michael_przewrocki2

<p>should have known, have data and MP4 with sliding-unit and one tominon 105mm. mount will not fit.<br /> sliding unit does not fit my special 4x5-70mm-backs but will on this camera.<br /> I have seen linhof and leica offered also similar 4x5-copy-cams. but couldnt find again in google.<br />do you have an idea which tripodadapter i need to have? i only see a hole. <br> Most probably glenn of glennview knows. he has an mp3 on his page.</p>

<p>must now get the right lens-plates for copal 1-shutter. have ideas how to add tilt. maybe zoerks multifocus tube? or reversed m42-p6-tilt-adapter?</p>

<p>last image of 4x5 studio-cam of unknown make.</p><div></div>

<p>next image coming, only one image/message possible?</p><div></div>

<p>I know of leica and linhof having made such simple 4x5-cameras.<br />I dont yet have it, just bought.<br />Maybe you can identify. it has polaroid-back attached on a sliding 4x5-back.<br />nb: why is there no 4x5-section here?</p><div></div>

<p>Yes sliding mount for FF/APS-C on 2x3-graflok would be fine. Together with a Graflex Graflok 4x5 Divider Back which is sliding the other direction one could easily cover 3 x 5" without shifting lens.NB: I was the one who bought the last one. Was meant for Mamiya RB67/70 vaccum-back.<br />But now comes digital. with newest Sigma SD1Q-H-Wow!<br />Hope i can found such a slider. It must slide horizontally the longer distance of 2x3.<br />Divider Back 4x5. is sliding also the longer way but magazine is mounted vertically obviously.<br />We will see if slider can be fixed into position. otherwise there will be a problem when i want to slide upwards with a vertical 4x5. Gravity would be gravely avoid good shots.<br />NB: I am also the one who won the simple Professional Polaroid Vintage Studio Camera yesterday.<br />The mentioned backs were meant to be used on a future pinhole-cam.<br />NB: cannot mount my 70mm backs in polaroid mp4 sliding-unit.</p>

<p>found: Sony FS, but FS100 really?<br />http://photorumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Sony-NEX-FS-100.jpg</p>

<p>Is there an AF-module for Sony Nex lenses on Canon M? <br />see hotshoe, exmor and Nex on the front-adapter.<br> Already asked the seller of the front-adapter. But that one is not questioned.<br />I cropped the image on left side to not confuse about the adapted lens.</p><div></div>

<p>http://www.holger.ch/Archiv/h_foto/h_foto_01_1600.html<br />here holger is telling:<br> Die RZ- und RB-Objektive sind nicht kompatibel, es gibt allerdings einen Adapterring (G-Ring), mit dem RZ-Objektive auf der RB verwendet werden können (dies weiss ich allerdings nur aus 3. Hand, selber habe ich das nicht probiert).<br /><br />With G-ring RZ-lenses can be mounted on RB. and he didnt try, only heard it.<br> I thought its viceversa. RB-lenses on RZ but no Ring needed.<br /><br /><br> And what about the KL-lenses on RZ? which need special RB-body Pro S with prolonged mount. Thanks</p>

<p>Graflex RH-50 67/70mm for perforated and unperforated films in cartridge mentioned. option to add Graflex XL-frame-pins, i have both versions. experts anthony sansone telling Mamiya RB 67 70mm back, even if vaccum is not used, is better regarding filmflatness. I also have also hasselblad 70mm back, all three not yet used.</p>

<p>I also have that article from 1976 back. pity i didnt buy it. had a different camera-system. it would be wise if someone could upload the article. could scan it but have little time right now. maybe the other person can do it.<br />results with b+w-shots are really amazing. yes speed will also be increased.<br> 1. i would like to see how the bowens illumitran-system is built. maybe i can add it to an existing bellows-system.<br />German Storz has fiberoptical-systems for medical use. one of these is a cheap pen-like mobile-system. pls search how its working.<br> 2. i did prefog, also afterfog using different methods. one is shooting actual subject once with filter then without.<br />i also tried it picture after picture with rotation-lens-swinglens-cams like widelux, horizon, and horizonts.<br />the other method is shooting grey concrete not in the sun. or if possible greycard, always underexposed by a least 2.5 stops(maybe its 3.5 must recheck my data). best is if one is selfdevelopping c-41.<br> I was using milkglass-filter. kamerawerke noble made me a special filter from an original uv-filter for their 150(6x12)-camera.<br />there is a special procedure of underexposure.<br />3. most effective contrast-reduction is resulting by using outdated colornegative films, overexposed by 1 stop and push-processed by 15%.<br> I was also prefogging whole films(mostly colornegatives but also tried slidefilm once-is a bit delicate finding the right exposure then). But i call my method secret....!<br />There must be some informations how old filmcracks had prefogged film by using flashlight.<br />maybe in one of the hundred popular-photographys iof 70/80ties which i must remove this summer.<br />maybe there is an index somewhere and then i could search for it.<br />I only know that the editors of modern photography or a different company had the option to get old issues.<br> e.g. i couldnt find an article anymore by simon nathan about widelux 120(6x12 version-later 1500 which i have now- had a big quality-drama in 1990. Herbert Keppler gave me the adress where to get it. I knew i didnt throw away. but cannot find.</p>

<p>I know i had problems using t-max-film in pancams thank to excessive thickness.<br />How thick are whatever 4x5 films?<br />Reason is i want to cut down 4x5 and use in 6x6 cam. maybe better using cams which have cut-film-backs.</p>

<p>its is stuck at 2O and does not advance nor will be reset. so its broken.instructions are telling it must be zeroed automatically when empty.<br> Update:i could zero manually. will retry using it. but have no cam.<br />on one holder i removed teeth of film-counter to use unperforated film. in a different forum it is said when using motorized HB film-advance is not garanteed, overlapping will occur. i simulated some images and there was always the same rotation. next time i will do for the hole cartridge to verify. since i cannot remove the axis i cannot add rubber which would reactivate the counter. maybe the counter is mechanically related to film-advance. will stop transport when next digit is reached. so counter is telling how longer film is advanced. Am i right?</p>

<p>http://www.squeezerlens.com/index.html<br />I made multiple DIY-configurations by using inner tire, clamp and closeup-ring m42.<br> How are such tube called which squeezerlens is using? Where to get?<br />nb: its not easy holding it for macros, maybe shortexposures or flashlight would help.<br />I am using it with zoerk minimacro-helicoid. on ebay there are others of multiple lenght and sizes.</p>

<p>On a bough-used and by me never used 70mm-back i saw counter stuck at 20. Manual told me how to reset to 0.<br> could this happen or is there always a Zero-set back normally? in other words: does mine need overhaul? dont have a camera yet.</p>

<p>I could test-mount-exactly holding-and exotic lens to a Hasselblad 500CM and was very surprised that tripod-collar was interfered with buttons around the mount. I cannot center that tripod-collar. ball head must adjust that.<br> So what is the situation on Hasselblad 2000? Does it have the same buttons? Will just dig out my Wildi(The HB manual.</p>

<p>I have three 70mm-backs, one is defective and i have killed the film-counter-wheel-mechanisme when filing down teeth for Unperforated-film-use.by force i could release the rivited holder-unit but cannot use it anymore because its unrepairable, warped.<br /> No camera available but i have instructions from The Hasselblad manual by wildi 1986<br /> on one of the others i had filmcounter stuck at 20. its now at zero. it seems it will be set back when holder is removed.<br /> a) how can i make filmcounter run without having a camera? Is it possible.<br /> b) how is o-ring mounted onto filed-down film-counter-wheel? its holder-unit with axis is riveted.<br /> have now a working unit with wheel filed down.<br> without counter working: one turn of film-advance know equiv. 1 image. hope also after 50 shots.</p><div></div>

<p>One turn of the film-advance-knob= 1 image but without counter..<br> Yes its about using unperforated film.<br> BTW: have a back which has its counter stuck at 20... OUFF! not worth repairing. If i only had known and asked the seller beforehand.<br> nb: in The Hasselblad Manual -Wildi 1986 page 61 is said:the PIN © connected to the exposure counter. The pin is the second pin which is enganging donor-cartridge. It has no connection whatsoever its only holding the cartridge and does not turn. Statement not true in my opinion.<br> About returning the counter to O:<br />"The return is activated by the littler pin over the film feeder."<br> dont understand film feeder. Where is it, its not shown in sketch?<br> "Both counters can be manually reset by turning the center knurled disc with the thumb. "<br> I have done this now for the am back which is stuck at 20.<br> Its for cutting part of the film and reset the amount of already shot images.<br> I will open a new thread about 70mm-back manipulations. since it going to be complicated here. dont have a blad yet.</p>

<p>How is that o-ring mounted instead of the teeth which i have filed down? the wheel-holder-unit is rivited. On a second back -which is defective anyway i made the mistake-when filing it down, to have the whole part squeezed in my vice. now it cannot be used anymore since its warped, wheel not turning smooth anymore.</p><div></div>

<p>The three adapters i mentioned have this size-thickness. need a micrometer to measure it more precisely since my <br /> digital caliper cannot measure directly when there is a rim. <br /> <br /> 1. K+F Concept: PLS CORRECT IN LAST LINK: 0.93MM is WRONG <br> RIGHT: 1.41mm with 0.05mm(0.01mm tolerance) shim is now 1.46mm <br /> HAS rim= hard to measure precisely with only digital caliper instead of micrometer. but i will get one for sure.<br /> 2. DSLRExchange: 1.54mm I think i cannot reach infinity at least with not all lenses. its built for mirrorclearing. <br /> has rim but does not affect extension <br /> 3. ElecMall : 1.57mm- No focus to infinity at all. <br /> has no rim <br /> Remember: The lenses are badly calibrated. i will love the day when i can check that on a SLR. <br /> Does anyome know how to calibrate lenses-Zeiss contax/yashica. or the dam....d sigma which is totally decalibrated.<br /></p>

<p>SORRY: wrong link. could someone delete old message:<br />hav finally found producer of K+F CONCEPT adapter: was hardly visible on package:<br />http://www.kentfaith.com<br> Have measured thickness of the three adapters:</p> <ul> <li>1. K+F CONCEPT (goes beyond infinity): 0.93mm</li> </ul> <ul> <li>2. DSLREXCHANGE(made for mirror-cleaning): 1.54</li> </ul> <p>out of production-the only one with screws<br> very surprised how far it can go despite some lenses not reaching infinity i was told.<br> can only measure up to 350m at the moment.</p> <ul> <li>3.Elecmall : 1.57mm</li> </ul> <p>They do not say its made for mirror-cleaning. Not focussing to infinity at all.<br> Sigma 28/1.8 is focussing to 9m only.<br> when i have the right micrometer i will measure more precisely.<br />I am very surprised that some of my Zeiss AE lenses are not at all calibrated. cannot reach infinity.</p>

<p>We are discussing the same here:<br> http://forum.mflenses.com/best-contax-yashica-to-eos-adapter-t44373.html<br />highly interesting findings by others.</p>

<p>hav finally found producer of K+F CONCEPT adapter: was hardly visible on package:<br />http://www.kenfaith.com</p>

<p>BIG REVISION regarding INFINITY FOCUS:<br />Its mostly not the adapters.<br> Pls FORGET this and concentrate on youR decalibrated lenses:<br />2. ITS NOT FOCUSSING TO INFINITY. not even 200m<br />its this one:<br />ebay #371148184919<br />cenyonline<br />elec-mall<br />(ecamcity)<br /> DONT BUY ever, only maybe if you need one which is clear mirror on EOS 5D or 6D. but infinity not in focus fully open.<br> e.g my two 50/1.zeiss and 28/1.8 sigma does not focus to infinity with the above adapter. not even 350m.<br> Lenses must be recalibrated or BETTER:<br> Getting K+F CONCEPT-adapter, why:<br> Its focussing BEYOND INFINITY, YES! So be aware.<br> This will compensate lens-decablibration.</p>

<p>I also have found a second adapter which was fitting perfectly but<br> 1. on very stiff behaving sigma 28/1.8 higspeed wide multcoating aspherical(wonderful lens) i had to bend in finally also lens-locker. and then i just found out:<br> 2. ITS NOT FOCUSSING TO INFINITY. not even 200m<br />its this one:<br />ebay #371148184919<br />cenyonline<br />elec-mall<br />(ecamcity)<br> DONT BUY ever, only maybe if you need one which is clear mirror on EOS 5D or 6D. but infinity not in focus fully open.</p>