bebu_lamar

<blockquote> <p> To a point it no longer pays to keep listening to various opinions and just go for it to find out for yourself.</p> </blockquote> <p>It is a good advice to make the decision all by yourself.</p>

<p>I bought my D70s at garage sale for a whopping $30. It has the rubber cover around the eyepiece missing and the grip is very sticky. I use Isopropyl Acohol and clean it. It's now is very smooth to the touch and not sticky at all. </p>

<p>Danny!<br> I checked my F5 and yes it does lower the shutter speed with the SB-15 turned on. I do know about partially exposed image if the shutter speed set too high. I used to have camera with top sync speed of 1/60. But to me when I set the camera in Manual mode I do not want it to make any decision at all and it should follow my command even if it's a self destruct command. Yeah I don't believe in slavery but yes all my equipment are my slaves and they should do what I told them to.</p>

<p>Danny for the film camera I believe I can set the shutter speed to any speed I want in manual mode with the compatible flash attached on my F5.</p>

<p>Thanks Shun! I think you gave me the answer although it doesn't make sense to me that Nikon designed the camera that way. </p>

<p>Well Shun! With your D750 and a newer SB does the E1 setting has an effect if the camera is in manual mode?</p>

<p>I tried the SB-15 on the D70s in this case it recognize the flash. It turned on the flash ready light and set the shutter speed to 1/60 but only in A or P mode not on M mode. It would work with the flash in Auto or M but not in TTL. In TTL it simply doesn't take the picture. </p>

<p>Shun! I have a number of hot shoe flashes including the Nikon SB-15 and SB-16b but my Df doesn't recognize either one of them that is it doesn't know if that flash is attached although it would fire the flash.</p>

<p>To answer directly to your question is easy but may not help you.<br> 1. ISO set the camera at base ISO<br> 2. Varying the shutter speed, taking test shots, view them on your calibrated computer, until you have good exposure.<br> 3. Set your aperture first before step 2. Varying aperture, taking test shots, until you have just the right amount of DOF. Then go one to set the shutter speed to get your correct exposure.<br> However, your success would depend more on how you arrange your lights and your use of light modifiers.</p>

<p>Thanks Shun! I don't have a compatible flash unit to try and I am not going to buy one just to test it. However, I think it's strange that Nikon allows a camera in manual mode to change shutter speed when the flash is attached. Even if the user chose slow sync Nikon should only allow the camera to automatically changes the shutter speed in A or P mode. And in the case if I set my shutter speed to 1/1000 it should not correct me and let take a partial exposure due to too high shutter speed.</p>

<p>James I don't own a D810 but I believe if you set auto ISO and the light is too dark it would increase the ISO and if the light is too bright it would decrease the ISO. It won't change the manually set shutter speed. </p>

<p>Well Shun I saw a post in the other forum. The poster said he was using a D810 and a SB910. Everytime he attached the flash the shutter speed went down to less than 1/60 although he manually set the shutter speed at 1/250. So it's kind of a hypothethical question. I only own the D70s and the Df and neither would do that.</p>

<p>What is wrong with PN-1 that they feel they need to change. The new system may have better things but I surely don't wish to learn to navigate it.</p>

<p>Ektar color rendition is very sensitive to the color temperature of the light source. If the scene has both in sun and in shade part the color is very difficult to correct.</p>

<p>Besides from auto bracketing can you think of any settings that cause a typical modern Nikon DSLR to set its shutter speed different from the user input in manual mode?</p>

<p>That is normal. You should keep the aperture ring set at f/22. There is a lock but the lock isn't really needed for it to work. Control your aperture with the sub command dial (the front wheel).<br> I know it's a pain to read the manual but I do suggest you read it. The manual is available at nikonusa.com for free download.</p>

<p>I buy none of your arguments.<br> 1. I don't buy a digital camera until they are good. I bought my first one in Dec 2013.<br> 2. I don't upgrade or intend to until my camera breaks. If it's good enough for me when I bought it then it's good enough for me forever as long as it functions like when it was new.<br> 3. I do want my digital camera to work as close as my film camera as possible. I don't mind the bulk and love the weight. In fact I still want to use my film camera if I can buy film easily. The market forced me to move on to digital.</p>

<blockquote> <p>When I was using film cameras (Pentax, Nikon and Bronica) I was able to use the Zone system reasonably successfully with a Weston Master V hand held meter and Invercone, measuring the light falling on the subject not that reflected by it. Sadly, the equipment and negatives did not survive a fire, but at least I still have the mind, eyes and hands I used to take the images.</p> </blockquote> <p>How do you use the zone system with an incident light meter?</p>

<p>So after all you admit that you do have privilege information from Nikon. Just kidding!</p>

<p>Shun, I don't think the D500 would be discontinued this coming December.</p>

<p>It would work but the sensitivity is way down so it only works in bright light and you have to recalibrate the meter.</p>

<p>Guide Number can not be used if you bounce the flash. Once the flash hit the ceiling or reflector it's no longer a point light source and GN doesn't apply any more. Auto flash only work with 1 single flash and not multiple flashes (of course because there is no system like Nikon CLS back then). The best bet is still using a flash meter. You can get a very good Minolta flash meter II or flash meter III for less than $100. </p>

<p>You definitely don't need a darkroom for processing film. I have processed 35mm film and 4x5 sheet film both color and B&W without using the darkroom. Just load the reel and put it in the tank or load the drum using a changing bag. I had a darkroom to make print not for developing film. Of course when I worked for a 1 hr. photo lab I processed, print and enlarge up to 11x17 without any darkroom. Commercial processing equipment allows you to do the complete photo finishing without any darkroom. </p>

<blockquote> <p>now that the D500 is out, there's not enough differentiating the 7100/7200 to justify the price difference. in terms of image quality, they have the same sensor. personally, i would avoid the Df unless you get a really sweet deal on a refurb or barely-used one and/or have a lot of legacy lenses. it's kind of an odd camera, with a retro body and a parts-bin mix of d7000, d610, and d4, the d750 is a better-performing camera for much less $$.</p> </blockquote> <p>Although I bought the Df and love it. I don't want the D750 or D810. With that said you must think carefully as to why you want the Df. The D750 offers almost everything more fore less. </p>

<p>Normally in P mode the camera shouldn't change the ISO unless Auto ISO is on.</p>