Tony-S

This camera was gifted to me a few weeks ago. It's in mostly working condition but it has the apparently a common problem that its lower shutter speeds are effectively bulb because of a failure in the shutter mechanism. I don't know if the meter works, I just used the Pocket Light Meter app on my iPhone. It's a zone focusing camera and is definitely the smallest 35mm camera I've used. Not a fan of it; I'd rather use my conventional rangefinders (Canon QL-17, Yashica 35 SE) but they are definitely bigger cameras. Delta 100 at f/11, processed in Perceptol 1+2 for 11 min at 68F.

Foveon sensors are at their best in bright, sunny days. However, when I backpack I take only a DP1 Merrill (28mm FF equivalent) and DP3 Merrill (75mm equivalent) for their small size and fantastic IQ. Day hikes and car shooting, it's my sdQuattro. Here are a few from that camera.

I can’t even tell you the last time I did landscapes WITHOUT a polarizer. It’s an essential tool for me.

Because polarizers don’t change the wavelength of the light striking the film.

Yes I have a VG-10 for my A2e. It makes the camera much easier to use. And following that video, my EOS 3 is working again. I’ll be sure to exercise its shutter daily for the next week or two.

Thank you Gordon. That looks pretty straight forward and I’ll work on it this weekend.

And polarizers.

Still digging this camera. I also have an EOS 3 but it seems to have developed the infamous shutter-magnetic release problem. I'll try banging on the floor a few dozen times to see if I can rescue it. In the meantime, a few shots from the reliable A2E. This camera has been really reliable and has nearly all the features I need. I wish the eye-controlled focus worked in portrait mode, and I wish it had more focus points. But it's rare to miss focus with this thing. EF 135mm f/2 + Kodachrome 25 (my very last roll). Zeiss ZE 35mm f/2, Provia 100. Zeiss ZE 35mm f/2, Provia 100. Zeiss ZE 35mm f/2, Provia 100.

I’ve used NiMH batteries in my F-1N power winder for years and never had problems.

Still shooting EOS 3 and A2E .

Avalanche Creek, Glacier National Park. Bronica GS-1, 110 mm macro, Delta 100/XTOL 1+1.

I have an AL-1 and it's a great camera. Unfortunately, the battery door is truly terrible because the latch breaks on a regular basis. I've replaced doors on mine twice.

My Photoshop CS5 always does this with High Sierra but Pixelmator does not. Perhaps repairing your disk with Disk Utility will fix Pixelmator?

I do a lot of hiking and snowshoeing in subzero here in the Colorado Rockies. I just keep my camera under my jacket to ensure the temp does not affect the battery. Works just fine.

Perhaps the compromise is to take one camera and mostly Ektar but also a couple of rolls of Portra 400?

For the outdoor shots in direct sunlight, really nothing beats Ektar, unless you want to show slides on a projector. Color negative film has much more dynamic range than slide film. However, because "most" will be outdoors in sunlight, you will pay a price for the indoor shots. I think you ought to put Ektar in one camera and Portra 400 in the other. You don't want to lose once in a lifetime shots because you didn't have the right film.

Yes, it does, but as I noted it is very difficult to get clean because you really cannot use detergents. They never rinse out completely and can contaminate subsequent prints.

I suggest you download the manuals from Butkus and see how they interact. Also, there is a Bronica Yahoo group that probably has lots of users of these cameras.

I have one of these and it works ok with FB paper, but you have to keep the cloth clean clean clean, otherwise it will damage subsequent prints. If you do not wash prints sufficiently - even just once - fixer gets into the cloth and it is difficult to clean. Use of detergents can lead to long-term issues with prints, too. So my dryer hasn't been used in 20+ years. I don't see a reason for this and at worse you can cause the plastic on the RC paper to melt if you're not careful.

We can put a man on the moon, but we cannot make FB paper that dries flat. :) IMO, print on RC - it will save you the hassle of FB paper and have nearly the same qualities in everything else.

I think your 400 ISO exposed Tri-X looks fine and the 1600 looks underexposed - as expected. Also, keep in mind that Tri-X was around long before anyone thought about using scanners to scan negatives. One reason I use Silverfast is because it has presets for a number of films to help get in the ballpark, so to speak. Moreover, if you do not properly expose and develop, then you cannot be assured that every frame will capture the maximum shadows and highlights. The times provided for development are just approximations. If you want the perfect negative, then you need to expose for the shadows and process for the highlights. Often difficult to do with roll film.

Are the edges of the film clear? If so, then your film is probably fixed adequately. From the massive dev chart, it appears you shot Tri-X? Pushing to 1600 is underexposing by 2 stops and you will never get shadows from the film. Are you sure you're camera was set to ISO 1600 and that no exposure compensation was set? What is the make and model of your camera?

Yes, as I noted in that same post.

That's correct. The original Neopans 100, 400 and 1600 were traditional emulsions similar to Plus-X, Tri-X, FP4, etc. and have all been discontinued. Only Neopan Acros 100 remains in 135, 120 and 4x5.

To be clear, Neopan and Neopan Acros are two different films.