michael_przewrocki2

<p>We know there is a M39F-M42 Adapter thread in tread. How do i have to search a similar one for M62 X.75F-M67 x.75M. so no flange at all. or how is that called? no ring inbetween threads.<br> Need it for P6/Kiev60. replacing KO6-M62 by M67-version when ring is attached to get shortest possible extension: 2mm versus 6.5mm.</p>

<p>Why all the fuss?<br />The two tubes got apart when i tried to mount and remove the lens cap. together with using and trying out what affect has using cable-release.<br> i forced the ring there which should hold or give free the lens-cap. still dont know why this could happen. all of a sudden some strange noise i could hear and then lens was in two parts.<br> will show you how they are connected. to leave the screw one the lens-tube on its counterpart(fronttube) there are not holes but slits..... so easy lens could fall apart when the screws are not tight anymore. In my opinion wrong design.</p>

<p>I have found the right affordable adapter to hold all Contax/Yashica-mount-lenses.<br> This after i have found out that the High Precision one from Optixpcb is the same ......like the NOname one i already had. the lens-locker blade is too thin and thus not strong enough to hold the lenses.<br> K+F Concept is the right one! totally different design.<br> I have the non-chipped one. will ask optixpcb to get one and add their newest v7-chip(3 lens-configuration)<br> Adapter-testing-mounting on all my zeiss and one sigma(with worn-out slot)<br> 1. every lens worked fine except zeiss planar 85/1.4(heavy lens). mounting was ok but lens slipped out of the adapter when focussing-ring reached the end. slot is worng out a but which could cause problem on certain adapters.<br />Like i had to do with the dandelion from peleng8 i had to bend i the lever/blade/spring a bit. its now not in a normal curve like from production-time. with the dandelion-chipped adapter from peleng8 its was a bit different:<br />i had to bend the spring inwards almost after ever lens-change. in the meantime i was only testing lens, no real shootings. at the end, after 2-3 years that blade broke. so i will return it.<br> I must now observe if pressure to the bent blade could cause the same breaking of the spring. i dont think so. material is looking hardened.<br> My Zeiss 85/1.4 from 20 years was not used very much like i used the 35/1.4. we had to replace the mount on 35/1.4. This should also be done for the 85/1.4 now. But i have found a workaround.<br />a) bending in the spring. it will now sit in the corner of the slot.<br> as default it would sit at the open end of the slot and will slip-out. But bending in was not enough.<br> b) i took a fine square file and filed the affected side flat plus(holding the edge to the material) i cut i little slit into the lens-mount-slot. Not its perfectly holding.<br /><br />Leitax<br />I am in constant contact with him. NB: he has now also Zeiss AE-lens-options(not for all AE-lenses). AEG=germany AEJ= japan made<br> He-for his adapters is delivering dandelion-chips with positioning tool.<br> It would be nice to have the same for optixpcb. their chip is easy programmable. easier than EMF and Dandelion. There is a third chinese chip which leitax is mentioning but he cannot review.<br> I also have a M42-optixpcb. next will be focus-programming. without precise focus-confirmation one is quitely lost. even at f-2.8 at 9m. focussing with viewfinder is never accurate.<br> Exposure<br />I could measure with P and AV plus shooting also with M<br> P -1 2/3 up to -2 stops adjusted incamera<br> AV -2/3 adjusted in camera<br> M does not show exposure right use the same like AV -2/3 stops.<br> Technical images from adapter will follow.</p> <p> </p>

<p>FROM PC i have now found out.<br />2. i have found a repair and parts manual.</p>

<p>option to insert from pc only AFTER message had been confirmed. very wierd. at least there must be an information when the url-version is showing up.<br />OK need to know:<br> 1) where must this copper-plate be placed inside lens<br> 2) how can this pin be attached inside the cable-release-tube without falling apart inside lens.<br> could be that the two really belong together since there is a wall across the hole. and everything is carried when the two tube are in position. must show you the situation just in a minute. </p> <div></div>

<p>STILL DONT KNOW where the insert button for pc-image is. it was coming after first question. wierd. want to show a second image.<br />Ruler showing mm and centimeters</p><div></div>

<p>how can i insert image from pc?</p><div></div>

<p>Now i have it: except the copper-plate.<br> no need to remove the ring, its not possible wiht me anyhow. by just turning the ring one has access to all screws to fasten the tube.<br> cable-release-connector:<br />pin inside went off inside. its a sort of tube, open on one side. i remove the mechanisme from outside. reestablishing the pin not possible. it will fall out inside. closed side towards lens. How is this pin firmly attached? it seems nothing is broken. i only see that the cable-release tube is not complete at its end. showing only 40%. </p>

<p>Its even worse now: the pin inside T-mechanisme was coming out... the collar holding it inside is 75% broken/absent. maybe better leaving the lens aside until i get that part. cable-release item. Who can deliver? there are only two screws to open from outside.</p>

<p>could make the aperture working by opening shutter and set to T. aperture ring must be fixed by rubber-ring used in kitchen.<br />but after a new trial by using cable-release(seems so have no function when lens not on rz). main mounting ring was turning a bit with noise. it was hard turning. then i had two parts in my hands....<br> later found a n omega-shaped piece of copper (contact blade?)with hole on the carpet. 24 x9 x5mm approx.</p> <p>i know how to remove the ring. by removing rubber ring, releasing screws and take the ring away. later firmly attach/turn the tube-screws.<br> must use heat from soldering machine to loosen tiny main screw.<br> only dont know where is sitting the mentioned copper-contact blade.</p>

<p>Why try? You dont know right?</p>

<p>Want to use my 180mm RZ on Kiev 60 with bellows and special adapter, maybe with rebuilt rz-closeup-ring.<br> I know only how to close shutter to stay in park-position and fully open.<br> Fotodiox has a SLR/DSRL-adapter. I will no use that for my purpose obviously.<br> But how can i change apertures.<br> NB: my my tested setup(handholding lens to 20mm closeup-ring infront of bellows i can probably shoot between 80 and 10cm max. image-size. Thanks</p>

<p>I am currently testing chipped adapters for EOS-SLR and DSLRs due to multiple problems which occured during the use of my first three ones with Dandelion and EMF-chips.<br> The problems were:<br />a) mechanical<br> b) electronical or a combination<br> c) bad uncomplete instructions.<br> I will use M42 and Contax/Yashica-lenses(Zeiss,Yashica,Sigma) but have also nikon-EOS-ones. <br> Since i cant name everything in one thread-it would confuse-i am starting with my EMF-adapters and the optixpcb-all M42-EOS.<br> <br />1. it seems its impossible to produce perfect chipped-adapters.<br> when testing my latest two, latest was a pixco, one has only a bit play which was enough that aperture will fall back to F00. so i seperated it and will never use again. Maybe one can use it in emergencies but maybe this problem may interrupt programming.<br> 2. EMF-instructions<br> In official instructions: How to setup the emf adapter for canon eos digital cameras<br> a)they do not mention that +-button must be pressed to change aperture.<br> b) start is with a combination f64 f57 f64 finishing with f57 f54 f57 with shooting inbetween in M-mode 1/60<br> I dont know if AF-setting is relevant. one shot mode AI-servo etc.<br />in dandelion-chip its relevant relating to focussing-accuracy in low-light.<br> 3. Is there a Trap-function in EMF? I can trigger all the time<br />4. Is it possible to focus-confirm in livemode?<br />5. i am getting new adapters-unchipped: reason is finding out which one is fitting EOS-Contax/Yashica.<br> its a big problem. Dont ever use the actual once from optixpcb. its a lottery and maybe lens will fall down.<br> i will come to that when having found the ring adapter. Do you have the perfect one? I know the one from novoflex. but its affordable alternative. <br> dpreview has now a special forum about that, but they kicked me out-without warning(for the second time first with europanorama then with 3dreal then with real name). second time because i mentioned getting optixpcb. first time because i multiple times mentioned genious fotowand-cards(tiny one-man-company in germany since 35 years!<br> now they asked if i would consider reentering. they kicked me out three times since i had accidentally these account. again when they found out i was coming back the second time. =awful amazon-dictatorship</p> <p> </p>

<p>Have EMF, dandelion and optixpcb-adapters for nikon, contax/yashica and M42 to EOS.<br> Some are programmable to set aperture, Focallenght and adjust focussing. aperture and FL shown in exif-data.<br> If in manualmode and 1/60 (that the startmode for programing) aperture cannot be changed-i see f5.6 fixed-then chip is non-programmable, right?<br> what about AFmodes oneshot and servo? whats their influence.</p>

Forget optixpcb if it has lens-locker. its wobbling around leading to non-contact on certain lenses. strange. have an almost similar one(locker-blade has same thickness 0.5mm) with emf which makes no problem. yes its not the best blade msut be thicker and of the right material. didnt yet find one which does not break and which does not need to be ebnt inwards all the time. if novoflex is also wobbling only a bit then "the same procedure as every year"..... will use m42-adapter whenever i can.

Got the C/Y-EOS highprecision even with newest V7 chip. for 3 lenses. but its confusing. v6 HAS it already. and instructions are far from clear. they dont give an example. M42 of course is ok but no C/Y with lens-locker blade: But badest thing: Lens-locker is crap. the same crap i already have with EMF-chip. 0.5mm thin metallic blade. at least the one with dadndleion chip from peleng8 was thicker and by bending in it really locked. but now its broken from neverending bending. will send it back. Have also bent it in for the optixpcb. but certain zeiss lenses never lock.or not properly. Some lenses lock(i also have sigma and others with c/y-mount) the solution is: Novoflex adapter with optixpcb-chip. if it can be mounted. dont have both at the moment. we will try to mount it to DSLREXCHANGE-adapter with screws(dont know any other adapter with screws) but its not for infinity..... sorry for hijacking my thread....

I will find it out since seller has no knowledge.... will try out both EMF and Dandelion-program-procedures. And sometimes one has to adjust exposure. thats why when testing sharpness of lenses by changing apertures i am using one-step changing method. --------- Beside this: want to inform about peleng8-dandelion-adapter C/Y-EOS 1. Its IS focussing to infinity. I told its not. my dpreview-review and elsewhere, Fredmiranda maybe also Rangefinderforum IS NOT TRUE but it doesn matter lens-locker will break after having to bend it in almost all the time when changing lenses. so avoid it. I have another EMF with much thinner locker. had a stability problem when bent in. slipped out.... now its straight and is holding but lens is wobbly..... optixpcb-highprecision v6 will solve that. and my dsrlexcange-adapter(not sharp at infinity as default for mirror-cleaning on some EOS FFs) has screws. so rocksolid. Trying to add chips. will use on special lens-constructions which focus to infinity.

<p>Have m42-eos chipped adapter but instructions are unclear:<br />yes have also programmable dandelion, optixpcb v6 will come.<br />I dont understand aperture is set to 0.0. i cant see that. not visible and i cannot set.<br> it seem its an EMF and not programmable. any way. FC-accuracy is very good. <br /><strong><br />Working with M42 lenses acknowledgement of the focusing with green light is not made. The aperture is set «0.0». Expo-modes:<br /><br /> 1. P (program) – identical to Av mode;<br /> 2. Tv (flash priority) – doesn’t work;<br /> 3. Av (diaphragm priority) – works as usual;<br /> 4. M (manual) – aperture and flash are changed. Inaccuracy of exposure defining is indicated by expo-correction. <br /><br />The built in "Confirm" chip tells your camera that the lens is in manual mode, allowing the "in-focus" lights to operate correctly in the viewfinder. You need to set the aperture by hand however you can set your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode to use the camera's automatic exposure facility. The chip allows all metering modes supported by your camera. </strong></p>

<p>Its M72 x 1. exactly.<br> I do now understand it. Thanks.<br> I was a bit confused since the seller did not send me the right depth gauge, different description which i oversaw.<br> i will get now one with 0.5, 0.75, 1 steps.</p>

<p>What are technical data of old Apo Ronar 480/9? its 1200g<br> rear-lens-munt seems 72mm but standard .75 pitch does not match. cannot screw in testadapter as much as it should.<br> No filter-thread. </p>

<p>details about M-lenses here: <br />http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/hot-worlds-first-techart-m-mount-to-e-mount-autofocus-adapter/<br /> contax G problems on a certain cam.<br /> one can use lense over 300g but one must hold them!<br />confirmed: Contax/Yashica and Leica R working with additional adapter.<br />system working like on Contax AX-genious.<br /> Didnt Sony show a patent on this technology but on chip-level?</p>

<p>Since there is a Contax/Yashica-M-mount-adapter it should be possible, in the combination of the new coming M-NEX-AF-adapter by Techart to get real AF for the old Zeiss or any Contax/Yashica-manual lenses.<br /> http://www.photoscala.de/Artikel/Techart-stellt-M-auf-E-Mount-Adapter-mit-Autofokus-vor<br />limit is 300g. a lot of zeiss lenses from 28/2.8 via 50/1.4 up to 100/3.5 are possible.<br /> Direkt link:<br /> They also have one for Contax G-zeiss-lenses.<br>

<p>maybe the only problem is the spring being under tension all the time. the same for the m42-lens-pin being pushed all the time. will now get optixpcb-m42-adapter too with pin untouched.<br />btw: for DIY-tilt-construction of 80mm biometar(pentacon6-lens) with m42-mount plus adapters. lens pin must be untouched, by drilling a hole into rubber. its on youtube, wonderfully working. 10 min. job.</p>

<p>http://optixpcb.com/shop/products.php?3&cPath=4<br />http://peleng8.com/af-confirm-chip-articles/af-chip-dandelion/<br />http://peleng8.com/refinement-of-adapter.html<br /><br />You need to do this for next camera bodies only:<br /><br /> EOS 33V<br /> EOS 50E<br /> EOS A2<br /> EOS 3<br /> EOS 5<br /> EOS 100<br /> EOS 1000N<br /> EOS 620 (650)<br /> EOS D30<br /> EOS D60<br /> EOS 1D / MK II / MK III<br /> EOS 1DS / MK II / MK III<br /> EOS 1N<br /> EOS 1V<br /> All ?digital and film EOS 1<br /> Its about pushing the sensor-pin inside mirror-box on certain cameras so the chip will work.<br /><br /> one can eighter add a paper/cardboard into the hole to leave the pin pressed or:<br /> adding a pin to the adapter(see peleng8-links).<br /><br />Question is now:<br />If that pin is permanently pushed and i am using EF-lenses, are there disadvantages?<br /><br />Maybe only on certain cameras?<br />I have 50E, 5, 100, 1000N and 1N SLR<br /><br />Beside this: I will have all and newest EMF, Dandelion and Optixpcb v6 soon. so i can compare and also check Focus-adjustments. I also have DSRL-Exchange-adapters(no sharp at infinity for mirror-clearance in certain FFs) where we will try to add Optixpcb-chip v6(newest) later. For those not knowing: the latter is the only adapter(to my knowledge) with screws for permanent and solid attaching to lens .<br /><br /></p>

<p>I am now understanding it:<br />if pin is pressed the inner diameter is 36.55mm.<br> m42mm-ring has approx. 40mm.<br> so the adapter which should not touch the pin "without wielded width" must be about 38mm inner diameter.</p>