Tony-S

Dilution is the solution to pollution. It's not so toxic that it is a hazard when properly used.

My favorite B&W film. Best processed with Perceptol. It is nothing like Tri-X. It is a modern emulsion similar to T-Max and Delta, so if you're looking for grain then Acros is not for you.

Meh. Very happy with Delta 100 and 400, and Acros. Best films I've ever used. I'm sorry to see Acros may go extinct.

I only have PS CS5 and it runs fine other than crashing on quit. My NIK plugins all work fine with both Aperture and Photos app. Have you tried running Disk Utility's First Aid?

Oil and vinegar. Fuji X-T20, Canon FDn 50mm f/1.4 at f/2, Metabones Speedbooster.

I have a Spotmatic F (pristine condition!) and it is much simpler than the Fuj X-T digitalsi. There's really only one dial on the Spotmatics - the shutter speed dial. The ISO is set and and can't be bumped. Plus, nothing on the back of a Spotmatic.

I just picked up an X-T20, which is a near functional equivalent in terms of features and with an identical sensor and image processor. I am very happy with the camera overall; however, the three things I find distracting are: 1. the very small size (I have larger than average hands, I think) 2. the large number of dials and buttons 3. when holding it, I inadvertently activate the menu because my right hand palm near my thumb routinely bumps the menu/arrow keys on the back of the camera. I have partially mitigated #3 by buying the grip, but it still happens occasionally. To me, this is a significant design flaw but one which I am willing to tolerate. An X-T2 will have problems 2 and 3 but because it is larger I suspect 1 will be less of an issue. The benefits of the camera outweigh these detriments for me. I only have two Fuji lenses, the 16-50 and 50-230. Most of the time I use my Canon FD lenses with a Metabones Speedbooster. The manual focus features are really fantastic for the Fuji, much better than my Sony a7. I sold my Canon gear (5Dm2 plus half a dozen lenses) a few years ago and have no regrets.

In the old days, B let you press and hold the shutter button to keep the shutter open, whereas T allowed you to push the button to open it, then push it a second time to close it. This is how it works on my Bronica GS-1 lenses. This helps prevent battery drain on the camera because it has an electronic shutter.

Looks like an Impala with a V8.

35mm, 120 or something else? Delta 100 and Acros are my favorites. I use more XTOL and Perceptol than others.

This is congruent with my experience, too. I used it throughout college in journalism in the early '80s, and thereafter until the mid-2000s.

Batteries Plus put new cells in my SLX battery for something like $25. I had them put in NiMH instead of NiCd but then found out the SLX charger does not work with them. I bought a Synergy Smart Charger and it works fine. Also, I can't leave the battery in the camera; otherwise, it runs down in just a few days. Strange problem. Must have some kind of short.

A few from Zion National Park with the Sony a7 and Canon FDn 17mm f/4.

Don't know about Panatomic X, but I'm sure Adox CMS20 in 35mm would out resolve Tri-x in 6x7.

The New FD lenses were made of a polymer resin, a type of "plastic". I think complaints about "plastic" cameras are largely overstated. After all, these polymers are used in the manufacture of many things, including this. http://www.airlinereporter.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/New-787-livery.jpg

Still many in the USA. Dwayne's in Parsons, Kansas for one. You can also buy E6 kits if you have a tank.

Just look at the sales. Mirrorless cameras have been escalating; SLRs, not so much. Smaller, lighter, more reliable, less expensive, etc. I think the introduction of the Sony Alpha 9's electronic viewfinder may be the tipping point. It's now shown up in the new A7R III and I suspect its technology will spread to other mirrorless cameras as its cost declines. This, to me, is the proverbial straw that will break the SLR's back.

XTOL in a wine box bladder will last >1 year. It maintains film speed (D-76 loses ~1/3 stop) and is pretty decent for pushing. I also suggest Ilford Delta 3200 at 1000 or 1600 for indoor B&W work. Not much more grain than pushed HP5+ but with much better shadow detail.

DxO acquires Nik Collection from Google and will continue to offer it for free... for now I suspect it will become pay software once again. So, update for free while you can.

I think the days of the SLR are numbered.

Never had to do this. I have CS5 running on 3 different Macs, one original DVD install and two by Migration Assistant.

Why aren't you using Migration Assistant? It will effectively clone your old Mac to your new one.

Migration Assistant should preserve your Photoshop on the new computer. I'm still on CS5 and it's running on my current Macs.

I'm sure you're in the minority in that you've done a lot of film processing in hotels. I suspect the OP will be doing this at home, like the great majority of us, where control of light is pretty easy. I'm curious, why does it take you 10-15 min to load a roll or two of film onto a reel? The only time I use a light bag is when I'm loading 4x5 film into holders in the field. I suspect the OP won't be processing at 78F as he is just starting out and will likely stay in the 68F range, like most of us do most of the time. Water at tap temp in most places will be perfectly fine for film (though I always use stop bath for prints). Perhaps we can better tailor this discussion if the OP can provide additional details about his working environment.

As noted above, if you're in the USA Craigslist is a great source. Really, all you need is a developing tank with reel(s) (plastic is cheaper than stainless), developer, stop bath, Photo Flow (or equivalent), two 1 gallon plastic containers (for developer and fixer), and a photo thermometer. No need for a changing bag because any bathroom will work provided you can make it light tight. No need for stop bath, either. For developer, I recommend something that has a long shelf life. Alternatively, I use XTOL mostly and have it in a wine bladder to keep air out. It will last more than a year.