JosvanEekelen

<p>I don't own any of these but based on the Canon info I don't think this is going to work. 430EX is optical only, STE3 is radio only, 600 EX (I assume RT) is radio + optical slave, no optical master. AFAIK you can't set the 600 EX as slave so that it accepts a signal from the STE3 and as a master controller for the 430 EX. <br> Perhaps with a 3rd party trigger system (Yongnuo), or with an STE2. Or go the manual route with simple optical triggers.</p>

<p>At least one of the tests of the 7D-II I have read indicates that the sensor is just as good as Nikon/Sony's at high ISO values. This is what counts with BIF pictures.<br> The OP mentiones "incredible shadow detail out of some long exposure shots...". Bird photography and long exposure don't go together, they move too fast and a 400 mm or longer lens require really short shutter speeds. I guess the grass is always greener at the other side.</p>

<p>Flash Exposure Compensation = FEC</p>

<p>I think I saw Sirui's version of an automatic leg release at a show a couple of weeks ago, though I did not pay much attention to it. I seems that you can release all locks (of one leg of course) in one twist, but you'll have to tighten each lock seperately. I was not impressed with their ballheads though. <br />For travel purposes I have a (carbon fiber) Feisol tripod that is ok (for travel). <br />You might have a look at the Manfrotto 055 carbon fiber tripods.</p>

<p>Faststone Image Viewer, Picasa are both worth looking at and free. It's probably best to have a look at Lightroom now.</p>

<p>For the 24-105 f/4L the part cost was EUR 57.50, labor cost was EUR142.50. These aperture units seem a good investment :-)</p>

<p>Canon's 85/1.8 is rather affordable. I guess it's a matter of numbers sold. The 85 mm face a fierce competition from 100 mm (macro) lenses.</p>

<p>I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago with the 24-105 f/4L. The aperture unit (blades + motor/electromagnets) was broken. Repair was approximately EUR 200 by an independant repairer. I hope the unit for your lens is still available or you have to search for such a lens with a broken AF motor and working aperture unit.</p>

I don't think you have to delete anything; you can just start all over with a new catalog and forget the present one or delete it later.

<p>"If I upgrade to the standalone version, which Adobe says is the final version..." AFAIK a few months ago Adobe stated that LR will remain a standalone program but of course this may have been changed. I'm counting on a standalone version 6 of LR. Photoshop CS that's a different story.</p>

<p>Sorry to hear that. I have a few Metz units that are quite nice with unique properties that the original Canon units did not offer but unfortunately compatibility was a big issue with these units. One of these is completely obsolete, the other one finds its use as a 2nd flash in full manual mode. I hope Metz recovers, not only for the flash units but also for the people employed with the company.</p>

<p>The combination of a wide angle lens and a (short) extension tube may be the first experiment. I did some shots last week with a (Canon) 20-35 mm lens + a 12 mm extension tube. Results were not spectacular, I guess I'll have to do a bit more testing. AFAIK the shortest macro lenses have a focal length of 40 or 50 mm.</p>

<p>Have you considered a combination of a Optech rainsleeve for the 5D and a waterproof P&S for when things really get wet?</p>

<p>I assume you have tried every trick in the book to accomplish a shorter shutter time? Have a look at the Supersync feature of the trigger, that may do the trick, albeit at the cost of reduced flash power but that's also the case with high speed flash on a 5D.</p>

<p>Hi Eleftherios, good to take lessons, there is a lot to learn. You have found out that the amount of light depends on shutter speed, aperture setting and ISO. In your case the lens' maximum opening is probably in the 4.0-5.6 range, thus the lens is called "slow".<br /> A faster lens, f/1.8 would have helped and these are relatively inexpensive. Plus a flash, with the proper technique would have helped as well. The shutter speed is set to 1/60, being the shutter sync speed or near to that, it is the minimum flash shutter speed. <br /> Time to get learning, try the learning tab on the top page of Photo.net. Start with exposure, the relation between shutter speed, ISO and aperture. Then have a look at flash photograpy and associated technique. Succes.<br> BTW, I use indirect flash with a separate flash unit and high ISO settings in cases like the one you describe. </p>

<p>These preferences are very personal. I use a Manfrotto monopod with the 222 pistol grip for versatility but the combo is too large to hide in a backpack. Manfrotto makes a special small monopod head. Together with a small monopod this will fit a backpack.<br> Several companies make small/lightweight tripods. I like the Feisol traveller, it's small enough to fit into a large backpack.<br> WRT QR systems: I don't like the Arca Swiss ones although I must admit I have never used the versions with the quick release system. Without this it takes too much fiddling to mount the camera. I prefer the Manfrotto RC4 mounting system but as I said: YMMV.</p>

<p>Photonet has a short video on geotagging (the Map feature) in Lightroom: <a href="/learn/digital-darkroom/lightroom-map-mode/">http://www.photo.net/learn/digital-darkroom/lightroom-map-mode/</a> . Photonet and Dpreview forums have some additional info, search for geotagging.</p>

Convert: no, but you can buy additional Wifi and GPS units. Geotagging is what you're looking for. I use a handheld (Garmin Oregon) GPS to record a track and add the info to the pictures later in Lightroom. I'm a bit weary of the photo GPS units because of power consumption, there are several ways for geotagging, also several programs. Geosetter comes to mind but others exist.

<p>Go for the Speedlite 430 EX-II. It's not expensive and you can use the 70D's built in flash as a master and the 430 EX-II as a slave.<br> When considering a 3rd party flash keep in mind that some of these have a AF helplight that does not cover all the EOS bodies' AF points. </p>

<p>IMHO the upgrade from LR3 to LR is worth the extra money but if you like your present workflow Ellis' suggestion is a good one; convert your files to DNG with Adobe's (free) DNG converter and use these files in LR/PS. I currently do this with my girlfriend's EOS 70D files. Because she still runs a Windows Vista laptop she can't upgrade to LR5. The DNG route adds one extra step, which I use to backup her files - just to be sure no files get lost.</p>

<p>You can download LR5 from the Adobe website and install it. If you still have your registration code you can use this version without problems. AFAIK the installation package runs on Windows and on IOS. I'm not sure whether the installation code is valid for IOS and Windows though.</p>

<p>WRT photo.net: you can remove your photos. Removing threads could be problematic since the flow of a discussion may get lost. I assume it wouldn't be too difficult for admins to change someones name into something like "anonymous_number_x" and leave the thread intact.<br> Please note that the Google ruling does not apply to other parts of the world and for the moment, not to photo.net.</p>

<p>If money is an issue go for the 60D, it's discounted now. I'm facing the 70D/7D dilemma also, it's a close call between these two. The 70D is a bit more versatile due to its fold-out screen, the 7D is a bit bigger/sturdier.<br> When you do weddings you'll need a backup system as well: lens(es), flash, etc. In that case two 600D's/700D's are better than one 7D/70D.<br> Your choice now should be aimed at school requirements and I think all 3 cameras you mentioned would do. given your tight budget a full frame body is something to consider later.</p>

<p>@Vaughan: Canon's move to digital has nothing to do with digital, they changed the mount approximately 15 years before DSLR's were introduced. Some 35 years back I chose Canon and while I don't know all ins and outs of Nikon lenses I have seen enough posts on photo.net to be sure that Nikon has issues with lens compatibility as well.</p>

<p>Normally the legset has a male thread, the head a female one. Threads are mostly 3/8", occasionally 1/4". Adapters are available if head and legset threads don't match.<br> Sagging is a well known problem with most ballheads, that's why I prefer a geared head but these are expensive and heavy. Can't you adjest the Gitzo head?<br> Markins Q3 is especially designed for the Gitzo Traveller series tripods. I have very positive experiences with the Feisol CB 40D ballhead (on a Feisol legset - more or less a copy of the Gitzo Traveller). </p>