michael_przewrocki2

<p>Since under "Exposure" the thread " A-ttl versus E-ttl(or similar) is closed i will post my different findings with 380EX here:<br> 1. Never ever buy idiotic chinese copies. e.g. handstrap with plate. or external cable 2. TTL is not working with 380EX and 1000D. oncamera everything ok.<br> 2. i was surprised to see that zoom was set to 70 when dandelion-chip on contax/yashica adapter announced 85mm lens. 70 is closest.<br> 3. I could shoot highspeed(HI-setting). with non-properly working-cable from a certain exposure time on image was cut.<br> 4. i tested roundflash-copy. wanted to shoot at 1m/100iso and fully open f1.4. flashmeter showed f4 always but since subject was dark i could expose at f2.8 f2 and f1.4 were not compensated. maybe must use diffusor. whats your idea? roundflash is a big reflector like a ringlight. i even didnt see any differences when changing exposure times down to 1/4000. must test further. maybe i will see when shooting from larger distance.<br> this roundflash-copy should be worth opening a new thread. its about mounting flash and camera. it can be adventurous! only some flash-versions match without complications. Canon 380EZ or metz-flashes used, 32-MZ3.<br> Light is superbe, certainly also for portraits despite not so big diameter. it depends at which distance light is positioned. not always needed lens looking through center hole.</p>

<p>http://konost.com/?page_id=6714</p>

<p>Konost yes. BTW: maybe better moving this thread. sometimes its really hard to find the right section. I am seldom here.</p> <p>Had also great hope for Samsungs new quad-shaped(hasselblad) tiny cam for 3dstereo(to get smallest base).<br> In sigma-FB i also made a hastily response when someone showed wonderful shot of verzasca-valley, most ideal for foveon cams. it was a pair which was shooting and showing on dpreview and FB.... and i argued she has stolen the idea....Not good wrong thinking. it was ines mondon. wonderful shots, she should show them here.</p>

<p>AND: forget the chinese crappy external cable. cameraside screw is not ergonomical. get the original cable.<br />Be aware when changing exposure times in FP-mode: guideno. will change. see table on page 25<br />http://www.manualslib.com/manual/554722/Canon-Speedlite-380ex.html?page=25#manual<br />Correction:<br />I was wrong in last thread: Guidenumber-table is for meters see also page 44. nothing wrong.<br> 380 is a bid misleading, 38 can be reached with FL 105. and in FP-mode e.g.at 35mm its 28 which will drop when shorter than 1/180 will be used. down to 3.5 at 1/4000.</p>

<p>I am currently trying to find out how its behaving with 1000D(XS). here is a manual.<br />http://www.manualslib.com/manual/554722/Canon-Speedlite-380ex.html?page=25#manual<br />but the table and comment below is misleading. pls check 1/180 and 50(mm) where 16.6(m) is standing.<br> and below they say max. distance is: 11.9m.<br> interesting feature is memorizing flashlevel by pressing *-button. FE(Flash exposure lock)<br> I am trying to find out how to use FP, up to 1/4000 possible in HI-mode. different setting possible. <br />under certain circumstances set 1/4000 will go back to 1/200. dont yet have found out what causes this.<br />in my opinion one can change light-level by changing exposure-times.<br> Wanted to use f 1.4 for closeups 1m using flat round reflector.</p>

<p>He asked this: An uncle gave me these lenses. I don't know much about Nikon and would love to use them with my Canons.<br> and you gave the wrong answers.<br />There are AF-confirm-adapters.<br> Get this one nothing else: its worlds best with newest chiptechnology. and high-precision.<br> http://optixpcb.com/shop/products.php?32&sid=995de567a35d57e9f798e38b15051086<br />for my zeiss-lenses(i also have nikon F-MF-lenses) i will get v6-adapter.<br> i had all kind of problems with these adapter. have three types. all crap or not sharp at infinity. or limitations.<br> focus must be absolute precise. often there is no time using live-view.<br> btw: dpreview has kicked me out-without warning-forever(the second time) because i told in a thread(i was 3dreal) i will buy this adapter from opticpcb(HK).</p>

<p>About a year ago or beginning 2015 an independent company announced a camera system with three chip-sizes. aps-c, 1" and smaller.<br />aps-c with m-mount. Which company is this?</p>

<p>I have the older version without Fan but Bimetall which will shutdown at a reached temperature.<br> How is the Fan-version looking outside? Thanks a lot</p>

<p>the files you provided in dl-site did not show any size for apo-gerogons. technical description but no technical data. i have seen one file which does not show it.</p>

<p>still have problems finding specifications, all threads of apo-gerogons, g-clarons. aswered also in largeformatphotography and opened a thread in lounge.</p>

<p>I have the vivitar 2x macro-converter and i want it without the lenses. I once have seen such a converter with option for easy removal of lens-set. where can i find or which brand is that? thanks</p>

<p>Thanks a lot. I thought it since i have digged out schneider componon-S-data. all lenses from 135 to 300 have M55 to M77 threads all with .75 pitch.<br> rodagon G 105 and 150 both have M50 but no pitch defined in the list of prograf.ru<br> i understand that pitch is not changed for small mount to fit shutters.<br> what the biggest shutters mount? i have copal1. will use the lens with rsp-M39x1 adapter on copal-1 with M39X1 adapter. plus a combination with minimacro-helicoid by zoerk. we will see if i can work with it or a different helicoid is better<br> so now how are the thread-versions defined correctly? maybe you already answered in largeformat-forum.<br> M67 X0.75 is male<br> M67 F.75 is female correct?<br> Bob are you from B+H or catlabs?<br> i once have found a lens list with data in a forum but dont know anymore. google is blind.<br> i am trying to get a prospectus from ebay</p>

<p>Which pitch has the M50 thread of apo-gerogon 210/9? if only M50 is mentioned then is it always x1?</p>

<p>Winfried is not right. distancemeter electronically connected to flash on GX.<br> http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/chrono.html<br> No autoexposure, so if subject is too brigth its overexposed. its similar flashmatic-technique.<br> i would use automatic flash with computer apertures which can be set on camera. but flashmatic more failsafe.</p>

<p>I was told that for focalplane-shutter time is different at start and end. some in rumania is selling testers from 10 to 130 usd. the latter does not need PC and goes up to 1/8000 or 1/4000.</p>

<p>Those film-flatness-ignorants have never seen anything else that their "good enough" films or prints.<br> Similar unsharp-problem in rotapancam 35mm(not flatness-related)<br> When finding out that horizon s3pro new lens was crap at f16(showing diffraction) i have seen some idiots replying theirs is good(enough), because they didnt use a 30x-loupe to examine. I even needed best scanner to show difference to 202. of course even then they will now see the difference when shooting closeups because all horizon-lenses are set to infinity. one must add shim to film-rails. reported this endlessly in multiple forums. prove of my findings is gone thanks to pbase-dictatorship. Will not repeat/revive that report wiht image-proofs, have done that enbough over decades with no reaction regarding its produced KMZ. Instead of listening to experts they are busy offering crap-camera horizon compact or horizon perfect. one must look at its name to find out about my feeling. exchanging good lens by a "better" crap one is only crazy. what did they think. Would have better offered close-up-lenses like noble/noblex did.<br> had also a short despute with my lab when i have got unsharp prints(at the edges) from rotapan-film 70mm. printed with normal printer(not special one) the problem was in printer since only center of lens is used for the hole panorama. i then made testprints from the edges and proved that.<br> i has never been easy printing long panoramas on 8x10 or larger printer. special scan-printers were offered or some which had curved rails for print and film was moving. or some other construction i dont remember but have seen it in CH.</p>

<p>A12-filmflatness shooting Aerials: When darkslide-slit is not taped film could bulge every second or whatever amount of images show unsharp zone. Tip from HB Goeteborg after i had sold my ELX and 60mm....<br /> Now having 70mm backs again. Wonderful tips about filmtransport and film-counter. I have three backs, one with defective sealing. will cut down teeth of film-counter wheel and test Unperforated film.<br /> xkaes at aol.com can deliver filmcutters.<br /> e.g. to cut down to 120/220. for 70mm perforated i am using the asymmetric one cutting down only one side. i named it 70/120A or 70/1201C(one cut) . Naming is unofficial.<br /> for 70mm unperforated i am using 70/120S(symmetric cutting) or named 70/1202C(two cuts symmetric)<br /> I just came to the idea of integrating cutter inbetween 70mm-backs. I dont know if the producer of this cutter would be interested in such a complicated construction. maybe we must DIY.<br /> see the other thread about filmflatness plus link to apug.org about possible new vaccum-back 220 coming. <br /> http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00RZvo<br /> http://www.apug.org/forums/forum379/104403-fs-hasselblad-vacuum-back-flat-field.html<br> similar to this one:<br> http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00OU5T<br /> also in first link a 70mm Hasselblad vaccum-back is mentioned. never heard of it.<br /> Have vaccumbacks from graflex, mamiya, also special 6x7 version(onkly one seems to exist) for universal press(but it seems to be crap, wrong design too big holes and 4 + 1-orientation). Never used one of them.</p>

<p>Who has made hasselblad 70mm vaccum-backs? btw: hutech or a different company around hutech is offering vaccum-backs e.g. for p67. google</p>

<p>There is a new 50 iso film:<br> http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2014/10/film-news-new-cinestill-50-iso-daylight-xpro-c-41-film/<br> and i still have one roll of ektar 25(120) left in frigo....</p>

<p>I have added my findings about kiev 60 on kievreports-delphiforums. its about the differences between psix and kiev 60. new lens-mount-ring so all psix-stuff is working. and different camera-strap.<br> also reflexions about film-flatness and 220. thanks for the tip here. will try it out. also joining 2x 120 to get 29 images or 28.</p>

<p>I was in contact with a Mamiya Press Universal Expert some years ago. Its not SKGrimes. Who is it? Also mentioned here multiple times.</p>

<p>The link to Zeiss Camera lens news no. 10(2000) is dead. can be found on archive.org<br> I am currently studying filmflatness in kiev60(p6-mount)-.120 only- will later get hartblei 1006M which can use Hasselblad backs(also 70mm which i have).<br> complaint of hasselblad and mamiya rz-owner about "bad" lenses alarmed me. I also had filmflatness-problem but due to air-changes during flight-off. Darkslide-slit of a12 should have been taped, Hasselblad-goeteborg said.<br> 70mm film could also lead to better flatness. It also depends how you shoot. in the zeiss-article, depending film they say waiting 5 min. between the shots is the max.<br> I will try this: using 70mm-film eighter in 70mm backs (mamyia rb-70mm vaccum) and cut down afterwards for the lab. xkaes at aol.com can deliver all kind of versions. i have the 70120A(Assymetrical cut-my term) which cuts 120 from one side(one cut) to leave one perforation untouched. pls 70120S(symmetrical cut) which leaves both perforations cut, which could lead to troubles in the machines of the labs.<br> one can easily develop 70mm film with jobo-reels 2500-system without using the special one no.2517(220 lenght). there is a trick using a third reel to fix the 70mm-system.<br> http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?105131-70mm-film-in-120-220-reels-Jobo-2500-etc<br> 2. i successfully joined two 120 films after cutting down paper on filmside. one shot is lost where tape is added.<br> i could then even get 29 shots in kiev 60. but not yet tested is filmpressure and possible problems when adding tape to the pressure plate see also baierfoto.de<br> good wold be if the actual sellers of producers of 70mm film or 120 would also offer long-roll-120. e.g ilford also offers paper. but why if they dont offer long-roll-film?<br> The main advantage of using 70mm film is large film roll 30m and film not wound the way 120 is. ilford offering only 15m hp5+ every year.<br> At apug there is an information that possibly that czech who produced hasselblad-vaccum-back will offer it also for the public. price was 550 usd. search for apug hasselblad vaccum back. that would THE solution for all problems. Agfa has Avicolor X-100 and X-400 without mask, most ideal for scanning and b+w.<br> I was testing/loading(not shooting yet) old film from frigerator with and without paper(120-220-conversion as described) in kiev60. and i have seen flatness-improvements. but old film could be worse than new one. i have read that 2.8 lens must have 0.25mm film-accuracy.<br> I also have the only mamiya-press v.3 67/220 vaccum-back. but its wrong construction, holes too big and square with center holes. what a mistake. film-mountains in both directions of the holes. he did not check the mamiya vaccum-back.</p>

But there is no diffence for V-backs using film or digital-backs, right? Hasselblad V-back to Mamyia RZ67 really? But they are very expensive. i woulr rather use my mamiya RB67/70mm with vaccum and G-adapter. i know of HB-V to fuji GX680. On ebay there is hasselblad lenses to pentax 67 camera with lens(es). Not cheap.