paulie_smith1

<p>As you see, verbal agreements aren't worth the paper they are written on.<br>

Mark this one down as a lesson learned about contracts and professionalism. If you want to give away work or help out a friend, do it and leave it be. But never give up copyright unless you get it agreed on up front.<br>

If you normally file formal copyright paperwork - add this to the registration process. Then, if you want to get pissy and see any of the images posted anywhere online - hit them with a DMCA takedown notice. Let her make all the prints she wants for her personal use. Let her make them and solicit the Secret Service if she wants. But posting images you have formal registration for - you can stop it.<br>

Either way, drop the contact and hassling about the photos. If she eventually sends you something, fine. Other than that don't bring it up among friends and if it does come up just say 'it's business' and don't discuss it. Nothing is to gained by discussing any agreement or dealings with anyone but the party you worked for, not unless you are going to go after payment.</p>

<p>I am waiting for head to head prints, something like 16x20's or possibly 20x24 size. Same subject and similar lenses. Want to see if one has a greater Dmax than the other. Is one cleaner at comparable ISO settings. Is one sharper than the other?<br>

All at normal viewing differences and a bit closer, not with a microscope.<br>

If I and others can't see the difference in real world prints, what does it matter?<br>

If one actually demonstrates superiority in finished prints that would be the one I would want to buy. Take into account I am still using a 1950's view camera and a Nikon F2 for a number of my images. They produce work that I like. I am familiar with the cameras and lenses and darkroom.<br>

Given good lenses I would not mind either the Nikon or Canon for digital work. The only question for me is whether one actually produces better work in the sizes I normally print - in images I and others can see the difference. If not, go with what feels good and you can afford.</p>

<p>Nice, clean boxes and envelopes with your logo on them are worth the cost. You build it into your pricing. Every package or box you send out shows all who see it what you do. How it appears can help with new clients or tell people you really don't care what you send.<br>

With digital printers being so nice these days you can put your photos on the envelopes and show off some of your best work in shipping. Clean packaging, clear bags and the like make a difference. Many nice boxes get saved and re-used by people. That is advertising down the road for you.</p>

<p>First, I could not find a general digital area to post this so it is in Nikon as this happened to two Nikon bodies. I don't know if it happens to other brands. I do not know enough about the digital electronics to understand what is going on. But, I do think it is worth posting as this has apparently happened to more than one person. Mods/ if you can figure a better place for this feel free to move it.</p>

<p>This from the link here: <a href="http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=39904">http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=39904</a></p>

<p>Put a Sandisk ExtremeIII 4GB card in my D300 to read - entire camera went dead. No response, will not power on, nothing in counter window at all. After cussing a bit, pulled the card and put in a second D300 body I have so I could finish my job. SAME THING HAPPENS on the second D300 body - completely dead. I can't power it on, nothing showing in the frame counter window at all - just blank.<br />Could this card have caused both my D300 bodies to die when I put it in them?? Had used that card many, many times before and it was the second card of three that I had used to shoot a Lacrosse game that day and had no issues with it them.... </p>

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<p>Just had this happen to one maybe two D3 bodies.<br />One way to tell if you body is fried is to smell the card slot.. it may smell like burnt electric.<br />As Robert said it is about $375 to repair...</p>

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<p></p>

<p>Are you able to tell the difference in an underexposed negative - and one that has been under developed?<br>

You are showing prints, not negatives.<br>

How is the shadow detail in the negatives? OK - or not really anything there?<br>

Hard to tell the problem without seeing the negatives - but, looking at the higher contrast images - and only doing B&W printing and no scanning, print with a softer filter. I'll leave it to others to chime in on scanning and whatnot as I don't do that at all.</p>

<p>The second higher contrast print seems to have adequate shadow detail and blown highlights - is the negative like that? Again - no scanner experience.</p>

<p>The third is simple. Print a bit more time with a higher contrast paper and you would be fine. Scanning info - once again - same old'same old.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Nice, quiet, B&W, relaxing and for me, too short.</p>

<p>1 - One view camera Linhof Super Technika V 5x7 (s/n 2475015) 2 - One Lens Rodenstock Sironar-N f5.6 180mm on copal 1 (s/n 10432821)<br>

Have either this camera or lens surfaced anywhere since the original information was posted?</p>

<p><a href="http://aldiazphoto.blogspot.com/2012/04/opening-night-timelapse-of-marlins-park.html">http://aldiazphoto.blogspot.com/2012/04/opening-night-timelapse-of-marlins-park.html</a></p>

<p>It is interesting to watch the light changes and the roof action.</p>

<p>I was trying to do a search of photo.net for a specific topic across many areas and on entering the term in the seach box at the top right of the page I found it did not work. Reason was that sections 'folds over' as if someone was trying to turn a page in a magazine or book. I could not click on the SEARCH icon, instead I kept getting a Tamron lens page.<br>

Is it possible to move the SEARCH function a bit so it is usable. Nothing against Tamron lenses, I just don't need any these days and would rather be able to search for what I was looking for in All of PhotoNet.</p>

<p>Seldom even look at the screen and do chimping. The 5D is still producing excellent images and would match up with his lenses well. If he watches prices a bit he may end up with a 5D MkII at the top of his range. Prices are coming down.</p>

<p>Have a nice EOS 1DMkIIn and would like to do some time lapse work with it. I see what Canon makes and going online I see stuff like Satachi(sp?) and others making something similar.<br>

Does it really make a difference getting the Canon model for $100 or so more than one of the others?<br>

Have done a search but not finding what I am looking for. Many posts about making one and altering stuff - but electronics and I don't mesh at all for making stuff. If it is not idiotproof from the beginning I don't have much luck.<br>

With many other things I have found aftermarket the equal or even better than the maker provides. Does that hold true here?</p>

<p>The 1DMkII bodies still put out some of the sharpest images of any Canon SLR. Many pro shooters & sports shooters have gone back to them after trying the 7D and 1DMkIII. Not so much the 1DMkIV.<br>

If you are looking the 1DMkIIn is the one to get as it has a larger screen which makes seeing the histogram a bit easier in the field. The cameras are not lightweight and a shutter replacement is around $400 but they continue to work well for many who depend on them to make a living.</p>

<p>Woodworkers, framers, finish carpenters and others do have a lot of discussions on hammers as well as nails for different tasks. Then you have hammer handles, claw types, serrated faces, smooth faces an a lot more.<br>

Not as odd as photographers maybe, but there are many ways to hammer nails. And we haven't even touched on pneumatic hammers...</p>

<p>Using film developer one shot and dumping out will allow you much more consistent results than any re-use.<br>

D76 works well but does gain in activity a bit while sitting after mixing.<br>

Stay with Xtol, one shot and tweak it a bit if your prints show you should.</p>

<p>Why not make a normal contact print and scan it? Sure seems like a lot less work than what you are looking at.</p>

<p>Why not get some chemicals and make a contact print or enlargement. That is the easiest way to tell with higher contrast subjects.</p>

<p>The major problem with a number of the sites I have checked is the lack of credit card payment for SELF fulfilled orders. If I use their lab they take care of it. Trouble is, their labs can't print my work. I mainly want the service to host the images, take the order and payment and I will print the image, package and ship it to them. I have no problem with them taking a percentage for their part.<br>

I do not deal with PayPal. Having a service/host take care of the credit/bookkeeping part of things is much easier for me so them running things through their credit card setup makes sense.</p>

<p><a href="http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/PDR.htm#D3S,D4">http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/PDR.htm#D3S,D4</a> <br>

The website above has a comparison feature of the dynamic range of many Nikon digital cameras and a few Canon as well.</p>

<p>Most interesting information and an easy way to see where things shake out.</p>

<p>And here I am hoping the batteries on my 5x7 Deardorff never need changing as i can't figure out where they are. 8-)</p>

<p>Canon Digital Photo pro.</p>

<p>the simplest way to see how this changes is to shoot some film. Identical exposures on the roll. Then cut it into thirds and develop one normally, the next one same time at 5 degrees higher temp and the third higher yet. Then make a print from each to see how it looks in the final image.<br>

With some films you will have major differences. With others not so much. The exercise will benefit you with real world experience in your own darkroom with your gear and film.</p>

<p>As many have found Printroom seems to be getting worse for paying on time.<br>

I am doing the research for some friends who want to move.<br>

Have come to SmugMug and Exposure Manager. Main reason is that Both take real credit cards and you do not have to deal with the damnable PayPal. Am open to others who host events/sports and sales, self fulfilled - without forcing the photographers to deal with PayPal.<br>

SmugMug takes 15% of a sale, before tax & shipping.<br>

Exposure manager takes 10% plus Fifty Cents per transaction.<br>

Since these guys will be printing/packaging/shipping their own work with the website labs only for prints larger than 16x20, being able to do it all without losing more money than necessary to the providing site is one concern.<br>

Any experience with these two for self fulfilled image printing? Any other suggestions that work well without PayPal type of involvement?<br>

I am involved as I helped get them set up years ago and at that time Printroom looked like a very good deal. Not so mucn now when they sell work but can't get paid regularly.</p>

<p>Epson Hot Press Bright and Epson Hot Press Natural. Both are excellent. The Epson Cold Press papers are as well but not quite as smooth in surface and appearance of the final image.</p>

<p>Two friends are with them and have been for a number of years. Both are moving all their work elsewhere due to the payment problems that are ongoing. Once or twice may be understandable but recurring problems are not.<br>

Can you say "pyramyd scheme"? That is what it LOOKS LIKE. Checks not sent out til more money comes in from someone else so they can pay you. Your money is not taken, the lab paid and Printrooms profit taken out while the balance is put in an interest bearing trust account. That is the simple and sensible way to manage the money. No one would begrudge them the interest, not even on two or three monthsl for small accounts under $100 while waiting to accumulate more so they would pay out.<br>

Add in stories of some who have moved on and have not been paid their balance that is under $100 on termination of the business relationship. That is dishonest.<br>

Printroom looks to be in financial trouble. Ongoing financial trouble. Not paying those who use the site on time shows this. Accounting software set to specific dates and performance paramaters would easily keep track of all the photographers, sales and money owed as well as keying the checks for them. Anything else is an excuse.<br>

California Attorney General, Department of Consumer Affairs, Better Business Bureau - and whichever other agencies to be contacted need to be the subject of complaints.<br>

I do know my two friends are moving to Smugmug and Zenfolio - one to each. So far both say the move was easy tho not painless as they had to re-do the whole setup again, one with more than six years of galleries with hundreds of events.<br>

The downside for them? They now might have to deal with the photoCrazy guy who goes after those who post more than 500 photos for sale in any one gallery as he claims to have a patent for this for Internet use. Apparently Printroom has an agreement with him that some of the other hosting sited do not. One thing to be aware of and why some have stayed - so they don't have to pay extra to him each time a gallery over 500 images is posted for sale.</p>

<p>A camera you can actually get and use is always better than one you can't.<br>

As others say, buy used and shoot it and later you can make the move up if you want. A bit higher image quality in terms of noise, better high ISO images and better AF, especially in low light would make it an easy choice for me - I would go for the Mark III. But, if I had some projects to do now would easily get the MkII and use it.<br>

This is not like film where we could buy an inexpensive body and shoot Kodachrome 25 or Tech Pan and the main limit was lens quality. Every body then would take all films and the main limitation was the glass and technique.(leaving out whether or not the photographer was any good at all) Now the higher quality bodies do put out higher quality results but most will never push the performance enough to really make use of it. Take a good look a what you shoot and how you print. Not just size, but overall. What in the mix would really make a difference if you had the MKIII or even a medium format back/sensor? For most it would be money wasted.<br>

Your option of renting is a good one and is used by a lot of professional shooters for gear only occasionally needed. Makes sense financially and you will have hands on experience with the full frame body to help with making the decision to drop all the dollars on the newer body.</p>