steve_gallimore1

AF passthrough aside, it's already been done for some of the other mirrorless mounts, so I'm sure one of the Shenzhen based manufacturers will come out with one soon. As Conrad says, maybe try emailing the usual suspects? If it can be done for Leica M to Sony, Nikon, etc, it can easily be done for F mount, loads more room to work with.

You might even be able to put the optical slave on the not-so-hot shoe and put a bit of white card on the end of a stick out in front of it - assuming that the pop-up flash will physically clear the slave trigger. I've done the card-bounce-to-the-side trick with my Instax cameras, works well, sometimes I only hold it over half the flash, if I want a bit of fill/catchlight.

Fuji X-T10, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8 (M42 mount)

I apologise for the recent lack of cows in this forum. X-T10, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8

Down for me too, yours and mine, error 404

Not an expert in the slightest, but I couldn't see any 35mm SLR cameras, which would push the date earlier in the 50s rather than later, though that depends if this was a store with the latest and greatest, big town/small town, etc.

That's the construction date, not the street number, quite common in Europe until about the 1930s.

Fuji X-T20, Viltrox 33/1.4

These empty houses that litter the Corrèze (and likely the rest of rural France) fascinate me. X-T20, 33/1.4

Thank you! Reading that, I grabbed what I thought was a Staedtler Lumocolor and tried it. It turned out to be a Stabilo OHPen, but it appears to have worked reasonably well, with only a little smearing if I rub hard. I'll get a Lumocolor next time I see one. Sharpies are unusual here, but I think I know of somewhere that might sell them. Thank you again. I'd tried a variety of 'permanent markers', including Stabilo, Pentel and Edding, but without success. Should have thought of the OHPen though, it's normally used for writing on acetate...

1000mm.

I do. But sometimes, I want that stereotypical 'Polaroid' look. I'll try asking Fujifilm.

Spa break: Fuji X-T10, Tamron SP 300/5.6

Now please wash your hands... Fuji X-T10, Hexanon 40/1.8, Rawtherapee, Raspberry Pi

Printing-Nikkor? If you can adapt it to fit...

No, I don't think I agree. Yes, having an identical duplicate is the best 'back-up' option, but in most cases it's both a waste of money (if your 'main' camera is a high-end model) and restrictive, not to mention potentially back-breaking. There is no reason why a second body cannot be both back-up and complementary at the same time. Numerous manufacturers have 'lesser' cameras in their ranges that are 90% of the top spec 'pro' models, they might lack the burst rate/modularity/toughness of the top cameras, but unless your project absolutely requires that missing feature, they will still allow you to bring home results, so they serve their role as a back-up. A back-up is not always required to have 100% of the primary system's functionality, rather the minimum required to finish the task, otherwise it would be a duplicate/secondary system, not a backup. If those 'lesser' cameras are also smaller, lighter or encourage a different style of working, they can also be complementary, performing their own dedicated role, but able to step in to replace the primary camera if needed. How many pros carried a Nikon FM/FE as a back-up to an F series primary camera? Likely fitted with their other lens. How about someone shooting events with a pair of mirrorless digital cameras, one top spec SLR-style body with booster grip, maybe a speedlight and one 'rangefinder'-style body with a complementary lens for candids? In several manufacturers ranges, it's possible for those two bodies to have the same sensor and processing engine, so the results would be impossible to tell apart. In a pinch, either can perform the role of the other, but they are not identical.

Not monochrome, but there is a cloudy (balsam separation) lens here: Guess the lens - a bit of fun.

Thanks, I feel I need to restate that I'm looking for something that works well on Fujifilm Instax prints though, ideally looking for some form of felt marker, but everything I've tried so far doesn't seem to 'set' and will wipe off 24 hours later.

AJG covered it very well above. Pre-set lenses have the two rings, for rapid stop down to the taking aperture, there are also non pre-set lenses, where you set the aperture first, which makes focussing difficult and the screen dim, or do a dance of focus, set aperture, compose, shoot. Worth noting that the pre-set lenses work just fine on mirrorless digital, some automatic stop down lenses, not so. Dave, thanks for confirming my suspicions, I started with Zenits, so that explains why I filed that little snippet of information away.

And yes, that price sounds a little insane, especially considering that there are very few 'bad' 135mm lenses, even the lesser manufacturers made a pretty decent job of this focal length.

Isn't there also a potential issue where some, I think, Super Takumar (Pentax) lenses can jam when mounted on a non-Pentax body? I may be remembering incorrectly though, it's been a very long time since I used anything other than preset M39/M42 screw mount lenses.

Pentacon 135mm f2.8 Will try to find an example photo tomorrow, but it's a classic Zeiss Sonnar formula. Or the Jupiter 9 85mm f2, but the Pentacon is more 'correct' for the Praktica.

Unconventional view: Village abandonné de Clédat, Corrèze. X-E1, 7artisans 35/1.2

Abandoned Village of Clédat, Corrèze Fuji X-E1, 7artisans 35mm f1.2, Rawtherapee

As per the topic title, any suggestions? Tried a variety of markers and gel type ball points, nothing seems to 'set'.