steve_gallimore1

The adapted lens will be 'dumb' as far as the camera is concerned, so it's entirely down to the adapter and the lens. Any chance that it's a 'fly by wire' lens and the aperture control is electronic? In which case, I suspect that you're out of luck...

X-T10, Hexanon 135/3.5

They Come Out When It RAINS!!!!! (with a bit of help from Rawtherapee's "HorrorBlue" LUT) Or, with an inverted s-curve: Olympus TG-320 in "Super Macro" mode, so not even remotely 'Macro' Scary stuff - if you happen to be a mushroom.

This could be a good starting point: Noise Reduction - RawPedia

Spare batteries, more convenient and take up less space than a charger, but one battery will do me for a couple of days normally (mirrorless digital). Film camera as backup?

I'd just remembered and was about to suggest that ^

Yes and yes, though I imagine it depends on the mirrorless system in question. I have the setting mapped to a function button on my Fujis, as it's something I toggle fairly often - mostly I want the image 'as shot', but studio flash, I want 'max brightness'. In any auto mode, it's 'as shot', naturally.

My mk1 is nice and smooth, no harder to focus than any vintage lens, 'pops' well enough on the EVF to not really need peaking (which is often a little off). Works particularly well with the 'electronic rangefinder' option on X-trans 2 and later sensors, I've shot lots of candids in dimly lit bars with my X-T10. An ICU nurse was able to get 3/3 perfectly focussed photos of me holding my son at f1.2, ISO 2000 ~1/40 sec. So, all in all, I'd say it works well on mirrorless cameras. The EVF will gain-up as you stop down, so it remains bright, peaking shows a swathe of highlighting across the focus zone. I've successfully focussed my Konica 50mm f1.4 on a Fuji digital in 'can't see my hand in front of my face' conditions, the EVF lags and becomes grainy, but nothing beats being able to see in the dark.

E-PM1, 17/2.8

Fancy a Twingo? E-PM1, 17/2.8

If you put insulating tape on all the contacts except the central trigger, what happens? I don't know what will happen, never tried, as I said earlier, my flashes are 'dumb' with only a trigger pin, but it might work, if the flash isn't so smart that it refuses to fire when told to. Or try a PC sync cable with a hot shoe adaptor? I use one to trigger either my flashes or the Xpro controller on film cameras with no hot shoe. Edit, just tried and my Nikon FE successfully triggers my XproF(uji) controller, so taping off the other pins or using an adaptor should work.

I was suggesting both flash and camera firmware, always worth trying. Otherwise, try contacting Godox? Can't really help more than that, all my Godox flashes are 'dumb' TT600 that just work on anything, only the controller is camera specific and has never given me a problem (Fujifilm).

Probably swollen. Lay it down on a flat surface, does it spin if you flick a corner? Replace it.

Interesting, so they are optically different. I hadn't thought to look on 7artisans own website... I might actually be tempted to get the mk2 now, closer focus and an aperture ring with stops had me interested, different formula means it's a different lens, also interesting...

Found this comparison: 7Artisans 35mm F1.2 II for Sony E mount test/review on Sony Alpha Blog Appears the mark 2 has better coatings, closer focussing and a clicky aperture, optically looks to be more a matter of taste and sample variation?

X-T10, Lomo T-43 40mm f4

Some from the Mk1: --- --- --- --- --- --- All Fuji X-E1 or X-T10

For what it's worth, I think that my 'effort' (3) - Rawtherapee 4.2 (so 2014) on auto, is far too cold, I actually prefer the original!

Have you tried updating to the latest firmware?

Opened in Rawtherapee. Selected 'Auto' white balance

I didn't do an exhaustive search, just grabbed a few figures. I didn't include the EFCS figure for the Sony either, 0.023 sec. There is a finite limit as to how fast you can move a mechanical shutter (and flip a mirror), we've probably reached it. I can never remember which Sony or Canon are the fast ones, silly naming scheme... Shutter lag is basically a non-issue, these things are inhumanly fast.

Anyway, to respond to the question of shutter lag: (All figures autofocus/prefocussed) Nikon D5 0.132 / 0.039 Nikon D500 0.170 / 0.049 Pentax K5ii 0.225 / 0.091 Sony A7ii 0.265 / 0.101 Fuji X-T2 0.053 / 0.033 All mechanical shutter. Times from imaging-resource.com As to inverting the image, it's a trivial task for the processing hardware and could actually be accomplished without any processing at all, just wire the evf backwards with respect to the sensor! Next. (Edit, corrected d5 figure)

Ok, now that make no sense whatsoever. Do you really believe what you're writing, or is the goal simply to troll?

And I think Ed has hit the nail on the head there. Until then, all of that legendary RF glass (Leitz, Zeiss, et al) could only be used on RF bodies, aside from the flange focal distance, many RF lens designs have rear elements closer to the film plane than would be permitted by the flappy mirror in an SLR. So to use those lenses, you had to be a member of the RF club, with it's entry price... Then along came mirrorless digital bodies, with no flappy mirror and a shorter FFD than any rangefinder. You can mount almost any lens with a cheap adaptor and used ones start from €50 (these days). So now anyone can use those fabled lenses... So the only reason to want a digital rangefinder is for the optical rf focussing and the direct vision viewfinder. The latter can be approximated with an accessory finder on any mirrorless camera, the former can be simulated via the sensor's phase detection array. Don't get me wrong, I love beautiful mechanical devices (I'm an engineer), but I understand why there are very few manufacturers of rangefinder cameras these days.

I'm sorry, I don't quite understand what it is you're trying to say? By definition, a rangefinder camera, at least as the term is commonly used, is manual focus. Autofocus systems using the same triangulation principal exist, mostly in compact cameras, or systems such as the Contax G series cameras. These rarely give you an optical confirmation of the focus distance in the viewfinder though. A 'rangefinder' camera is really just a viewfinder (i.e. not through the lens) camera with a rangefinder focussing aid. Digital (autofocus) viewfinder cameras exist, the Fujifilm Xpro series.