ty_mickan

Since my last post I've also purchased a DP3 Quattro and also decided to move the Sony RX1 on because I just had no urge to use it after shooting with the Sigma cameras. They really do suit my style of shooting and I don't find any of the oft mentioned drawbacks to be an issue for me, at least not enough to worry me.

Thanks guys, I ended uip getting both. I got the RX1 for AUD$700, and used A7's with no lenses are going for AUD$850. I pick up the Sigma on Friday. I think I can use LIghroom with the Sigma raw files nowadays. I had the original X100 and sold it after a few month - did not like the camera. I bought it, so obviously I thought I would. I never could put my finger on why I didn't click with it.

Hello Does anyone here have any experience with these two cameras? I am looking to get a camera (my Samsung S20 is my only current digital camera) and have narrowed it down to these two. I have previously owned an RX1 with the EVF and was mostly happy with it. I now really only shoot slow paced landscapes and objects, but a little flexability wouldn't hurt. However, there is a DP1M available at my local camera store that has me intrigued, and the image quality, at least at low ISO, is raved about. I shoot mostly B&W and I have also read that the Foveon sesnor is particularly well suited to this. I have also read that it is tedious to work with, but having owned Hasselblad, Pentax and Rolleicord (along with developing and scanning), I cannot see that the inconvenience could be that bad. I do prefer to work more methodically. Any input on the comparitive resolving power of these two cameras would be appreciated. I should say that the RX1 with EVF that I am looking to purchase is similar in price to the DP1 Merrill.

I have a Pentax Digital spot meter and a Sekonic incident meter, however I mostly use my iPhone with the MyLightMeter app. It is extremely accurate,and you have the advantage over other reflective meters that you can see the exact image on the phone that is being metered. You have the ability to zoom into zones (in the Pro version) to act like a crude spot meter also. It won't replace my Sekonic for fast paced paying jobs, but for a casual stroll with my Rolleiflex loaded with C41 or Tri-X, the iPhone is more than accurate. Hey, the app is free, so try it before you drop $$ on a dedicated meter.

As mentioned, it does depend on the style of your landscape. With the modern trend to put foreground objects with lead in lines, then hyperfocal may well be the best option. I rarely shoot this way, and as such, I aim for a lens size of around 4mm and use infinity focus. This will give the optimum for mid and far range sharpness, sacrificing foreground (if you have one). DoF - different formats?

<p>To me shooting Leica's was <em>always</em> about the rangefinder focusing (with interchangeable lenses). The fabled Leica image quality is exaggerated. I've owned aspherical and non-ashperical Summicron's and Summilux's, in 35mm, 50mm, 75mm - all M Mounts, and I have taken photos with $100 Mamiya MF lenses, and a $10 Petri Racer that are every bit as good. But if the <em>rangefinder</em> style photography particularly resonates with you, simply buying an autofocus camera that looks like a rangefinder may disappoint.</p>

<p>I'm not familiar with repairers/manufacturer support, however there is a tremendous support group on the Facebook. It runs on XP, and it is best to just buy a cheap used laptop ($50) to use as a dedicated machine. I run mine however on a Windows 10 machine just using Oracle Virtual Box (still requires XP software). </p><div></div>

<p>I've owned the Nikon Coolscan 5000 the Canoscan 8800 something. I currently also own the Epson V700. All good scanners, but for 35mm I use the Pakon F135. I would not consider anything else after using one of these.</p>

<p>Mamiya 645 Super with 40mm and 80mm lens, and some Fuji Velvia. No need to worry about editing, so more time shooting. This kit could be had for $600. </p>

<p>I would not discount the EPL2 because of the viewfinder. The camera is still really fully functional without is, and you could add the EV at a later stage when your funds permit. I have owned a myriad of SLR's, including the Nikon D3, and I enjoyed my EPL2 more than any of them. I have just recently starting looking to repurchase one for times when I absolutely must shoot digital. They are smaller than an SLR, so you might be more inclined to have your camera with you more, they have amazingly sharp lenses (no retro focus required like an SLR), and have some fun art modes as well for times when you want try something different.</p><div></div>

<p>Why limit yourself to an SLR? I personally think that a fixed lens rangefinder would be an even better step towards a manual camera as a learning tool. Something like an Olympus 35 SP or a Canonet, or even cheaper like a Petri Racer/7s. Fully manual, no meter (at least usually one that doesn't work) to force you to learn to read light, fixed focal length to really focus your photography, will have a fast lens at low cost, light so you can take it with you everywhere, and cheap $50-150.</p>

<p>Rick, I think I will do that.<br> Ty</p>

<p>It might be an idea to get something like at Metz Hammerhead flash. You may find your camera easier to handle with one of these large flashes than a Speedlite attached to the hotshoe atop your camera. Ideally you would have an assistant who could simply hold a reflector over your should and then you could bounce the flash off that (it would act like a softbox, which tries to simulate natural light such as window light). Point the flash in the air outside is pointless - the bounce card is only there to get a little catch light in the eyes. Beginners would do this trying to mimic a pro who would do this only as a last resort, and only indoors with a moderately low ceiling. Point the flash at your subject and dial it down to suit your tastes. As others have said, you need to get your exposure to match ambient, maybe a stop down, and fill in with a little flash. On camera flash, built-in or Speedlite, will only get you so far.<br> All the best.</p>

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