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  1. I was given a Voigtlander Bessa-R that looks to be in good condition, especially the mechanical pieces. However the lever doesn't advance. I can depress the shutter button but it doesn't "click" because the advance lever is stuck. Could this be a simple fix? I'd like to repair it to use the camera but I am getting quoted $300 from repair shops to send it off. At this point I am considering selling it for parts but this is a last effort to look into possibly repairing it myself for finding someone on here who could do the repair for much less. My budget to repair is $100. Thank you for the help!
  2. My newly acquired Rollei refuses to focus to infinity by a smidge and caps at a distance of around 20m, as the infinity hard stop prevents me from turning the focusing knob further. Prognosis is that the focusing knob is offset, as a flat object in focus is 3 feet 10 inches away from the focal plane when the focus scale reads 4 feet. Photos closer than 20m appear to be in focus so I can rule out lens board or ground glass misalignment. The question is how do I loosen the focusing knob so I can adjust it? A user in another discussion by the name of ic-racer mentioned that this was possible, but I've yet to find any online resources. My Rollei is the meterless variant by the way. URL to the previous thread: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/can-a-rolleiflex-be-out-of-focus-calibration.156372/
  3. Hi, I recently bought a Minox 35 GT but I am having this issue where the light meter and battery test only work when the camera is wound once. When I wind it a second time (so that is is fully wound and the shutter can be released), then they both stop working and the camera "shuts off". If I release the shutter then I hear a click but the shutter does not open. I have seen lots of posts about shutter issues but I think they usually assume that the light meter works after fully winding the camera so I am not sure that they apply for this problem. Has anybody come across this issue before, and if so, any ideas on how to fix it? Thanks!
  4. hiya fellas! Im currently fixing up a praktica mtl3 ive had laying around for a while now, it has the strangest issue! Whenever the advance lever gets cocked, the curtain "fires", and the mirror stays in place. Now, ive located the issue, or at least part of it, to this little scrap of metal not catching the curtain when the advance lever is pulled. (see image) However, while its nice that i know whats wrong, how the heck do i go about fixing it? ive tried loosening the screw thats on there and lubing up the general area, but to no avail! (ive seen some videos of the shutter in action and that dang piece is supposed to move!) any ideas, tips or references would be greatly appreciated!
  5. The inner taking lens group on a Tokyo Kogaku Primo JR TLR appears frosted or hazy: This on the lens facing the shutter, of the group between the shutter and the film plane. There appears to be corrosion around the rim of the element. It almost appears frosted, like ground glass. The haze is not opaque. There are some specks, but my concern is the haze will cause the image to be blurry/soft and blocks lights. All the other lens faces are clear. This is the opposite of the same lens group - perfectly transparent (the flecks are from the opposite hazy surface. I would expect most surfaces to be in similar condition, with the exposed surfaces being in the worst condition. On the frosted side, the roughness is very even, almost as if it is ground glass. I would have expected chemical etching or contamination to be inconsistent with rough and smooth areas. Here is the lens with some isopropanol (>90% alcohol) applied to half, drying. As it dries, the even nature of the frosted surface is shown. Based on what I've read, my best bet is some sort of windscreen polishing compound. I've read about soft erasers, alcohol (obviously did not help), vaseline (seems like a horrible idea), fine sand paper, or even baking soda. The next step, of course, is irreversible. If anybody has some other suggestions, comments, or cautions, I'd very much like to hear them before I try to polish this out. Thanks.
  6. Hello everyone, Just made an account and I'm looking for any help I can get. I just got a yashica 35 me and when I got it the battery compartment was corroded and the wires were falling apart. I've successfully cleaned those up, and replaced the wires, and now the light meter functions but I have a problem. To get the needle to move, I have to fiddle with it until it (what I'm guessing,) is balanced. once the needle is in place it works, but as soon as the camera is jostled it drops. I tried to add a video but it's not formatting properly. Does anyone know what might be the issue? I'm a little worried to remove any of the parts around it, because all the shutter release mechanisms are there. Should I just give up and bring it to a repair shop? Thanks!
  7. Guest

    Dell Laptop Support Australia

    Simple steps to reset the battery of Dell laptop for any technical support you can any time call Dell helpline number 1-800-921-785 for more info visit our website here http://dell.numberaustralia.com/
  8. Artist: GEORGE_BRUCKNER; Exposure Date: 2016:08:23 16:34:42; Copyright: GEORGE_BRUCKNER; Make: RICOH IMAGING COMPANY, LTD.; Model: PENTAX 645Z; Exposure Time: 0.016666666666666666 s; FNumber: f/8; ISOSpeedRatings: ISO 200; ExposureProgram: Manual; ExposureBiasValue: 0 MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 50 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 39 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Macintosh;
  9. Software: Adobe Photoshop 7.0;
  10. Exposure Date: 2013:08:02 02:41:43; Make: Canon; Model: Canon PowerShot SX100 IS; ExposureTime: 1/400 s; FNumber: f/4; ISOSpeedRatings: 80; ExposureBiasValue: 0/3; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 10 mm; ExifGpsLatitude: 48 49 48 48; ExifGpsLatitudeRef: R98;
  11. © © 2008-2013, Svetlana Korolyova, All Rights Reserved, No reproduction or other use with express prior written permsision from copyright holder

  12. Software: Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Windows);

    © © 2013, John Crosley/Crosley trust, all rights reserved, No reproduction or other use without express prior written permission from copyright holder

  13. Artist: chetan; Exposure Date: 2013:02:20 17:14:36;
  14. Hi, Still fairly new to film photography. Bought a Nikkor lens from KEH rated in BGN condition to find this hairy, white outline along the rim of an inner element. Could someone with experience view the image and tell me if it is fungus or separation? Thanks, John
  15. My scanner which I bought over 20 years will not initalize. I have beenusing it til a few months ago has been running perfectly. I recently rebuilt my computer and trie to use it. I download the latest version of VueScan and attempted to use it. Since my motherboard does not have firewire I installed a new firewire board. When I connected it to the scanner, it did not see the scanner. Checking in the device manager, it said it was running correctly. To see if I had a software conflict I connected one of my Camcorders to the card and attempted to apture some video I got an error related to microsofts I believe it is called Power Play. I deleted it and tried again, and was able to capture from the camcorder. I then connected the scanner and no go. When I power up the scanner , the green light comes on. A few times when power ing up the scanner during trouble shooting, the scanner would attempt to initalize. I could hear the stepper motors operating, but now nothing. I searched for a service manual for the unit and could only find the 2887 manual. I believe that a apacitor on the power supply board is bad. I would like to get a schematic for the unit if possible. If not I hate to but will have to remove each ca and test it for capacity and internal resistance. I do not trust testing the in circuit . Does anyone know where I can get a schematic either seperate or in a service manual. I see some one has posted this a while back and the respose was contact Sony see if they could get one from them. Thanks, Wayne
  16. Dear Friends, I have a very good Carl Zeiss Jena MC Flectogon 20mm 2.8 lens in very good condition. The aperture blades seem to be stuck wide open. The starry sky picture made with this lens looked like a bunch of doughnuts wide open. I am trying to solve two issues here: better focusing at infinity (obviously) and also would be glad to find experts in the UK, preferably not far from Oxford who could have this lens repaired on a budget. Aperture blades seems to be the only issue here. I am connecting it to my Nikon D500 via an adapter that has a glass element (for obvious reasons) and definitely would need to try this lens on a mirrorless camera. Would be grateful for all your thoughts on aperture blades repair and the infinity focus. Thank you.
  17. Hi Everyone, I am sadly in the depths of repair hell so any help would be great. I have no experience with camera repair beyond being a mechanical engineer and mechanism designer. Thus I thought I would be able to tackle this challenge. However I am very stuck. Background: I bought a Minox 35 ML in great condition but the aperture ring would not turn past 4 to get to the other numbers up to 16. I was only able to spin it from P to somewhere between 2.8 and 4. I found a posting on here from 2003 that made it seem very simple, essentially just loosen 3 screws and tighten a few others. How to repair defective aperture on Minox 35 MB? When I loosened the 3 screws, I then removed what I believe is the focus ring and then the next 3 screws (two are large black screws and one is a set screw that is brass) all seemed very tight. At this point I realized that I could hear various things shaking around as if there were loose screws in the aperture ring assembly. I loosened all 3 screws and was able to lift the aperture ring assembly off the rest of the camera. This is where it gets bad. 4 things immediately fell out of the aperture assembly, 1 white plastic piece, 2 tiny black screws and 1 tiny brass cylinder. I don't know where they came from except that they came from the aperture ring assembly. I want to put everything back together but I don't know how :( I was using the original German repair manual for a diagram but even for me it is too complex to understand. I have uploaded a photo of the relevant diagram but you can download the pdf here: https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Minox-35ML-Repair-Manual.pdf Please help. If you need more photo or details please let me know.
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