robert_ante

Simple excellent composition…very well done.

Finally MTC! A close up picture of your charming camera carrier. Lucky guy!

Very nice. I feel that the darkness of the plants in the lower left quarter balance the very bright upper quarter. Slight cropping of the bright light at top would also remove the top upper right quarter edge of slightly dimness, thus making that quarter brighter and balance lower left even more. If drawing one could remove ropes, etc., but unless set up still life, photographer deals with found objects. This is what makes photography both different and difficult.

I have owned several models of Minox 35 cameras. My experience has been the unreliability of electronics making the cameras inoperable. In terms of build quality and reliability, the Minox 35 has nothing in common with Minox 8x11 cameras. My Rollei 35 has never failed me. The Rollei 35 is tough…mine has been knocked about and dented, but still works. I have never found the Rollei 35 awkward in use. However, an essential part of the camera for ease in case using is the Rollei 35 wrist strap, which fits into slot at side of camera. Don’t buy a Rollei 35 without wrist strap.

Just a note. The Zeiss Foundation was not established under US occupation authorities. The Zeiss Foundation was established by Abbe, relatives of the Zeiss family, and Mr. Schott to contributed their ownership shares to provide scientific research, especially in optical sciences as well as welfare for workers (Zeiss was a pioneer in the eight hour working day and paid vacations). With takeover of Russians and later nationalization of Zeiss in DDR, the courts decided that Zeiss continued to be under the foundation and therefore proper owners of Zeiss trademarks.

I have the Makina 67. From what I understand, the camera must be very carefully and slowly opened for use, and Permitting it to pop open. Rough handling could possibly been the culprit by creating a separation of bellows from body. I don’t have manual in fron of me, but it seems to me that there was a warning about letting bellows snap open.

From the perspective of my own shooting habits, 35mm is used more freely and spontaneously when compared with shooting 120, and 45 much more conservatively. Twelve shots per 120;roll is just about right. Thirty six or 24 fits the way I shoot 35. With 45, while I carry four or five film holders seldom do I use all of them. However, 36 Minox 8x11 seems to take me forever to shoot a roll of 36 frames. As for cost, all art supplies are relatively expensive. This includes digital, since every time I meet friends who shoot digital, they want to show me their latest camera upgrade. I still use cameras and other equipment I bought in the mid 1960s.

I have never noticed any special resistance, but there probably is some as backing paper separates from the feed spool. So, the same question remains as previous comment.

I have a very nice Super Ikonta A. With Ilford film impossible to see anything. Tried Fomapan, much better but still difficult to see numbers. Perhaps over the years the red window became darker. Then I remembered that my Hasselblad backs for 1000F had no red window. So I cut out a bit of red window in order to see numbers. The Super Ikonta has a sliding cover to shade film once wound; the old Hassy backs had a folding cover. Will this work? Haven’t developed film yet to see if any light leaks.

My wife’s family, Kwan, believe that all are related to Guan Yunchang. I know that there are temples devoted to him, but was never aware of the existance of his tomb.

I acquired a Super Ikonta A 531. Late model with coated Tessar lens. Camera is in immaculate condition. , ....except....Except for the common condition afflicting these cameras viewfinder frame lines have. completely vanished. I assume that replacement finders for 6x4.5 cameras are not available. I was considering attaching a mask of some sort to the front lens of viewfinder for 6x4.5 negative. I can do without viewing what is outside the frame. If such a mask were possible, what would be its dimensions? Which is better, to mount on inner or outer surface of VF's front lens? A view slightly smaller than would appear on negative. would be preferred to one showing more There is an old thread on this topic, but suggestions were to use white ink to draw lines, but no mention o the dimensions of rectangle or placement with regard to frame holding front lens. I believe a mask would be simpler, but I am open to any suggestions.

Thanks all. For me, two windows would be a distraction, so I am exchanging for later camera with only one red window.

So is the camera in question a 520? Or were some 531s made with two windows?

I am getting a Super Ikonta A 531 with two red windows, which I assume are for 120 and 620 film, but I don’t know which is which. So, looking at camera from the back, which red window is for 120 film? (Doubt If shall ever use 620. Feeding Medalist is enough bother)

Beautiful camera. Hasselblad succeeded because of its superior design. Long ago I had a 1000. With adapters a wide selection of lenses by Zeiss, Leitz, and Nikon was available. However, the shutter mechanism was extremely fragile when new, let alone with passage of time. Also instructions in manual must be followed to the letter. After mine died, I had to wait for a long time for arrival of 2000FCM. With repairs and maintenance of 2000FCM now nonexistent, I am awaiting its death.

Very interesting pictures. Where is Lijiang, and what ethnic group?

Even a digitally shot movie must be transferred to film for storage and archival purposes. Storing a movie on film is much, much cheaper than storing digitally. Film can be kept in abandoned mines with constant temperatures at very little cost.

I experimented with a 6x9 folder, but found it to be unwieldy in handling. I use a Super Ikonta B 6x6, and a 6x7 folder, which I find easier to handle than 6x9. ZI made the most robust lens erecting mechanism for folders, which is something to keep in mind when considering old cameras.

When using steel reals for 120, I use a steel guide that fits in the palm of the hand. Never a problem. Been using same one for about 50 years.

Have no idea what this is, or how it relates to title.

Nor does the partially hidden hand bother me. When shooting, we take what we can get. For me, a formal portrait would not be as interesting as this “live” portrait.

I have both M3 and M4. I have the 35mm Summicron with goggles for M3. Have owned both cameras since the 1960s. The goggles give the vf a nice bright large image. Bought the M3 used from Willy Schwartz’ Camera View Central near Grand Central Station. Does anybody remember him? What a good and kind man. For my. Practice in picture taking I don’t need super fast film loading, so that difference between 3 and 4 is not crucial.

Just want to emphasize the importance of buying from a reputable dealer. This is key.! And will save you money. I bought my 2.8F used in 1973. After 50+ years of use, it’s been one of my cheapest cameras to own. I have one crucial bit of advice: make sure you also get a fitted leather case for your camera. These cameras are heavy, with plenty of inertia if they bump into something. While holding infant, my cased Rollei dropped from chest height on to asphalt parking lot. Rattle, rattle. Turned out only damage was shearing of the little pin that holds clasp to close camera. These cameras are rugged, but get a case. The Rollei cases do not impede using camera. Other than a lubrication, this has been my only service for all these years. Oh, yes. The meter at long last is kaput. But a handheld meter or calculator is a better choice anyway.

I have accumulated Leica IIIa, IIIc, IIIf, M3, M4, and M5. Except for M3 and M4, all were gifts which one is my favorite? The one that I am using at the time!