if I’m doing, say, reproduction of one of my wife’s artworks, I’m shooting a reference card and going the whole nine yards.)

Late to the party here but @alan_varga made the right choice. A D7100 and 35mm is a great kit for somebody who likes a 50mm on 135 film, and the D7100 for that price is a heck of a lot of price/performance.

Tried it on a few images today. Seems pretty good so far, even working on 45mp files in emulation on an M1 Air.

Aside from the differences in lighting and white balance, I don't see much technical difference at this resolution...

I don't think such an adapter exists. You might need an F mount T/S lens and an FTZ adapter. There are also T/S adapters for medium format lenses (e.g. Pentax 645) that add the tilt and shift in the adapter.

The larger hole on the bottom. It mates to a post on certain sling-type camera straps. You press a button on the frob on the strap for quick release. FWIW I have the (substantially less expensive) Smallrig bracket on my Z7, which I think also fits the 6ii/7ii, and it's excellent.

Wow, I haven't used that in years. I wonder how it holds up against newer software.

Interesting problem. Getting a mirrorless that’s small isn’t so hard, but most have a lot of functions that are accessed with the right thumb. Do you have a store nearby that will let you try some out? A Fuji with shutter and iso dials has the obvious advantage of not needing to use thumb wheels for those functions, and they make plenty of lenses that have aperture rings. Or if you want something that’s a direct replacement for your Konica there’s the X100 series. A Nikon Z50 might do the job, or a Sony A6400, but those don’t have quite the same appeal for somebody who likes classic film gear. Some of these (e.g. the Z50) have some functionality to make the right thumb less necessary for choosing the focus point (you can tap the touchscreen to focus, or use the eye detector of shooting portraits etc.) but I think it’s going to be important to try them to see what’s comfortable.

I’ll try ProPhoto. I think everything I use supports that.