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andylynn

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Everything posted by andylynn

  1. Somebody tell me if I’m doing this wrong but: I only shoot raw these days so I don’t worry about color space when shooting. Anything that’s for display on screens get exported in sRGB because that’s what most people’s displays are set to. If I’m going to print from an app other than what I processed it in, or export for another editor, that’s Adobe RGB.
  2. Every couple of years I go through a phase where the classic camera call to me and I need shot from for a time. Although most times I’m using digital.
  3. $10 says this doesn’t work and that just supplying power to the pins that carry the voltage that drives all the lens’ mechanical parts is not sufficient to get working VR.
  4. That’s not ironic. He posts a Sony/Nikon/Canon comparison every few hours.
  5. Focus and VR with 3rd party lenses on the FTZ adapter is case-by-case. I know that Tamron has a compatibility chart, and for example the 45 is compatible with a firmware update, which you can do if you have access to a tap-in console. I replaced my Tamron 70-300 with an AF-P Nikkor FX version because my Tamron was the previous model that can’t be made compatible, and it was very glitchy.
  6. If you zoom in on try6.jpg, this pattern in the darks. (It looks the same on a desktop but right now it’s easiest to show using my phone’s screen capture.)
  7. I haven't tried the 24-200 but I've read only good things. Sounds like a solid upgrade over your current kit.
  8. There's a pattern across the whole frame, I don't know where it came from but it looks like the "worms" you get when you use Adobe on a Fuji raw file took a growth hormone overdose. I don't know if it came from the raw conversion or the noise reduction or something GIMP did or what but I have to assume it's coming from software.
  9. Don't be scared away by the "kit lens" designation. It's an excellent lens. Super sharp, quick to focus, weather sealed.
  10. These are all good cameras. All can help you get good results. If there’s some reason to go with a particular brand (e.g. you already have good Nikon or Canon glass and flashes), stick with that Otherwise, I’m recommending the Nikon because when you say “hybrid” to me that means you shoot both photo and video, and from what I’ve seen the Nikon has the best color in video of the three. It’s also better at stabilizing than the Sony (which is most people’s default these days) and has much better weather sealing.
  11. A 7 year old Sigma that has to use that terrible software for raw processing? I wouldn't do it. Better off with the Sony of a Fuji X100-series, so you can use regular software.
  12. 128gb SD cards are about $40 now. On an XPro2 that’s about 5000 compressed raws. Just pack a few extra SD cards and don’t worry about it until you get home.
  13. SD cards are so cheap now and your cameras have two slots. I’d just use two cards in duplicate mode and not rely on the app. It can be a pain, and I don’t know if the Android version allows transferring raws or full size JPG but if it does I bet it would take a really long time. Can you plug an SD card reader into an Android phone then browse it and offload files?
  14. A Scanjet 4600 isn’t a transparency scanner. It’s not going to be possible to get a good result regardless of the quality of the negative. A transparency flatbed scanner, like an Epson V-whatever, has a lamp in the lid. When it’s in film mode it uses that lamp to shine light through the film. An Epson will work for smaller prints. You can get about 6mp of image data. A dedicated 35mm film scanner can give you more, so that the limitation is the quality of the image in the negative, not the scanner. You want one that’s usb and either has software that supports your OS, or I’d in the compatibility list for Vuescan. Mine is a Minolta Dual IV, which is fine and cheap and works with Vuescan, but doesn’t have ICE. ICE is a nice feature that removes dust from the image.
  15. Film cameras expose film. Digital cameras create digital files.
  16. 24 is plenty for most purposes, whether you’re in b&w or color. Unless you have a particular reason why you want more pixels, don’t worry about it.
  17. But how much better? You take a higher res sensor, it will get more noise per pixel but there’s more information so with decent work on noise reduction you can get a good result. Is an A7Siii really going to be two-plus stops better in the end?
  18. Is an A7Siii that much better than an A7iii at high iso? I thought the A7iii was supposed to be very good at that. But anyway, if I wanted a Sony kit I’d take more pixels and faster glass. I can’t really see buying an A7Siii unless it’s for high end video work.
  19. First snow, southern New Hampshire. (Z7, 70-300mm AF-P)
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