JosvanEekelen

<p>TESA 4972 double-sided tape according to B+H's website. Do a Google search, there is some info around but it is rather fragmented. </p>

<p>Thanks for your reply, I had not realised that the auto diaphragm is of less importance because the EVF afjusts its light intensity.<br> BTW, if you look at this <a href="http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPFD-E-BM2">http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPFD-E-BM2</a> link, it says: <em>"True electronic integration of aperture diaphragm - let camera automatically choose aperture in P or S exposure modes, or dial in yourself on the camera body in A or M modes.", </em>and the accompanying pictures show a signalling lever in the adapter. So it seems possible to make such an adapter although it is rarely been done. </p>

<p>to clarify this, I meant the automatic closure of the aperture/diaphragm blades. When using FD lenses on a mirrorless body you´ll have to close the diaphragm blades manually. 30 yr old bodies do this automatically, with the help of a few pins and levers. I can´t imagine that these can´t be duplicated by electromagnets (like Metabones does), for a few extra dollars.</p>

<p>Stephen, thanks for your reply. I have seen adapters with a (mechanical) switch to open and close the aperture but I'm still curious why it's apparently impossible to include one or two electronically set levers in the adapter to set the aperture. Metabones seems to have found a way to accomplish that.<br> Anyhow, I think Canon owes it to the FD users to make such an adapter for the EOS-M :-)</p>

<p>On Jan 6th there was a thread about Nikon's business model. Although the discussion did not go out of hand the thread seeems to have disappeard from the forum pages. Nor the unified view or the Nikon forum list the thread. I can however find it using this link: <a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00d3EE?unified_p=1">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00d3EE?unified_p=1</a> , although I cannot reply to it and there is no mention of ending the thread.<br> Is this a glitch in my browser (probably not since Windows 8/IE11, Ubuntu/Firefox nor iPad show the thread), or is this related to the Photo.net database? Or was the thread ended by a forum maintainer?</p>

<p>I'm considering buying a mirrorless camera, mainly for the compact size but also to use the few Canon FD lenses I still have on it. The latter of course with the proper adapter. When looking at these adapters I noticed that most of them are simple mechanical ones, without auto aperture. And then there are the Metabones adapters, complete with optical elements and a hefty price tag.<br> My question is: do adapters exist for mounting legacy lenses on mirrorless bodies that allow for auto aperture and if not, is there a technical reason for not making these adapters? I don't mind about the cropping factor so no ooptical elements are needed<br> I post this in the mirrorless forum because the question may be of interest for users of other legacy lenses as well.</p>

<p>Have a look at depth of field, DOF. You'll find several good DOF calculators on the internet plus some extra info. When shooting close-ups of flowers your depth of field is small, when you get closer it becomes razor thin. Make use of this and add the proper post processing and you'll see that your pictures can come out much better than you think now.</p>

<p>It's not clear if the picture shows any information. First question would be whether the mirror comes up and whether the shutter opens. You can easily check this by removing the lens, setting a long shutter speed (1 sec or so) and pressing the shutter button. Try this and move from there on.</p>

<p>The focal length as stated on the lens is measured while focussed at infinity. Depending on the lens construction the actual focal length may be very different at close focus, as you have found out.</p>

<p>Yes, Canon is going to release a 6D-II but nobody knows when and what it will be named. Rebates come and go and the price of camera models tends to drop during their lifecycle. So buy it if you needed or wait if you need it later on.</p>

<p>Oh, I was expecting a rumour fot the mkIII lens. Anyway, that can wait untill 2015.</p>

<p>In addition to my previous reply: I had a brief look at shutter lags as reported by Imaging-resource.com. The RX100 cameras may have a short shutter lag but that's without AF/flash/etc. I wonder whether the circumstances with the shortest shutter lag are practical for their needs. Otherwise, with AF and/or flash, the shutter lag seems to be quite normal to me.</p>

<p>I always preferred the Canon rumors to the Nikon ones.</p>

Better ask why shutter lag is so important to him first. A lot of settings (autofocus, flash, etc.) influence shutter lag.

<p>Film can accumulate quite a bit of dust. In my experience even after using a blower on a slide there is still some dust remaining.<br> Removing in post is an alternative. Photoshop can do that, perhaps you can find the Polaroid Dust and Scratch Removal Tool somewhere on the internet (if not send me an email and I'll mail you a copy). I haven't thorougly tested these options but both seem to work. I'm not aware of other software options.</p>

<p>I'm not impressed. The examples they are giving are nog about gray import but about fraud. The charger for my camera batteries is suited for 100-240 V, 50/60 Hz. So if I buy a camera in the US and import it to Europe I only have to find a mains cord and I'm set to use the thing.<br> Alternatively it is of course possible that we in Europe get better items because of the 2 yr warranty as opposed to 1 yr in the US. Frankly I don't think there are quality differences. It's probably all about market protection. </p>

<p>Axel Rietschin's workaround works for me on a 64 bits Windows 8.1 system.</p>

Hi Kris, it would help if you could post an example of your picture.

<p>This seems to be a generic trigger, not made to function with Canon's remote flash system. From the description I don't see the details of the triggers but I assume you have to mount the transmitter on your camera and connect the receiver to the flash, the latter probably using a sync cable. Set the speedlite to it's normal mode (not slave or master) and the kit will trigger the flash. You may have to set the flash to manual or autoflash, depending on what the 600 supports.</p>

<p>Don't believe everything they show on TV.</p>

<p>I gladly join the technical support group :-). You have two problems, I can't help you with the LR upgrade problem, the suggestion to call Adobe seems to be a good one but this will only upgrade your LR version, it will not add D610 support. This requires a more recent version of Adobe Camera RAW, which is not supported by LR4. I have the same problem with my girlfriend's Canon EOS 70D. I convert these files with Adobe DNG converter to DNG, these files are handled by LR4 without a problem. So the DNG converter is the way to go. Alternatively you can use the proprietary Nikon software.</p>

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<p>Depends on what you use LR for. There is now hardly any competition to LR when it comes to organizing pictures. For organizing pictures Picasa can be seen as an ultralight version of LR.<br> If you use Aperture mainly for correcting pictures lots of other programs can be used; the proprietary software that came with your camera, CaptureOne, RAWtherapee (freeware), others.<br> I hope that the next LR version will be available as stand alone software and not part of CC only.</p>

<p>Diopters are not great for close-up work, forget about the single element ones, have a look for 2-element diopters (Nikon, Canon) instead. Be aware, these come at a cost.</p>

<p>+1 for <a href=" Or search for Tim Grey on YouTube, his instruction videos are worth looking at. <br> <br> The tools I use in the develop module: <br /><br> Auto, followed by Ctrl-Z ; this step can be skipped since Auto rarely produces an optimal result. <br /><br> 1. Highlights -100, Shadows +100, Clarity +15<br /><br> 2. while you keep Alt pressed: move Whites up and Blacks down until clipping becomes visible, then decrease these values untill there is no clipping. <br /><br> 3. adjust vibrance (portraits) or saturation (no people) as needed. <br /><br> In most cases that does the trick, at least it's a good start. If it does not work try other settings. <br /></p>