steve_gallimore1

Used it as a buyer. The big advantage for international buyers is that eBay takes care of taxes and import duties, and it's clearly shown on the auction listing, so there are no nasty surprises. The higher price can easily be offset if the item is cheaper than any available locally.

Viltrox offer electronic focal reducers, with protocol translation, EOS to Fuji, m4/3, EF-M, Sony and Nikon Z: Viltrox EF-Z2 Speed Booster Allows Canon EF lenses Used on Nikon Z-mount Mirrorless Cameras Support Eye AF Lens Stabilization So that's closer to what you're thinking of. I think Kipon have some similar options? I don't have the Viltrox adaptor, but I do have a Viltrox 33mm f1.4 autofocus lens in Fuji mount and I'm very pleased with it. They strike me as a company that is trying hard, provide lots of firmware updates and are honest about what does/doesn't work. (and the 33/1.4 is a beautiful lens, it leans more toward character than clinical sharpness, but strikes a good balance, think 'classic fast fifty' and you're along the right lines)

I have my enlarger on a board on top of the bath, trays on another board covering the sink. My bathroom is tiny, with about 70x70cm floor space between the bath and the sink. Definitely not enough room to swing a cat.

Have a look to see if one of the Chinese manufacturers does one for about 1/4 the price? I have a Zohngyii Lens Turbo 2, in EOS to Fuji X mount, bought used for around half the new price. Not that I have any EOS manual lenses (or any EOS at all), but EOS is a good intermediary mount for stuff like m42, or Nikon F. It works as advertised, but performance varies with the lens used. In short, I would say that it works well with short tele lenses, but badly with anything that puts the rear element close to the converter glass. So my 85mm f2 keeps the same field of view and depth of field as it had on 35mm film when used on an APS sensor, but gathers light like a lens one stop faster. It's not big, but it is heavy, as it is mostly glass inside...

I tried something similar in my tiny darkroom, though I was using the drawers themselves as the trays, on a much smaller unit. It worked, after a fashion, but I had a lot of trouble moving the print from one tray to the next. Obviously, you need to have the developer at the top. I now have 3 8x10 trays side by side, with the developer tray raised above the others as the room is too narrow. One day I'll get a Nova or similar vertical processor, or build a bigger house!

If APSc sized sensors are acceptable, you should also be able to find quite a few mirrorless outfits in that price range, Sony or Fuji, maybe Canon EF-M. There are a good selection of fast 35mm (50 equivalent) lenses for the mirrorless mounts and you could use your existing Minolta lenses with an adaptor (and a 1.5x apparent focal length increase).

Leaving aside all the jpeg vs RAW debate, did @Ricochetrider ever get to the bottom of his settings issue?

Or you could just get a Godox or Yongnou. Don't know how well the TTL stuff works I'm afraid, I only use mine on manual.

Still with my friends the cows: Oly E-PM1, 17/2.8, cropped and monochrome from RAW. I think I've seen more cows than people these last 12 months.

Perhaps the most important tool in your bag is an effective bullshit detector?

Agree. Though I do like to shoot my lenses at or near wide open, perhaps more often than is strictly necessary, but I choose my lenses based on their 'character' (aberrations) and that is typically most pronounced wide open. Super fast shutter speeds on modern cameras have made shooting fast lenses wide open in daylight without ND filters possible, so that may be one reason we see more of it now.

LOL It's been a long day, but that made it better. I think, given the plastic, fragile feeling nature of my lens, my filter is staying put!

I've just been through all the settings on my E-PM1 and I couldn't actually find anything that disabled RAW. Art filters still give me a RAW + jpeg, as does iAuto, scene, etc. I don't have HDR though. Aspect ratios are fine too. I didn't go as far as to put the card in a computer to see if the RAW was still 4:3, regardless of the ratio selected, but some cameras do... Definitely try a reset. One thought, does the E-M1 have two card slots?

I bought an Olympus 17mm f2.8, with a 'protection' filter. It won't come off. Tried a pair of filter wrenches, one on the filter, the other on the lens barrel (it will just fit an closest focus), nothing. Given up now as I'm too afraid of breaking the AF mechanism on this mostly plastic lens. I think it's been on there since new. Maybe it's glued on?

If you're looking at the Fuji X100 series cameras, you might also want to take a look at the X-E series. An X-E4 with the 27mm f2.8 pancake is about the same size and considerably cheaper than an X100V. It is an interchangeable lens system, but as above, you don't have to use it as such.

No, you get a corrected JPEG and an uncorrected RAW, at least with Olympus, Panasonic and Fujifilm. I don't think that it's actually possible to disable the lens corrections for the JPEG on Olympus/micro four thirds?

Epson R-D1? A used Leica M8 is probably cheaper though... I want the same, but it needs to have a full frame (35mm) sensor, so as to match focal lengths with film. I have other priorities though, like a house, so a matched pair of Leicas (film and digital) will have to wait.

This Give the mode dial a twist, even if it's already on 'M', it might have somehow bumped to another setting. There might be some other settings that could exclude RAW capture, but I'm afraid I'm still learning my Olympus.. usual suspects would be anything like HDR or maybe very high or low (extended) ISO settings.

Not sure about Nikon, but on Fuji mirrorless, you can choose between focus peaking (contrast detection) and a split image 'rangefinder' (phase detection). The split image gives a monochrome view of horizontal 'stripes', alternating left and right, from, I presume, the phase detection pixels on the sensor. I find peaking works well overall, split image works best with long(er), fast(er) lenses.

Walkies today: Oly E-PM1, 17/2.8, 'Grainy Film' art filter.

The cows were dry yesterday, looking much more comfortable: Oly E-PM1, 17/2.8

An anonymous plastic 35mm 'focus free' thing, long since gone, though I used it for many years as a child. First camera I bought myself was a Zenit B.

I was surprised when I saw that you'd listed the XF 27mm, but I figured maybe you didn't mind wet feet!

Shadow play: Olympus E-PM1, Zuiko 17/2.8

Is your safelight, well, safe? Take a sheet of paper, place it on your enlarger, put a few coins on it and leave it there for 15 minutes, then process. If you can see outlines of the coins... I mention this as some variable contrast papers are not at all safe with the common yellow-brown safelights sold for use with variable contrast paper. Foma, in particular, needs a low powered red safelight.