JosvanEekelen

<p>Use hyperfocal focussing. If properly set everything will be in focus from (for instance) 40 cm to infinity at f/5.6. The lens probably has distance and DOF scales, use to learn these and you'll have no problems focussing.</p>

<p>I just take the pictures in the field, sometimes entirely by hand, or from a tripod if I have it with me. I don't bother about looking at the stitched picture immediately, I do that later at home. If in doubt I take the pano twice, just to be sure.<br> I'd bring a netbook with Microsoft ICE if I really had to evaluate the result in the field but I might use other software for the final stitching. </p>

<p>Can it be that you have given it too much thought? A few of your remarks and pictures ring all kind of alarm bells: you're shooting in Manual mode, use the backbutton (how is it programmed?), one shot mode for moving subjects.<br /> I'd go back to more or less auto settings. The pictures you posted don't require Manual exposure, auto should be fine. Keep ISO at 1600 or so, use P/Av/Tv in such a way that you get a shutter speed of 1/250 or so and use AI Servo. I'd choose a smaller opening, f/2.8 or f/4.0 but that's personal. Forget the back button, set the camera to AE/AF with the shutter button. Take some pictures, try several settings and work from there.<br /> Options to consider are a shorter shutter speed (through higher ISO) and the several AF options the 70D offers like grouping the AF points etc. Also shoot bursts, the 2nd or 3rd shot may be sharper than the first. Since you can't control the exact movements of the dogs it is not about keeper rates but about getting a few (very) good shots. Discard/forget the rest of them, memory space is cheap.</p>

<p>Dan please read my comment or this <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2c.html">http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2c.html</a> article, the part about the electronic shutter (about 3/4ths down the page). This is not about a FP shutter sec but about electronic shutters, fully opening the focal plane shutter and reading out the sensor in times shorter than the X-sync. This is typically done in Live View and video.<br> I'm fully aware of the way a focal plane shutter works, FP flash/HSS to circumvent the X-sync limitation but also curious about electronic shutters. I'm a bit surprised that this is not more widely discussed.</p>

<p>@Dan: The fact that he was able to get a proper flash exposure with a focal plane shutter led me to the conclusion that the shutter was fully opened and then read out electronically at speeds shorter than the sync speed. AFAIK that's the only way to get it working. Technically I think this is not uncommon, I've seen some articles about the electronic readout of the sensor in the past but unfortunately I have neglected these. <br> The advantage is that you can not only use older flash units but also studio flashes this way, although I must admit that the benefits are minor. I'm in for a new DSLR, this feature would not be decisive but it could be something to consider.</p>

<p>Thanks for your input. Indeed all or most DSLR's have a focal plane shutter but don't have the newer ones an electronic shutter as well? In video mode they offer a nice range of shutter speeds, without the shutter opening and closing all the time. I can't imagine this being done without an electronic shutter.<br> The effect I saw was definitely not FP sync/HSS. This was realized direct on camera and/or with a Yongnuo 622 trigger and a thirtysomething yr old flash. <br> A similar effect can be realized with HSS flash at the cost of flash output but it would be nice to be able to do the same with older flash units, without the need to buy multiple E-TTL flashes.</p>

<p>Recently a friend showed the ability of a Nikon D3(s?) to sync a flash with shutter speeds as short as 1/8000 sec., even with 30 yr old flash units. He couldn't tell how this was achieved though. His thought that a very fast (mechanical) shutter was used seems very unlikely to me. No HSS was set , and even so these old flashunits will not suppot it. After giving it some thoughts I expect that an electronic shutter did the trick. Please let me know if you have other suggestions. <br> Does Canon also use an electronic shutter , on which bodies and how to set it? I'm a Canon user but my bodies are too old to support this. I have tried my girlfriend's EOS 70D until now without succes. Either it's not supported or it's carefully hidden in the menus. I see some benefits of this technique hence the question. <br> Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Anyway, Lightroom rules. Not good that there is hardly any competition when it comes to organizing photos.</p>

<p>Most recent EOS film bodies also have an electrical remote. With the Elan series/EOS30/EOS50 you may need a proprietary plug, AFAIK the Rebel series/EOS500/EOS300 have a more common plug (2.5 or 3.5 mm jack).</p>

<p>Be prepared for a leaking battery, hence the remark about cleaning. A stuck battery is not normal, find out what's causing this before it does any/more harm to the camera.</p>

<p>Canon's software can be downloaded from Canon websites. In fact the software is labelled as update but it is a full program. But: in order to install you need some (at least one) Canon piece of software installed, for instance from CD.<br> Search the archives for workarounds. You may be able to find a very early program (DPP 1) that you can install without the CD and then install/update to whatever you want/need. </p>

<p>From memory: 7N/7NE are upgrades to 7/7E. The "E" models have eye controlled autofocus. After calibrating ECF you just look at the focussing point and the camera focusses to that point.<br> Canon: are you reading this? I want ECF back because I like it and it works for me. <br> OK, emotion aside, ECF does not work for everybody but often this is a case of calibration. Have a look at the Canon Camera Museum for details about these cameras: <a href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/index.html">http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/index.html</a> </p>

<p>Under Dutch law what she did is perfectly legal. You gave her the picture and she is free to use it, at least for her own private use. This may be different in the US or wherever you live but as others have stated, don't bother, contact and thank her for promoting you. <br />Keep in mind that the public in general has little knowledge about copyright.</p>

<p>Don't overthink it; in part it is just hard work. see this link: <a href="http://gizmodo.com/the-inside-story-of-how-olympic-photographers-capture-s-1521746623">http://gizmodo.com/the-inside-story-of-how-olympic-photographers-capture-s-1521746623</a> for an impression of Sotchi. I suppose FIFA will be similar.<br> I don't know if it's still around but I remember a similar (Sports Illustrated) article about the 2004 Superbowl. Things were way different then with runners picking up memory cards from photographers and central processing of images. </p>

<p>Focus and recompose is the way to go. Alternatively you can focus on the matte part of the focussig screen but that may be a bit difficult, depending on the lenses you are using. Faster lenses will "snap" into focus, with slower lenses reaching focus is not so obvious in the viewfinder.<br> Cameras of the A1 era in general use center weighted averaging metering, this has a slight emphasis on the center and lower part of the image. If your subject is off center you may have to compensate. There is no fixed rule for the compensation, depending on the difference between the center and the subject the compensation may be positive or negative; large or small. </p>

<p>OK, on further reading I noticed that PTlens is able to correct moustache distortion. I'll look further into this :-)</p>

<p>I have been looking at the same lens but it's distortion witholds me at the moment. According to tests/reviews the distortion is "moustache" like, so I'm not sure that programs like PTlens or Adobe's lens profile editor can easily correct the distortion.<br> I have a similar problem with adding a lens profile to LR4, haven't tried to solve it yet so I can't offer you any help with this. </p>

<p>Nothing special about sensor cleaning but first of all I wonder why you use Smear Away instead of Sensor Clean/VDust Plus, although I'm not convinced that the differences between these liquids are huge.<br> It is my experience that remaining streaks are the result of using an excess of liquid, so using less is the solution. This is based on a Canon 5D, AKA dust magnet.<br> Since now you have streaks/smears on you sensor the first thing to do is get rid of them. AFAIK this can only be done by wet cleaning, either by yourself or by someone else/Nikon.<br> For dust removal I have obtained good results with the Arctic Butterfly. This won't help with smears but is great for removing dust. Perhaps you can consider this for future cleanings.<br> And USD 100 for sensor cleaning is ridiculous. Maybe they have done a CLA as well but if I were you I'd discuss the price level and ask for a sensor cleaning only.</p>

The red windoe does't say anything about slave functionality. It's often used for a preflash. See your manual for further option for your flash.

<p>@Shun: no longer lens is needed but more magnification. Probably the same lens but with extra's: bellows, reverse mounted, etc. Certainly not standard. Not extremely costly but requires time and practice.<br> @Rebecca: was the failure due to the extension tube ? It must be possible to shoot a decent picture with tubes although admittedly a real macro lens performs better.</p>

<p>Rebecca, I think you're setting your goals too high for the moment. Most macro lenses go to a magnification of 1:1, meaning that the image on the sensor will be the same size as your subject (on full frame, on your camera you even get a 1.5 magnification). The point of a pen or a waterdrop are very small, this requires special techniques and experience. IMO it's best to start with a 100 mm macro lens, learn the technology and practice macro photography. The droplet and the pen will come later. Macro lenses are not extremely difficult to build, most of them are good so it won't be difficult to find one that fits your budget and gives excellent results. Later you can always add extension tubes to get more magnification.<br> BTW, Canon makes a macro lens that goes to 5 times magnification but I'm afraid it's out of your budget and it doesn't fit your camera. Fortunately there are more ways to get some extra magnification but safe that for later.<br> Success and good luck with macro photography.</p>

You're right. My girlfriend has a Chinese collar for her 70-300, the quality of the collar is nowhere near that of the original Canon or Sigma ones.

<p>Present day Canon close up filters are doublets as well, this is indicated by the letter "D" in the name. Ones without "D" are single lenses. I've never heard about Glanz though.</p>

<p>see this: <a href="http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/ht/default-program-windows-7.htm">http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/ht/default-program-windows-7.htm</a> link. CR2 and/or JPG files are probably linked to zoombrowser, change that to DPP and it should work as you prefer.</p>

<p>Depends on your operating system but it seems that your pictures (jpg?,cr2?) are linked to Zoombrowser. This has nothing to do with Canon software but has to be set in the OS. Which one are you using?</p>