JosvanEekelen

<p><a href="http://photoephemeris.com/">http://photoephemeris.com/</a> Free for desktop, paid apps for Android and IOS. Lets you calculate sun/moon positions everywhere on the planet.</p>

You should be able to see IS working through the viewfinder, especially at longer focal lengths. With IS the image is more stable/less shaky than without.

<p>I read somewhere (don't know if it is true or not) that you can't do HDR or stacking with a RAW because it is just a file, not an image yet. Following this thought RAWs should be converted to JPG or TIFF before doing HDR or stacking. I'm curious if anyone can shine a light on this.</p> <p>Apart from that you can often output a TIFF file. It's very large but you don't loose much as compared to a RAW.</p>

<p>It does, as you wish with the display facing in- or outside.<br> 70D is a great camera but first think about the extras it offers and whether you really need them. There should be only a neglectible difference in image quality between the two. Apart from that you get better AF, more FPS, etc.</p>

<p>I never worried much about hardware details so I can't give you a full answer but:</p> <ul> <li>IMHO your system should be able to run LR adequately. Batch processing always costs time so prepare for drinking some coffee or... I run LR 6 on a Core Duo 8GB + SSD system and it's ok for the moment. The rest of your system may be important as well, are you running 64 bits Windows? I have upgraded the system with an SSD + 4 GB RAM extra (coming from 4 GB) and it did help.</li> <li>Harddrive/Optical: HDD is for daily use, Optical disks for storage, backup etc. SSD for keeping the OS + program up to speed.</li> <li>Graphics card: LR's develop module and some of PS (don't know which part) uses the graphics card. Better check whether the Graphics card supports LR/PS before making the decision. (Mine doesn't so I can't comment on the speed improvement)</li> <li>Processor: Intel's i5 and i7 come in different flavours, it is my understanding that the exact model is more important than i5 or i7.</li> </ul>

<p>If your EXIF info is "normal" and corresponds roughly to the shooting conditions there seems to be little you can do. Perhaps cleaning the contacts but if that does not help I think it's time to visit Oly's service department. Or Panasonic's? Do you have Olympus lenses to test whether they function ok? Otherwise I'd contact Olympus.</p>

<p>EXIF info? Shooting conditions?</p>

<blockquote> <p> .....L-series lens to last for several hundred thousand shots in all kinds of conditions.</p> </blockquote> <p>Not all of them. My 24-105 f/4L failed after circa 20k shots. The diaphragm unit had to be replaced. Some 10 years ago there was a discussion about USM lenses. They are expected to fail after a few thousand hours of use - don't know in how many shots that translates since focussing time is very short, in general below 1 second. Probably several million shots.</p>

<p>LR shows an icon in the filmstrip if the image has been cropped. Maybe you heve the feature turned off. Rightclick on the filmstrip, choose view options and click on "show badges".</p>

<p>Polarizer and (split) ND filters.</p>

<p>DispcalGUI is open source software, free or donationware, I'm not quite sure but it seems to do the trick. <a href="http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/">http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/</a> has more info. According to an earlier pnet thread is is very slow but it seems to work.</p>

Cable seems to be the right one. I'd start by testing the cable without the Orbis. Also keep in mind that the Orbis takes away some (a lot of?) light.

<p>C'mon guys, the OP is asking in the beginners forum so adapted lenses are way beyond his/her thoughts. Same for firmware adaptions like Magic Lantern which is by the way no fun to use for a beginner.<br> Loren, since you seem to be on a budget a starter kit (body + standard zoom lens) is the best way to start. The extra price for the lens (as compared to body only) can't be beat. Just check offerings from the big companies (Canon, Nikon and the rest) and decide which one you like. Mirrorless or DSLR, there's a big difference in size, you may like one or the other more. Perhaps add a 50/1.8 lens (ca. EUR/USD 100) for low light situations and you're set to go. For the moment I'd go with a EOS 700D/Rebel T5i but YMMV. </p>

<p>Good question. It is more a matter of the right mount/bayonet than of the brand. In general Nikon lenses fit on Nikon bodies, other brands like Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and a few others make lenses for Nikon bodies as well. Check that the latter are made for Nikon since they will make the same lenses with other mounts (Canon, Pentax, Sony, etc) as well. Canon, Pentax, Sony lenses will not fit Nikon bodies.<br> There are a few more peculiarities of Nikon bodies and lens types, I trust other pnetters will inform you about this. </p>

<p>+1 for RAW but jpegs can be improved/corrected. Don't use a program that saves every processing step but one that let's you input all corrections and then process all of them in one go. Lightroom is capable of doing that, Photoshop too and probably lots of other programs.<br> You can't restore the information that was lost in the process of making the JPG out of a RAW but that doesn't mean that you can't improver the quality. </p>

<p>So it's back to the Canon software. I had an eye on the LR plugin when i was using LR4 and had forgotten about it when I upgraded to LR6. It's only a plugin so it won't hurt trying it.</p>

<p>Canon's software (DPP, others) will show the focus points.<br> For LR there is a plugin to show the focus points: <a href="http://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com/">http://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com/</a> According to the makers it works in LR 5 and above.</p>

<p>I'm only familiar with the A1 and AE1 models, the AV1 is a bit different so I can't reply from my own experience but I don't think testing with the lens half detached gives a good impression. I'd set the camera on B (Bulb) with different f-values to see whether the lens is stopped down, in other words whether the camera sets the lever so that the proper f-stop is set on the lens. Work from there and perhaps test with color film first, that's a lot cheaper.</p>

<p>Your picture does not come through. And do you mean Aperture as in the abandoned Apple program or as in lens opening? Posting a picture and/or EXIF info may help too.</p>

<p>@Jeff: IRS ?</p>

<p>I don't think my 5D focusses with an 8 stop ND filter attached.</p>

<p>Several ways to do it, copy the settings and save to next image, usse previous button in develop module.<br> Color histograms: AFAIK not in the upper right corner but they can be seen in the Tone Curve part of the develop module. </p>

<p>Just put the (new) pictures on the 2nd HDD, either throught LR's import module or with explorer/finder (depending on your OS), import in LR and the pictures will show in the Library module under "Folders". One thing to think about is defining the HDD's drive letter so that is is Always the same. Otherwise LR won't find the pictures/folders. (drive letters can change when you plug in thumbdrives or card readers before the external HDD).</p>

<p>No problem, LR can use several drives for the photo's to be located on, the catalog keeps track of all of them. No need to use a new catalog for the new drive. I have my catalog on an internal SSD, the files are on two external drivel. Works as it should.</p>

<p>That's one sexy leg Shawn. Nice picture.</p>