bobbudding

I took my first sailplane flight from a grass airfield in Post Mills, VT. In normal years you can go up with a qualified pilot. Unfortunately they still have COVID restrictions in place, so perhaps a flight at another time might be worth a drive.

Yes, the RC/RD will work without batteries in manual mode with no metering. The OP, however, wants aperture priority, so batteries would be required.

I always found that compact Japanese rangefinders from the 1970's were small enough. But I've never wanted to carry a camera in the front pocket of my jeans, so YMMV. Compact 35 Rangefinders Olympus RC Olympus 35 RD You'll either need a battery adapter or short-lived hearing aid batteries because mercury batteries are obsolete. I've been happy with the adapter that I purchased from Frans de Gruijter in The Netherlands. email: battery.adapter@online.nl

Flash is useful for freezing action indoors, if the flash is powerful enough to light 2 or more stops above ambient levels. Outdoors? mpressionz has given excellent advice.

I've used an ExpoDisc to set custom white balances. It's fast and easy. I've also used a WhiBal card to set white balance for processing RAW images. Both work really well. But as several people have mentioned - a sheet of copy paper will be very close to neutral. ExpoDisc 2.0 82mm White Balance Filter V2 WhiBal G7 White Balance Pocket Card

German over-engineering, in this case. Yes, they are beautiful. "The camera consists of more that 1200 separate parts, and required almost 4000 different operations to assemble. A special quality control system was developed by Zeiss Ikon for the Contarex, delaying the introduction of the camera, but ensuring that faulty copies were "practically impossible": Contarex I - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

I shoot sports. That is my use case. Is that so difficult to understand? Not everyone shoots what the average shooter shoots. Sheesh!

It depends on your expectations of quality. Early EVFs were dreadful, and the current EVFs I've seen still are inferior to optical finders for shooting sports. They are getting better, but they aren't there yet.

I've done street photography with a Crown Graphic (daytime, no flash). It's fun, so don't let the nay-sayers dissuade you!

Fantastic camera. I already have one myself, and I highly recommend the IIa for a carry-anywhere camera. Good luck with the sale!

The arguments are intense when the stakes are so low.

Seems that claims are a bit inflated on both sides of this conversation. No, mirrorless cameras do not have superior high-ISO performance. And over-heating is likely not a problem for typical use cases. I'm still waiting for a EVF that I like for shooting sports. And I'd rather not pay the inflated prices for Z-mount lenses. So I'll continue shooting DSLRs.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4338037416_3f5002fe09.jpg I received it for Christmas when I was about 10 years old.

Beware of Newton's Rings when scanning directly on glass. Newton's rings.

Cultists? No, I still use my CS 9000 because I'm scanning my late father's slides and negatives. The IR dust removal saves a lot of spotting time. So snap away with your DSLR if you have spotless film. Life for many other people is a bit more complicated.

I've even shot basketball with a 180mm prime, and I ended up with a great variety of shots. You clearly like zooms, but I find that primes often require a bit more creativity to frame shots. It forces one to move. It does not mean that I don't use zooms, nor does it mean that I carry a bag full of primes. Maybe you should try it sometime.

There have been times when I pop a single prime on my camera and set out for the day. Because sometimes light and nimble are requirements. And it isn't compositionally constraining if you use a bit of imagination.

How was the film scanned? It helps to know what is actually being compared.

The problem with your explanation is that the metering occurs after light has passed through the lens.

Yellow filters are used with B&W film because the film is overly sensitive to blue light, so skies would either get blown out or would lack contrast. Digital sensors don't behave that way, so just edit your images in post production (still best to shoot raw and convert later).

The OP asked a simple question and you guys are back arguing film vs digital. Absurd. It's why so many folks who used to visit have given up on this site.

Alex posted a great deal on servicing a Superb here: Voigtlander Superb Model I - Skopar - Page 2 - PhotographyToday

Here's an excellent site for anyone who actually wants to learn to use flash properly. Strobist: Lighting 101: Introduction

You seem quite anti-flash for someone who claims to use flash. I use Metz flash, and monolights, not Vivitar. So I agree that a flash without variable output is less useful. However, the Vivitar 283 does have variable output if used in 'Auto' mode. So things aren't quite as you present them. I've shot a lot of indoor basketball, often at ISO 6400, so I am well aware of the capabilities of digital sensors. And I've dealt with non-black body lights. Fluorescent is not ideal, but passable results are possible with a WB adjustment. But the color problems become obvious when compared to a shot using flash. Sodium vapor is the worst - a WB adjustment will never produce anything approaching natural colors. About the best course is to convert to B&W. Speedlights are underpowered when flash is needed in bright sunlight, but that isn't when most people use flash. Yes, on-camera flash can look bad, but why would anyone restrict themselves to the hot shoe? Shiny skin and cartoon-like black outlines are a sign of an incompetent photographer. And it's why people hire wedding photographers who can produce excellent results using flash.

Do you even use flash? Because flash power is controllable - unless you are using flash bulbs. And stopping down decreases ambient exposure. Yes, you need to bump flash power up - but that's not a problem most of the time. Even speedlights are pretty powerful. And flash allows fine control over how much illumination is from ambient light and how much is from flash. And I didn't propose lengthening shutter speed - unless your goal is to drag the shutter to increase ambient exposure. And, no, custom white balance and bumping up ISO won't solve all problems. Custom WB is fine if your light source behaves like a black body radiator, or if you are happy with the light that you just happen to find. So why not use flash as the valuable tool that it is?