Tony-S

So, IBIS buys you about 2 stops of hand-held? I typically don't go below 1/60" with 50mm. If IBIS would give an equivalent of 4 stops (i.e., 1/4" with 50mm) that would be very attractive for certain shots.

What is the slowest shutter speed that you can manage hand-held with the A7ii?

Canon made a modified F-1 with a digital back. Never went on sale, though. http://eocamera.jemcgarvey.com/img/EO1.jpg http://eocamera.jemcgarvey.com/img/EO3.jpg

I still have my A-1 from 1980. It's a fine camera and if I'm shooting autoexposure, then it's one I will take. If I'm shooting manual exposure, I leave it at home. It simply does not have enough information in the viewfinder to use manual exposure.

I love my EOS 3 but it is unreliable because of its magnetic shutter release. For that reason, and the size of the lenses, I prefer the F-1N.

<p>You should also consider the Bronica GS-1 if 6x7 is of interest. Do you plan to ever make wet prints? Most papers are sold in the same the aspect ratio of the 6x7 cameras (8x10, 11x14, 16x20, etc.).</p>

<p>Like this?<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7175351209_094be32c90_b.jpg" alt="" /><br> Details are <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/digi-film/sets/72157627480665766/">here with a Bronica GS-1 SLR. </a>.</p>

<p>Yes, with the EF get some 1.5v silver oxides and it will drop the voltage down to 1.3v. Only a few cameras of this era had regulators and this was the only Canon that I'm aware of that did. I have the MR9 with my F-1n.</p>

<p>As far as I'm concerned, the AL-1 was the best A series camera because it had both aperture-priority autoexposure and manual metering information in the viewfinder. The damned battery cover was one of the poorest things Canon ever devised. Too much saki for the engineers, I suppose. I replaced mine once, and it broke after a year. I've bought two more and I need to get it fixed again.</p>

<p>Wow, this just happened to my SLX, too. I will give this a try to fix it. By "transparent adhesive" do you mean clear tape?</p>

<p>There's no reason to scan at more than probably 2200 dpi with any flatbed scanner, and for the V600 it's probably limited to about 1800 dpi. Anything greater results in larger files with no improvement in resolution.</p>

<p>I came across a 150 ft roll of Technical Pan in a cabinet that expired in 1996. I wasn't sure if it was any good, so I did a test roll at ISO 25 last weekend. I processed in 510 Pyro 1:300 with semi-stand and it seems to be in decent shape considering its age. There are issues with the emulsion that are fine for scanning, but I don't think I'll ever make wet prints from them.<br> Canon F-1N and FDn 35mm f/2.<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/15599543033_dc68372c0d_z.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/16031877768_c089af3c77_z.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>OK, this was actually shot the last week of December, but processing and scanning took a few extra days. Poudre River near Fort Collins, CO. Canon F-1n, FDn 35mm f/2 at 1/4" and f/11, yellow filter, Pan F+ at ISO 25, processed in 510 Pyro.<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7537/15494573304_6a7b2a74c7_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Fuji X-E1 and Metabones SpeedBooster and Rainbow Imaging FD to X mount. Nice, compact system with superb features for using manual focus lenses.</p>

<p>Just did the banging on the floor fix and the camera is again working. You'd think for such a sophisticated camera, something like this would have been addressed by Canon's engineers.</p>

<p ><em><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6042723">Bruno Lessen</a> , Jul 14, 2014; 07:26 a.m.</em></p> <p><em>My friends are suggesting to buy a Contax G2, but I would like to stay with the medium format.</em><br /><em>I have a broken Rolleiflex, so I could fix it, but I'm thinking about a Mamiya 6 MF with the 50mm or a Hasselbad with the 50mm.</em></p> <p>If you're not set on square, I suggest you look at the Bronica RF645. It has the best rangefinder I have ever used, and that includes a couple of the earlier Leicas (M6, I think). It has an electronically-controlled shutter with fractional speeds, aperture-priority autoexposure and manual exposure, manual focusing, and runs on a pair of CR2 batteries. It is about the size of a Canon 5D but quite a bit lighter. Interchangeable lenses are available but limited, and they can be hard to find. The standard lens is the 65mm f/4 and their are 45mm and 100mm lenses. I really love using mine.</p> <p>There's also the Fuji GA645 series, which have autofocus that I've found to be quite spotty, which was why I returned it. It is a fixed-lens camera but can be bought with a zoom.</p>

<p>In terms of angles of view to 35mm cameras, the 100mm "standard" Mamiya Press is roughly equivalent to 50mm on a 6x7 and 45mm on 6x9. Of course, the aspect ratios also impact this since the 6x9 is the same as 35mm (2:3) whereas the 6x7 is shorter (4:5).</p>

<p>Jose, I am simply stating that a 6x7 camera negative is 25% larger than a 6x6 camera negative, and that if one frequently uses the standard 4:5 aspect ratio papers (e.g., 8x10, 11x14, 16x20) that a 6x7 negative (~55x69mm) is 1.56 times larger than a 6x6 frame cropped to 4:5 (~44x55mm). That extra surface area may or may not be relevant for smaller prints; however, it is important to keep it in mind when deciding which format one wants to use.</p> <p>As others have stated, the Bronica GS-1 is probably the most compact 6x7 SLR ever made. I have carried mine in the Colorado, Wyoming and Montana Rockies on many occasions, usually with the 50mm, 110mm and 200mm lenses and a couple of backs. It's probably about the same weight as my 5Dii with equivalent FoV lenses. </p>

<p>If one principally shoots to print on the standard paper formats (8x10, 11x14, 16x20, etc) then a 6x7 camera will give substantially more surface area. For example, printing a 6x7 frame to a 16x20 print is the same enlargement as printing a 6x6 to about 16x12.75 at the same aspect ratio, and which is 1.56x the surface area. While this may not be relevant to some people, it is worth pointing out simply for helping make an informed decision. If you shoot principally square (quite uncommon for landscape) then it doesn't matter. </p>

Just to be clear, a 6x7 frame is 25% larger than a 6x6 frame, and if you crop a 6x6 frame to the same aspect ratio of a 6x7 frame it's more than 50% larger.