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  1. Hi All, First post from a first-time Leica M owner. I just purchased a Leica M4-2 and decided to do a brief write-up about my first impressions of this beautiful camera. Digital action photog Though a hobbyist now, I have done professional concert and event work in the past. I shot some of my best photos using a Nikon D750 and Tamron 28-75 f2.8 combo, often in a dark and smoke-filled club, crawling around in a narrow photo pit and avoiding drunk crowd-surfers throwing beer cans on the stage. After three years of shooting metal and rock shows and festivals, which took me to a number of different cities and even as far as a few of countries, I decided to focus on my day job and took a long break from serious photography. In the meantime, I bought a Fujifilm X-E3 and a Fuji 23mm f2 and occasionally went out to shoot, nothing major or fancy. Turn towards film I then decided to sell my digital gear and focus on film. The machine gun approach that works in concert (and action) situations--I would routinely end up with 900-1200 frames a concert of 4-5 bands--didn't really work for me any more and I wanted to try something more challenging. I turned to film in hopes of bringing more thought and patience to my photography. I invested in a Nikon FE initially, then quickly added two Nikon FMs to my arsenal. My current Nikon FM is perhaps my favorite SLR of all time. I then added a Nikon 35mm f2 and started focusing on documentary-type work as a hobby. A couple of years passed by and my day job caught up with me again. Once again, photography took a back seat to whatever else was going on at the time. Until last week. Last week, I decided to celebrate my birthday with a nice toy, one that would hopefully inspire me to start shooting again and to potentially push my photography into new territory. In comes the Leica I had been wanting a Leica M rangefinder for a long time but never really seriously looked into buying one, until last week. I did a bunch of research, read a lot of reviews and user posts, and compared different models. I then decided that the M4-2 was the perfect machine for me. The all-black aesthetics and humble origins of this model kind of made me fall in love with it from the beginning. The history behind the M4-2 was also appealing to me and definitely played a factor in my decision to go for it. Luckily, I found one in excellent condition online and pulled the trigger. A few days later, a FedEx box arrived. Below I share my review of this camera and some of my thoughts. First impressions The camera immediately feels like a brick in my hands. It is sturdy and has excellent build quality, just what I expected from a Leica. The viewfinder is crystal clear and bright, the 35mm framelines are at the edge of the frame (I wear glasses) but work well enough for my eyes. The film advance lever has just the right amount of tension to it and is smooth. The shutter speed dial is firm and snappy, and the rewind crank is smooth. I was pleasantly surprised by the Leitz stamp as it has been stamped deeper than I thought it would be based on the reviews I had read. It is exactly like the Fujifilm stamp on my X-E3 (but of course much larger and more aesthetically pleasing). The shutter button is perhaps the smoothest and quietest I have ever had on any camera. It is simply a joy to use. In terms of overall quality, the M4-2 is the best camera I have ever held in my hand and I feel confident taking it everywhere and using it in any situation. Hands-on experience The camera is a joy to shoot with. I am using a Voigtlander 35mm f2.5 Color Skopar with it and have been very impressed with how smoothly this combo operates out in the wild. The rangefinder focusing mechanism, though new to me, is a ton of fun compared to the SLR/DSLR mechanisms I have used in the past. There is a lot more emphasis on precision and it all requires a little more work to get right. As a result, I find myself slowing down even more as I get a hang of it all. I am also still getting used to the longer minimum focusing distance afforded by a rangefinder camera but don't necessarily see this as a negative. I also really like the rapid film loading feature present in this and other M models. In some ways, I find it easier to load film this way than the classic SLR method. Limitations There are a couple of things about the camera I don't like. First, the vulcanized rubber, while nice and comfortable, does feel a little too much like my cheaper SLRs. This is something that has been mentioned many times over in the past and is due to the cost-cutting measures taken up by Leica during the production of the M4-2 and M4-P. There are a couple of small chips in the rubber in the bottom edges so I hope it will hold up long term. I am also not a huge fan of the frame counter with the plastic dome and wish it was real glass or made from a sturdier material. All in all, I am very happy with my purchase even though I could have paid less for a more banged-up copy of this model. Looking ahead, I am already considering buying an M6 TTL or M4 black along with a Summicron 50mm. Or I might decide to go with the Summicron and just keep shooting with the M4-2 for life. Decisions, decisions. I am currently shooting my first roll of film and hope all will turn out fine and that this machine won't need a service or repair anytime soon.
  2. A FORMER SALT WAREHOUSE ON THE MONTGOMERY CANAL
  3. ENTRANCE TO THE BISHOP'S PALACE, WELLS
  4. mitchiko

    Millennial Pink

    Megan, NYC 2017
  5. mitchiko

    Women

    Double Exposure
  6. I'm looking for an older Mamiya Six folder parts camera, to salvage the rangerfinder assembly. I was doing some cleaning up of my own Mamiya Six Automat folder, and stupidly "wiped off" the half silver from beam splitter in the rangerfinder. It needs to be the slightly newer models with square rangerfinder window, and the rangefinder should be in good working order. Anything else about the parts camera, I don't care. Thank you!
  7. I recently bought a Fuji 680iii and find that the rangefinder patch isn’t very defined. Does anyone know/has anyone every replaced a ranger finder and put that of another camera in its place? I have the Mamiya 7s rangefinder in mind.
  8. Up for sale a Kodak Retina IIa 35mm rangefinder folder with Schneider-Kreuznash Xenon 50mm 1:2 lens in Synchro Compur shutter. The camera is fully functional and is in excellent state. The shutter speeds are accurate, the lens is pristine, the coupled rangefinder is calibrated. It comes with its original brown leather bag. Price: 100 euro plus shipping. I can accept paypal or bank transfers.
  9. Selling the following camera due to switching. It is the rare last version of the Type 240, with approximately 700 pieces produced (the anthracite grey paint finish looks really good in real life) It functions perfectly (I had no trouble with rangefinder accuracy with Canon LTM lenses) and nearly new cosmetically with very minimal signs of wear, see pictures (can take more if needed). Approximately 5000 shutter actuations since new. Link to the pictures Price: 2800€ including shipping within the EU. The sale includes the original box with all the original accessories and documents, plus the invoice. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a message (I can take more pics if needed or provide feedback, etc.). Thanks for looking.
  10. Hi, I've recently acquired a Canon P as part of a haul from a local garage sale. It has these interesting blue/green spots all around (I believe it is verdigris?) Is there an easy way to safely remove this? Does verdigris spread over time? Thanks in advance, John
  11. I have a question about the focus smoothness (or lack thereof) on my pre-war 6x9 Super Ikonta. I purchased it from Certo6 via eBay last month. Everything seems to be in great working order, except for the focus wheel. It does turn, and it is actually smooth at the near and far ends of the focusing range. However, the middle ~ 30% of the focusing range is somewhat stiff. If I had gotten this in as-is condition, I would probably not even be worrying about it (at least, not until/unless it got much worse). However, I paid a CLA price for this thing, not an as-is price. Is it asking too much for the focus wheel to be perfectly smooth? I'm interested to hear the thoughts of those on this forum with much more knowledge/experience with these old rangefinders than I have.
  12. Hi everyone, I posted a while back asking for a rangefinder recommendation and landed on the FED-2. I just picked up a Jupiter-12 from an ebay seller for not too much, and it looks to be in fine shape, save for a few things: there seems to be some smudges/fingerprints on the rear element and a few tiny scratches. How should one go about cleaning this protruding rear element? Is using a blower + wiping with lens tissues okay? Also, how worried should I be about these scratches? They're hard to see, unless in bright light. I've heard that the protruding element is closer to the focal plane, so scratches there could really impact photos (unlike ones on the front element). Thanks in advance!
  13. Hi, I picked up a Jupiter 8 lens from a garage sale for next to nothing, since it looks to be in mint condition. I've been reading online and wanted to gather some opinions on a viable rangefinder body to use with it. To my understanding, it is an M39 mount lens. I want a rangefinder body that is: - Fully mechanical with no meter. I prefer clarity with Sunny 16. - Reliable, and serviceable by a technician (Any recommendations welcomed!) - Swing back door as this makes film loading easier. - A film winding lever instead of one of those knobs I've seen. I don't want to break my wallet and get a Leica, so that's off the table. I've heard that Russian rangefinder copies are unpredictable when it comes to quality/experience. Has anyone had any experience with Japanese copies of the Leicas? Maybe a Canon P or something like that?
  14. I recently bought a Canon A35 Datelux and everything seems to be working right. My only concern is that the shutter won't fire sometimes, even when the flash is on. Is this how it's supposed to be? I thought in low light, with the flash on, the shutter would still fire. Thanks.
  15. There's a new digital rangefinder available, coming out of France, from a company called Pixii. I can't remember where I first came across this, but I started following them on social media after their development announcement, and it seems that the camera is finally available to order. It's a digital rangefinder with Leica M Mount. It seems to be designed around a usage scenario where it is used alongside a smartphone (seems sensible, IMO). Launch price is €2700. Just curious to know what other forum members think of this. A challenging time to be launching a new camera. PIXII - Digital rangefinder camera And for full disclosure - I have no affiliation with them whatsoever.
  16. Let me first start off by saying that I am completely new to cameras on any technical basis, so maybe some of my questions are fairly obvious to many but not to me. So I bought this camera earlier this year, it is a Vitomatic II, seems to work great other than the light meter and the rangefinder. So far I've been snapping photos with it but have to just guesstimate the distance. That has worked fine for the most part and has resulted in some very crisp photos but also in many blurry unfocused ones as well. I've gotten these below: and blurry ones like these: The light meter doesn't seem to respond to different amounts or intensities of light. It stays closer to the top and i have never seen it move anywhere on the bottom half of its range. It seems to move as i move the camera around but only from the force exerted by my movement, so i'm not sure if its stuck or how to go about making sure it is working properly. Does it utilize a battery of any sort? if so where would i get a replacement battery? At first we thought the camera was flawed because when taking a picture changing the focus didn't affect the view finder, which in our experience with other cameras, was always the case. With some research we discovered that the view finder would display a double image so that you can adjust the focus until there was a single image and that that's how that works. Upon closer inspection to the camera I noticed a faint glare in the middle of the yellowish circle and that it moved when I moved the focus. I could not see a double image but I could see that it was in the shape of the window area behind and between two objects that I was looking at and i was able to adjust it to its place and find an accurate range. The problem is that it is so faint that you would never see it when outside. Is this common? is there something I can do to make the image appear clearly and easily so that I can use the rangefinder when out in the world? It would be nice to get some clean shots without wondering how they were going to come out. Also I don't understand how to use the ASA or the DIN numbers or really understand what they do. What do the different VXM settings do they are colored but i can't seem to use the numbers after B in green even when i'm on V (which is green). The circular knob thing that you use to wind in new film has a bunch of letters on it, what do they do and how do you use them? So that is all I can think of at the moment, but any help understanding this camera will be greatly appreciated.
  17. The camera is a thing of beauty from European craftsmanship of years ago. The lens is a Color Skopar 50mm f2.8 This set is in great shape. This camera came from my friend who cleaned out his father's house and found many antiques. I think this must have been one is his prized possessions because he kept the boxes, manuals and even the receipt. It was purchased in 1958 at Universal Photo Service, La Crosse, Wisconsin for $89.95 according to the receipt. The camera has some quirky features. To change the film, there is not a door that swings open, but a two-part back. The camera was built to avoid double exposures, but his also results in the that the shutter will not release if there is no film in the camera. This point baffled me for a while, but I finally READ THE MANUAL AND learned about this feature. So I loaded a roll of film and then YES, the shutter release worked fine. The leather case is nice and soft. GERMANY is stamped on the bottom. There is a tiny rectangular plastic item in the case. It took me a long time to figure out what it could be. Well, it is a cover for the sellinum cell on the front of the camera. The accessory is a Blitzer 200 for flash photography with flash bulbs. This has a little zipper case and a box. This is a nice camera set.
  18. hello, I use polarizing filters on SLR cameras. I rotate those, and I find when I can see the polarization effect, for example, sky is darker. Then I understand, that is the position of the ring, when I get the polarization effect. Now, how about rangefinders? I noticed on some of my filters, there are small marks. If I rotate the ring, so that those two marks are horizontal, and if I draw a line between those, that would be a line of a horizon, then the polarization will have effect on shots. However recently I got a b+w filter which has no such marks. How can I find out in which position to use it, given that I use a rangefinder camera?
  19. i've never used a rangefinder before but have used a slr, and have never had any trouble with the viewfinder. Ive read that glasses have a significant effect on the shooting experience with a rangefinder. i can get a bessa r3m(1.0x) rignt now and im very temped to just go for it, but scared that i might not be able to properly use it properly. what do you guys think should i wait for a r2m(.7x) or just go for the r3m?? my vision is -3.5 and my glasses lens are relatively thin
  20. Hello, I am in a bit of a predicament with my Konica Hexar RF. The ISO dial on my Hexar RF body has snapped off, leaving the camera in "DX" mode. It's also a bit ugly without the ISO dial. I am posting in hopes that maybe someone here owns a Hexar RF body that is broken and would be willing to let me purchase the ISO dial from their body. I have tried numerous sources such as JCH, various repair outlets, and others, with no luck. If anyone here can help, it would be much appreciated! Thanks.
  21. Hi all I've officially decided to part with my Contax G2! The total package is: Contax G2 rangefinder body TLA Flash 200 Planar 45mm lens Biogon 28mm lens Sonnar 90mm lens (3) Three hoods for each lens Contax camera strap Perhaps you may know people or friends of friends, mutual of mutuals who would be interested ☺️ I've also attatched some recent work I've shot with this beauty. Serious inquires only please❣️ Moderator Note: Thread moved from Classic Film Cameras Forum
  22. Hello All, It has come to my attention that all of my scans have white dots scattered across the negative after being scanned. Most visible is in images with a lot of sky –– then the sky is littered with these annoying white dots. I try to keep the camera pretty clean and have tried different high quality labs so I don't think it's a developing issue. The only things I can think of is that I switch the film from being in and out of the fridge every so often (too many temperature changes...??) and the flatbed epson v700 scanner I use is pretty old. Has anyone else experienced this issue? It is costing me a lot of extra editing time. Thanks for your help! I have attached an example detail and increased the contrast so you can see how bad of an issue this is...
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