michael_przewrocki2

Front cap with M40x0.75 male thread for Copal No.1 shutter Rafcamera/Bielarus can make also the rear cap and those for Copal 0. he ist on ebay. Pls contact him directly.

ICE Bay 1 to 52mm adapter not working. doesnt stick inside. wrong design. DONT BUY WASTE OF MONEY. Unuseable. ebay No. 222443066320 treasuresale

Waste if you are lazy right, get a digital and leave us alone. Update: Aaron Smith on FB and Mamya Press Universal forum on FB is not only offering 4x5 back for MUP but also a G-adapter which is better that the original and Super 23-G. Its most perfect since same newer G-backs must be altered to match the Original. And G-adapters are hard to get and expensive. His is so perfectly made -register within 0.1mm when compared. We managed to adjust his blades to match RB 67/70 back. We are still in perfectioning. i shaved it to takeup G-groundglass(must be taped since no hooks). but he has a holder-only didnt yet check his ebay -explanation. one can exchange his plastic groundglass. i am about to find out of rick olesons brightsreen may work. he can cut to different sizes. not to 4x5. i recognized-during Zone Z1-testings(has no G-mount! better avoiding for the moment) that only when helicoid was rotated brightscreen could be used. finetuning focus with macroslider didnt really work good enough. Must ask experts. Tony Sansone already warned: 1. " Beware of adaptations with fesnel lens. REmember the incidence of refraction. The focussed image is somewhere inside the plastic fresnel, not on the surface. Person who makes the fresnel focus screen with glass at rear must understand this and compensate for it. very very few do that. I was not using matte glass with fresnel. brightscreen has microprism and fresnel together. its used in SRLs liek Kiev 60(height must be adjusted since thinner than 1.7mm.) 2. "In the past I made fresnel lens focus screes that were super bright and sharp with the wide angle lenses.* follows he is mentioning a dispute with HB about Acute Matte Screen patent.

Nobody will order 15 x 200 usd(maybe costs even more exorbitant price) or more 3000 usd worth of 70mm. Ferrania announced their P50 in 70mm i have read. But one needs a long breath-i think years from now-till its available. 2. Mamyia RB 67/70 can be transformed into a 70/120(also 220 or longer 61.5mm-film) back. vermeercameras did it i have instructions ahnd have this back. Only 120 on donor-left-side. Mercury works can deliver 3dprinted 70-120-spool. and i have ideas to add shim on Kodak and Linhof (thicker)70mm-reels. Holgamods is under the candidates for 3dprinting for the usa. I already made a working mockup but have no time now realizing. maybe we will do(for europe only) through a 3d-printing-service like shapeways. Mamiya RB 67/70 back can hold 54 or up to 65 images(counter goes to 65). if longer when using thinner films. 0.1mm (Vericolor HC-6.5m or 0.06mm(PEO by agfa). VEricolor : 77 images. I have this back twice where in one counter is nonworking. if counter is working and one wants to shoot with thinner film getting more than 65 images one must reset the counter by removing the back. if no darkbad or room availabel itwould be wise not to shoot til 65 but move film to 65.maybe shooting til 63 advance til the end-65 and then remove the insert quickly to reset counter. I didnt yet test this. one more advice when ending 70mm film. always leave then end-tongue outside otherwise lightleaking open slit. I only used the 6.5m method in roundshot. Hasselblad Unperforated ebay-kit would be nice. i know of a workaround by removing the cogs on the wheel ands adding something used in dental-industry. onl dont know its englisch and german word. google. cogwheel is not for transporting but counting the right spacing. the mentioned 100-200 back nokton24 bought from ebay was nonworking. see rangefinderforum. 70mm films will never be death. Nato/Otan has their hands over Agfa-Gevaert Belgium. There are still lot of aerial-cams for 70mm films around. US-Military beside Maco bought remains of Agfa Avicolor X400 film(nonmasked film). colorbase 120/could be an underexpose X100. Maco has 366 m rolls of cut to 61.5mm film X-400. if only they could provide and sell us 30.5mm pieces. 366m= 12 x 30,5m. then we could make 220 or longroll-61.5mm.

Graflex Roller Installation i have a mattescreen on my super 23. its the original slip in. but the M-counter-part with fresnel are much better but cannot be used. there is a discussion about fresnel/no-fresnel-focussing somewhere. I have the G since i can use RB67/70-vaccumn-back. i have a vermeercamera-conversion to use also 120/220/longroll 61.5mm on donor-side only. 70 and 120 etc. on donorside. xkaes at aol dot com or google filmslitters can deliver any filmcutter. its better to cut 70mm perforated only on one side(1 blade 70/120-cutter) since backs need perforation to calculate the right movement. What is the right term for that? cogwheel-mechanism is doing that. Graflex RH-50 has no cogwheel. BTW: I bought both MUP 67/220 vaccum-backs which were on ebay. can now compare with the Mamiya. in my opinion its wrong design. wrong pattern at wrong place with too big holes. one of them has a cross-channel with central hole. similar like in contax RTS III with three channels. how it the shape in Contax 645? Tony Sansone one gave me deep informations about the MUP/S23-system. one is about which M-backs are better flatness-like. He told version 2 and explained why. but it was not at all clear why. will ask him again. -------------------- I have actually a 3D-printed MUP-like G-cam: Goodman Zone Z-1 . 90mm fixed with G-back. i dont trust quality of the lens have seen the difference between the 100 collapsible and 150mm blue. like day and night at least in viewfinder fully open. now searching for a groundglass. i think someone in sweden can make it. 90mm lens mounted the wrong way. focus-dot at 5 o-clock ok for verticals but not horizontals.

There is a thread or link to dropbox(here?) where someone-dr butler has made a bronica zenzanon 80(90 tube) and 65mm(10mm tube)-conversion. 65mm producing blue fringe- remembers sigma-foveon with old WA-glass! 90mm i have is crap, tube already not turning smoothly. must be stopped down, totally deadjusted, doesnt reach invinity only with backbellows-.need tube only but maybe we make a pinhole-lens. adapting skinkphoto-stuff(pinhole, zoneplate, zonesieve). right-angle finder is fantastic, focussing seems to work. we will see in the field. 150mm blue-top notch! matching viewfinder infinity maybe ok. have only 300m here. i have technical pan on 70mm to test(vacuum back and i have also two vaccum backs version 3- 67/220, one made simularly like in Contax RTS III(has only three slits with one hole each in center. the vaccum-system on custom-made back 1 are cross-lines. second back seems wrong design. four hole and center hole which is sucking into other direction! tested and examined obviously with open back. Tony told the the K-type and vers. 2 type back dont have filmflatness problem. he said thanks to film-guidances system. but i have vers. 2 and 3 and i dont see any difference. So what is the truth? 150mm blue with 35mm bellows closeup. 36mm wide image=1: 4.4 on 6x9(82mm wide) 1m exactly. 2m viewfinder matches exaclty. measured with ruler and sonar-rangefinder. this lens must be stopped down a bit. it seem not getting the same resolution like with normal distances. 40m looked through. i will take care of more informations an post the links and files. where to upload? beside MF and Largeformat in FB? photo-net once had its own Mamyia Universal/Super 23-forum.

There is a second thread here about viewfinder-calibration. there are at least two wikis. one of them is right and is publicly open the other one must be rectified about cam-type. subscription must be done trough flickr which failed since i am on an old pc which has restriction. Have two Super 23, one with M-the other with G-back. bellows have left/right wobble-ABSOLUTE NOGO. have black and chrome cams. no viewfinder indicators when 90mm collapsed. its a crap-lens. mount already stiff. or non-smootly operating. Have the blue 15mm. wow sharpness even fully open(through loupe, no images yet taken). 90mm must be stopped down to at least f11 to get sharp images. 150m on fully extended 35mm bellows. comes down from 2m to 1m exactly 1: 4.4 which is 36cm approx. on 6x9. seems not made for macro, maybe stopping down increases resolution/sharpness. on a windy day forget the bellows altogether. my 90mm is totally deadjusted.

I see now what for the long eyepieceis for. if extensions are used at the back. i wonder if its working when 35mm extension of Super 23 is at its max.

It's for using 70mm and Graflex rollfilm backs. Its for using the bulky Mamyia RB67/70mm back. There is no other 70mm back which could match, isnt it? but Long Eyepiece(official naming) is not needed. one can overview the viewfinder. will now check my other two Graflok 23 backs. one is horseman the other Graflex. Super 23 G tested.

Its about details of the system not items only. charts etc. this is where my japanese prospectus/catalog. catalog is rather a universal book about multiple cams. leaflet if you like that better. two sizes. thin and thicker. doesnt matter. the only matter is the fact that pacific rim one day will get them after i have them scanned. and they will make them public. buskus only wants manuals. yes i have finally found most of the links. when i have time i will list them all. if file-section here if not on a forum which has one, maybe FB. The extension/long Eyepiece is not needed for the following setup in Super 23 G. i added Mamyia RB67/70 magazine on Super 23 G and i can overview viewfinder. for which setup is it needed?

first link aboce is dead: here archived Medium Format Cameras Library Page Medium Format Camera Library List and Links Page Pity Tony(Antony) Sansone is hard to reach-website gone the same with Willem-Jan Markerink(Worlds best phototech-site). since i dont have the link i cannot search in archive.org. is he-with chinese relatives-still alive? we must save his website and data. Tony made a 4x5 back for Mamiya Universal/Super 23? Got two Super 23 M and G and 90mm crap-lens. rangefinder and lens totally deadjusted. infinity cannot be reached. Adjusting infinity. First one need a lens which really is reaching infinity or beyond right? I have read that infinity is more than 4km and its terrestrial, extraterrestrial is further away needs different adjustments. Somewhere else is a discussion about custommade-lenses using 90 and 100mm-tubes. 90mm-tube for 80mm Zenzanon and 100mm for 65mm. and there is a link to dropbox about a private-email-discussion. could not download on old winxp-pc. but can do on netbook. maybe someone could post a link or open new thread. in above links there are deep discussions and comparision. 50mm compared to other cams power. Important: My two Super 23 are crap regarding the built-in 35mm shift/tilt-unit. ITS WOBBLING. one cannot shoot when its windy then and long exposures.

why should there be a 0-diopter-glass in the eyepiece other than to protect camera-glass?

i have the instruction manuals its about prospectus of the accessories where the link is dead and archive dot org cannot find. the japanese are very detailed with images and charts. some informations are readable. only have other serious computer problems with scanner not installed otherwise could upload but where? i am not yet confirmed in FB Mamyia Press. pacific rim will quickly be seen in google.

hugh hughm hugh. i am not stupid sir. you seem. there may be a reason. link dead. the same with schneider-kreuznach -archive. have it uploaded from archive dot org. in FB Largeformatphotography or similar in files-section two files since 16mb exceeding 10mb-limit. Hope SK will not sue me..... if the cameramaker cannot provide their manuals anymore then its our task to help eachother. i asked butkus, he is only interested in manuals and they are online but not the mamya-press stuff in japanese language. yes i dont udnerstand japanese but when you see you will recognize they contain much more than other prospectus at least those i have. When i have time i will scan and then send pacific rim for free distribution. should leafmamiya or whatever company sue us. but hiding, blocking links is not their task. do you no other problems? i could give them away for one person or keep it without doing anything. the deeper i am digging into the MUP P23.-system the more surprises are coming up. I was in contact with tony anthony sansone and he gave me a lot of hints. about backs about precision about filmflatness. he made a 4x5 back for both cams. not press 23.

wrong as john said 56 x 106mm tested on artpanorama. circles are different. i remember 50mm: 106mm. must dig out the other lenses circle. 75 and 127 cover 612 obviously. biggest problem is film flatness in artpanorama and version 3 mamiya back tony sansone told. only dont know whats different inside leading to the problem have two 67/220 model 3 vacuum back and converted MRB67/70 to 70/120/220(61.5mm) back. 61.5mm film on donor-side also. btw: I am in search of sharper lenses and sharpest digital lenses for MP.-system. searching for a digitalback for graflok 23 or 45-graflok 23-adapter.

could you pls upload this pdf from mamiyaleaf somewhere. in the file-section if photonet has one or i will come back when i have found Mamyia Universal Press/Super 23 FB-group to save it there. I have a lot of prospectus, the 4 japanese will be scanned and sent to pacific rim usa for free online-access on their website. on has DOF-table.

That means MP 75mm on Fotoman is much better than in Artpanorama 612(MP-mount). Filmflatness is bad. My repairman could only alter a bit the mechanisme since its bad design.

get sonice mirror-stereoscope berezin must have it. have seen an alternative which has head-strap included. will match on the sonice also. one can view the subject in 3dstereo, nothing pseudo. the same can be achieved with two vertically mounted not to big SRL. 3DStereo-previewing. or two Stereodatamaker canon-compactcams with nvp3d-primsglasses(swiss product/invention) Or using Kula3d bebe on smartphone plus using one of the cheap chinese clipon stereoviewers. two smartphones can now be twinning and opencamera remote used to get 3dstereo-images of action(read on their site) or camerada app(much simpler) didnt test yet both.

I also will get the Mamiya Universal Press system again. and will get a pinhole-plate for the body-cover first. 50mm covers 105mm. must dig out my files to know how much 150mm is covering. Better would be waiting for the new chinese pinhole-plate-universal shutter. until now 18°(Cosmos Circle and other brands same products. had a shutter with integrated pinhole. too expensive since one cost 80 usd. i measured quickest exposure time which can be reached with such a simple shutter. its around 1/6 sec no matter which cable-release, be it pneumatic or mechanic. got about the same for the grundner-shutter.. this unversal shutter can take up plates of sized up to 20mm. old aupremierplan= 18mm new 20mm if i dont err. skinkfoto also match he has zoneplate an zonesives also. also a plate holder without shutter. and the chinese will also offer pinholes of HQ. 2. The same company in HK is about to deliver new compact 4x5 cams. most interesting could be a 58/65mm body with new shutter and viewfinder and pinhole/62mm register. he told they will offer also tinier body with shorter register, maybe for 35mm lens? I have just consulted again Anthony Tony Sansones tips about MUP. he told Type K and II backs are ok regardingg filmflatness. so version 3 should be a problem then. arent these those with cable-socket. i have two 6x7-back with vacuum but its wrong design(must yet check in real shooting) compared to M RB 67/70. i have vermeers 70/61.5mm conversion(donor-left side for 70 or 120/220/longroll 61.5mm). he has also given tips about Arca and Horsemanback plus adjustment which must be done when using M RB67 SD backs. Mercurycameras is offering an Instax-back. at least 500 usd. and he can deliver 70-120-spools(60 usd). have a solution with shims(2 for each spool) for Kodak 70mm spools later for linhof(thicker core) also. 3D-printer in the USA needed. Holgamods doesnt reply but i offered him doing. maybe someone could send him kodak 70mm cartridges and some 120film if he needs.

Remove Fresnel/Groundglass-combo from Toyo Quick Roll Slider 4x5 for temporary use in Bessa I. image is very sharp. Ontop is a metallic frame -see image. Inside are two blades on left and right sides. Must they positioned inbetween Fresnel and Groundglass or ontop of Groundglass right below this frame? I dont remember anymore when i compared focus at filmlevel of filmholder with Groundglass here in a 4x5 camera. my version is Graflok 23/RB 67(Toyo No. 1045. folding hood 1039 is missing. if someone has. there is also a focusing hood with 1.5x No 1040. if you need to know about the other Slider versions. i have a prospectus in german.

Here one can still get 35mm version of Lasagna Reel Firstcall Developing Tank, Lasagna Reel Here are the names for the very same reel or tape Correx-Band Seperator Maccaroni reel Lasagna-reel Film apron Ruban Gaufré It is mainly used to develop Washi W-special film ortho and new panchromatic 100 iso. AND: one can mount film sandwiched with this tape/reel-no need for normal reel. Dont know yet if working with washi-special W-film which is hard to handle. pls check Washi-film-site and FB. check second part here: if you have problems loading film into reels do this: Try washing your reels with dish soap, rinsing them in warm water, patting the excess moisture, then leaving them on a towel to dry. I find that this keeps my reels in fine working order.

The Counter-mechanisme to push down to get double amount of exposures is on upper right corner. there is no pin inside which is mentioned above. i have the Bessa I with Vaskar 105/4.5 Prontor-S. also have accidentally bough earlier the right rangefinder(MUST HAVE). Pity only one hotshor- Only the case is lacking its top...I also have a very fine more that 35 years old double bubblelevel by Linhof named Prominent. one can see both levels from behind and the right side. Just bought, no shots taken yet. thinking about shooting panorama, finding the right tripod-holder to center and find the right center of rotation-Where is it? Viewfinder is almost blind. So i would need an external one. What kind of. maybe adapting Smartphone/Phablet simulating the angle. 2x zoom could match. 2x 36mm=52mm. Maybe better opening new thread with all my questions, right?

http://www.prograf.ru/rodenstock/largeformat_en.html#table1 These tables are NOT for older Apo-Ronars like mine which seems to be a Klimsch. Have also a 480/9 Klimsch Regarding eff. FL it important to know that on Novoflex Follow-Focus-system the used 400 and 600mm Noflexars are matching exaxtly the given FLs. Novoflex told. Staeble made them, Novoflex told. Not like Apo-Ronar 360/9 which is in reality smaller. see franks thread: The lens is 360mm f/9 has an effective focal leight 355,6mm, this important when one wants to adapt them to the Novoflex B,C or D-system. if tube does not match the right lenght one must use bellows to prolong. infinity-adjustment-range is not that large. I have only data from bobs links 360/9 lens data from frank see above: Filter thread M54.5x0,5 overall lenght(corrected) 54,0 and the screw thread is m72,1(Certainly he meant M72 x 1). cannot verify(only filterthread is) since lens is taped onto Novoflex B-system.

I removed the frame of Hasselblad Standard Viewfinder Screen and was surprised that grooved side of fresnel was towards matte-side of groundglass. Can you confirm this being correct? In a Largeformat-forum is said the position of fresnel must be aimed towards lens. But there are different possibilities. I was checking focus of Toyo Quick Roll slider no 1045 for graphic 23-backs on 4x5. so i first used this focus-screen by hasselblad. but its so bad one cannot see thin details with 10x loupe. I removed then Toyo sandwich(Focussing Screen-combo) to check focus on filmback-side. Thanks a lot.

Some news about my Hasselblad 70-back for unperforated 70mm film but a) still have no Blad to test but have found out this: since i broke the mechanisme to have access to the cog-wheel-filing down the dents-see image-i must let it be repaired and attached again. repairman must attach thin rubber-o-ring beforehand. i will let fototechnik wiese hamburg do this.