paulie_smith1

<p>I have been using Sandisk Extreme III cards and they seem to do well in temps to 30 below zero.(farenheit) Not out in colder(to 43 below) as that is usually middle of the night.<br>

Any newer cards with similar performance?<br>

The cameras have a slot for SD SDHC cards as well. At times in this very cold weather here it would be nice for peace of mind to write to both cards. Will need to get cards with a faster write time as what I have is slow so only use them occasionally, keep the CF cards as the main memory.<br>

Anything out there match or beat the Sandisk Extreme III cards in cold weather ratings or performance?<br>

Am in North Dakota and winter is a fact of life. Can't let it stop me from photographing so good cards go hand in hand with extra sets of batteries and not taking a lens from shooting outdoors into an ice fishing shack. </p>

<p>The older model G series Canons will fit your needs. So will the older Panasonic Lumix LX3. So will a host of ohers, I am just familiar with these two from using them. Now have the LX5. The Leica lens is nice as is the 24mm f/2.0 at the wide end. The Canons had a f/2.0 lens on the older G models. Newer ones are f/2.8.<br>

Nicest thing with these is not a lot of shutter lag.</p>

<p>Keep in mind the Sharper Image catalogue close work/jewelry used to be shot using 8x10 chromes and Sironar macro lenses.<br>

What level of quality does she really need?<br>

At a minimum an SLR body and a macro lens are the basics along with a solid tripod. Two small Hot lights or color corrected photo fluorescents for lighting is the minimum for control and repeatability with lighting. Some reflectors to bounce light and black cards for strategically placed shadows and contrast areas will help.<br>

It is not difficult but needs careful and repeatable technique for good results.</p>

<p>Solved this one by buying a Panasonic LX5. Pocketable, 24-90 zoom with f/2.0 wide aperture. A good complement to the MarkII's in the field and the image quality is very good. Even have a number of images printed in some of our area newspapers from it.<br>

Saves me from changing lenses more often in crappy environments like the major dust from all the cleanup efforts in Minot, ND where I have been shooting recovery photos the past week.</p>

<p>Here is what Brett Weston used: (Photo Pro 1992) where there was an interview with Brett Weston. He stated, on <br />page 42, that he was currently using Oriental paper, Kodak's HC-110 developer, <br />and Ethol LPD paper developer, at 1:4, for his medium format work. When asked <br />about Pyro (on the next page) Brett answered that "it was a dirty developer and <br />one that he hasn't used for 20 or 30 years, although he found it very sharp". .. <br />no mention of a film type, but he does mention the use of the rollie SL-66 <br />camera, calling it "superb" and the Pentax 6x7, used for close ups and <br />abstractions...*************************</p>

<p>Doesn't mean you should, but it sure worked for him.<br>

The message is simple, use what you are most comfortable with as it frees you from being distracted by equipment and technique so you can concentrate on your vision.<br>

Every top shooter I have ever met is very familiar with their gear to the point it is an extension of their vision and not something they have to think about. It doesn't get in the way, just helps them interpret their world.</p>

<p>MODS, if this needs to be moved, so so. I looked at 'off topic' but it said not photo related. My query concerns photo gear and our ability to use battery/digital stuff.</p>

<p>The link and short bit below is from Yahoo. Many other sites, from scientific to general also give information on what may be a problem for electronic cameras in the future. Anyone with knowledge know what the effect may be on digital cameras, CF cards and memory not in 'hard copy' fashion? I do know from reading a major event like that below or larger(like the 'it won't happen' 100 year floods in Minot, North Dakota - near me) can and will eventually hit. If so, what are our alternatives? Keep our digital gear in a tin foil wrapped refrigerator in the basement? Our computers as well?<br>

With the power grid down and major transformers not readily available(some scientific papers I have read say most electric suppliers don't have the larger ones on hand) how will batteries be charged?</p>

<p><a href="http://news.yahoo.com/power-companies-prepare-solar-storms-set-hit-earth-144759933.html">http://news.yahoo.com/power-companies-prepare-solar-storms-set-hit-earth-144759933.html</a><br>

Major disruptions from solar activity are rare but have had serious impacts in the past.<br>

In 1989, a solar storm took down the power grid in Quebec, Canada, leaving about six million people without power for several hours.<br>

The largest solar storm ever recorded was in 1859 when communications infrastructure was limited to telegraphs.<br>

The 1859 solar storm hit telegraph offices around the world and caused a giant aurora visible as far south as the Caribbean Islands.<br>

Some telegraph operators reported electric shocks. Papers caught fire. And many telegraph systems continued to send and receive signals even after operators disconnected batteries, NOAA said on its website.<br>

A storm of similar magnitude today could cause up to $2 trillion in damage globally, according to a 2008 report by the National Research Council.</p>

<p>Am looking at these two bodies. I prefer the Series 1 bodies for the build quality and want a full frame body. Image quality between these two bodies? Is the 5DMkII actually 'better' in final image quality in print comparisons? The used prices are pretty good and close on both. Video is not really part of the deal, just the final image quality.</p>

<p>In looking at my options I see the Canon TC 80N3 Camera remote for around $150... and a whole bunch of aftermarket models in the $20-50 range.<br>

Is there any real advantage to the Canon model over the others?<br>

Anyone have experience with some aftermarket brands and/or sellers and can give recommendations? Am looking at it for Northern Lights photos as well as time lapse video work. If the aftermarket models work as well and are reliable I can get 3 so I can set up three cameras for the work.</p>

<p>Have a friend visiting to photograph baseball tournaments. He does sports professionally - so I asked him.<br>

He says Canon 1D MkIIn bodies(700-900 dollar range). Canon 50mm f/1.8 - inexpensive and works well for basketball in gyms. Canon 85mm f/1.8. Under $400 and works well in crappy lit gyms. Canon 24mm f/2.8, inexpensive and works well when shooting in some gyms, especially if you are backed against an end wall and it is light colored and will reflect some light into faces.<br>

He shoots RAW and pops the exposure, contrast and sharpening in converstion to Jpegs or Tiff files. Says he shoots at 1600/3200 and can pull two more stops out during RAW conversion while the noise reduction and sharpening works well. Nikon probably is as good if not better in many respects. Don't get so hung up on 'grain/digital noise' as that is part of things just like grain used to be with pushed film. Mainly a worry of photographers, not clients who are generally pleased to get action work that is good.<br>

Whichever way you go, good luck.</p>

<p>Might be interesting to see them compare the 1DMkIV and 60D for soccer mom sports photography?</p>

<p>The 'hot linking' and showing it on their site won't work, it is still an infringement. Just a link that does not show it should be OK. Showing the photo is the infringement, absent 'fair use' exceptions. Most I have seen posting the photos are not within that narrow exception.<br>

I found this site that has some good information: <a href="http://webnet77.com/webstuff/copyright.html">http://webnet77.com/webstuff/copyright.html</a><br>

The attorney deals with this daily. It is one of the better explanations I have read.</p>

<p>I am looking for a shutter tripping option for many exposures during lightning storms, northern lights, etc.<br>

In reading about this Canon control it says it can be set for up to 99 exposures.<br>

Is that the limit I can shoot with it? That is not nearly enough for a nights shooting.<br>

Is there a way to get more exposures, or am I misreading this somehow? With film and 250 exposure back this would not even allow me to shoot the long roll, much less a nights shooting of Northern Lights on a digital Eos 1D series body.</p>

<p>Watch the movie JACKIE BROWN if you want to see hot babes with weapons.<br>

"Nothing comes between me and my AK"...</p>

<p>Why introduce a rangefinder type camera without a rangefinder window for composition? The bright screen blinds you in dim light and spotlights your face. Not the thing to use for photos in a dim jazz club.</p>

<p>50+ years of Square and trying to convince the world that was God's personal photo choice and they go 645 with digital.<br>

Nothing that happens to the HassieHypocrites is a surprise.</p>

<p>There is still only one way to tell what works for you.<br>

Try it. Shoot some identical rolls and process them in the various dilutions and see if one stands out to you as 'better'.<br>

From John Sexton to Michael A. Smith to Bruce Barnbaum to Ray McSavaney, you will find photographers who get excellent results using combinations we see others complaining about.<br>

Pick one and use it for a year. Then you will have enough experience(shooting often is assumed) to make a decision. Obsessing over small things won't help much at all.</p>

<p>" I do most all macro work hand-held."</p>

<p>This is your first major problem. Sloppy technique and short cuts won't be eliminated by purchasing ever more expensive toys.</p>

<p>Learn the basics of lighting. Any decent book on portraiture will help. Maybe a seminar, workshop or school class on lighting.<br>

This is not difficult, but it not <em>easy. </em>Just owning the camera does not make you a photographer. Study lighting and learn to work with it... it is what makes photography possible.</p>

<p>You should be able to do just fine with the lens you have no matter what body you use. Coming from shooting sports for news work in the film days and having to work with newspapers that had little budget for upscale bodies I have shot with older Nikon manual cameras and no motor drive.<br>

It can be done, and done well. Look at older sports photo work. Some of it excellent in spite of no 8 frames per second. Learn to time your shutter release and when you do use a 2-4 shot burst you will be a bit better off as you will be starting ahead of the game.<br>

Try some lower angles, shooting eye level or a bit below so you are looking into the kids faces and not down on them. Try isolating them against a constrasting background if possible. Field access, as mentioned is a real plus. With this age group you should be able to manage it. Nice to shoot kids games and not stuck in a photo well in Dodge Stadium - you can move around.<br>

What will help most(my opinion only) is to be very critical in judging the images after you shoot. Not in camera but on the computer screen, enlarged and under close examination. Just before or just after the action? Learn to read the players signals as to when they are going to swing the bat. Watch the pitchers release point so you know when to shoot. Don't forget follow up shots in a burst to catch after the peak action euphoria, disappointment and reaction. Those are often better than the action shot everyone gets.<br>

Good luck, good shooting and have fun.<br>

Just remember the #1 rule in shooting baseball. Both Eyes Open. Always watch the ball. People get killed at baseball games every year. One moment chimping and you may take a line foul to the skull. Baseball is one of the most dangerous sports to shoot. Partly because it looks so easy and partly because of the split second timing between getting hit and missed by an errant ball. Players get hit and hurt... and they are ready and prepared for the action. Concentrate on the view through the lens and you will never see the ball that fractures your eye socket or drives he viewfinder into your eye. Always be award of where the ball is.</p>

<p>A friend has asked me about posting photos(not his - but found on internet sites, including newspapers) on internet forums that are not commercial or for-profit.<br>

I told him 'don't do it', using them without permission of the copyright holder does not fall under 'fair use' just because your forum use is a religious forum. Some copyright owners will hit you with a DMCA takedown notice. Some might take the legal filing route before doing even that.<br>

He thinks because the site is non-commercial they can post anything they want and it is 'fair use'.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>A site a friend visits was given a DMCA notice for someone posting a photo taken from a facebook site.<br>

The ISP shut the site down for some time as a result and it caused a number of problems for the guys who actually run the site.<br>

What is reality with a DMCA notice of use of photos without permission?<br>

Is this shutdown normal or an overreaction? Can the copyright owner also bill the site, the indivisual and/or site advertisers for posting - as they would a client in a business deal?<br>

What is the real world result of a DMCA notice and is it worth it? Is it different for an amateur compared to a professional photographer?</p>

<p>It is <em>real estate </em>photograph. It isn't like it is for a fine art catalogue, Victorias Secret ad series or Architectural Digest.<br>

A simple 28-135 should do the job. Or a 24-85. If you were doing Architectural Digest work you would not be asking here.</p>

 

<p>Interesting that you will get what "everyone says"rather than checking and making the decision on your own.<br>

I hope on your trip you don't take the same old same'old stuff 'everyone' takes with the camera.<br>

If you aren't developing your own vision the images will be more of that 'same old' that we keep seeing.</p>

<p>Try a 24 f/1.4 and an 85 f/1.2. Simple and high quality. Zoom with your feet - walk closer and further away.</p>

<p>"Critics know everything about photography except its Joy". Ernst Haas</p>

<p>Haas knew how to craft an image. His book The Creation is one of the all time greats. He found the Joy of Photography every day.</p>