dan_brown4

I'd process it for ISO 320. One stop of overexposure is a good thing. That's full strength D76, 7:30 min. at 68ºF (20ºC)

Perhaps you are having a wave of passion and desire for Leica film, which isn't a bad thing at all. A couple thoughts. If you post pictures to the Internet, where will you get them now? If you are printing B&W in your darkroom, fantastic! If you plan to scan negatives, make sure you appreciate what a pain that is.

Very nice, thank you. One is plenty, so if anyone else is interested ...

I've been shooting a IIIf with a Summitar, and I could really use that. Can't email you until I get to work in the morning, but please reserve one for me. Thank you.

Interesting,. Obviously, they are both very fine cameras. I do like the ISO knob, as opposed to menus. Apples to oranges, but my Nikon Df has an ISO dial, and I greatly prefer that mode of operation as compared to changing ISO with button/wheel/menu mode. There are only four things to control, focus, aperture, shutter, and ISO. They should all be equally convenient to access. The M10 seems to deliver those quite nicely. Just MHO.

It's like deja vu all over again.

Leica model II, 1937.

Whelp, I got it done (VBG). Found a website that describes turning the center screw in the lens cam follower to set infinity. I used the largest flat-blade screwdriver in my jeweler's screwdriver set and it fit the center screw quite nicely. My 50/2 Summitar had just been services by DAG, so I used that as a reference. Found a power pole on the horizon that was well over a mile away, and did some trial & error back and forth and got it dialed in just perfect. I also checked my 35/2.8 Biogon (it was pretty darn close), and my Tele-Elmarit 90/2.8 (it was off noticeably, and went past infinity). So, it's all good. I'll probably send the Tele-Elmarit to DAG for CLA and focus adjust. The 35mm lens should be no problem, thanks to it being and f2.8 and depth of field. I'm a happy camper, cheers.

Thank you. The vertical adjustment seems to be fine, it's the horizontal that is a bit off. In particular, the rangefinder doesn't quite reach infinity, even though all the lenses have reached the hard-stop for infinity. One of the lenses was recently calibrated, so I am quite sure it's the camera. Also, I was hoping for specific instruction.

Out shooting yesterday and I notice the my M6 isn't quite matching at infinity, and obviously needs adjustment/calibration. Before I box this up and send it off to DAG Camera, is there an alternative way to make the adjustment by myself, or perhaps locally here in Dallas TX? Thanks for your thoughts. - Dan

As stated, the SB-800 will work with all Nikon DSLRs from the D300/D700 going forward. I just came her to state my humble opinion. The SB-800 is the best of all the Nikon SB flash units. Size/power/features, it just sticks the optimum balance.

Just received my Summitar back from Don after a CLA, beautiful job, he did. Quick turn-around too. Give hm a call. Also, Sherry Kaurter may have the parts or repair you need, although her turn-around is out to a few months, as I spoke with her about two weeks ago. Good luck.

IMHO, the M6 'classic' with the small shutter speed dial is the sweet spot in the M line-up, considering construction, age, price, features.

All we need is a Df2 and some nice little metal AF lenses.

So, is this impossible?

If you are going to shoot film, you would be far better served with an M-series body. I recently picked up a near-mint M6 (vintage 1985) for a even thousand. M's are way, way better shooters the LTM, and God-forbid, a 1a.

I have pretty much discontinued use of the email associated with my photo.net account. Can't figure out how to change it? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks. - Dan

<p>Thank you all for the good information. Shot some Tri-X at 400 and developed for 7:15 (75deg F) in 1:1 XTOL (Kodak's spec) and the negatives were a bit thin, but printable. I did test the fixer, and it cleared in about 3 minutes, so I fixed it for 10, which is Kodak's recommendation for film in that fixer. There was a light magenta hue in the dried negs, but not bad. Anyway, that's all fairly good for 2013 chemistry.</p> <p>Today I shot a couple rolls of HP5 bracketed in various lighting. First roll is rinsing right now, ISO 400, 12:00 min (68deg F) in 1:1 XTOL (Kodak spec). Will decide on dev. time for second roll after I get a look at these. Hopefully I can get this dialed in PDQ and just run with it.<br /> Thanks again.</p> <p>- Dan</p>

<p>Howdy everone.</p> <p>Bought an M6 and I'm back to shooting film (HP5 in XTOL). Digging out my B&W processing gear, I have a dry pouch of XTOL and a dry pouch of Kodak Fixer, which both show expiration in 8/2013. They are flowing and granular in the pouches, and have been stored indoors in a sealed container. They looks and feel good as new.</p> <p>Question: Would you use these chemicals, or toss them and buy new?</p> <p>Thanks for your thoughts.</p> <p>- Dan</p>

<p>Is CameraLeather.com even in business anymore? Their website is totally jacked up and out of date.</p>

<p>The Summitar filters mount and engage to the bard-door hood very nicely. If you use a Summitar thread to 39mm ring, I doubt the hood would mount because the inside diameter of the hood matched the outside diameter of the Summitar, and the outside diameter of a 39mm filter is actually smaller than the outside diameter of the Summitar. In that case, I would use the Heliopan 39mm "Standard" screw-in hood.</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I am a big fan of the 2 Series carbon fiber Gitzo with four leg sections for travel. They are compact, lightweight, and stable. Mine is the GT2542L, which is the 'long' version. It's plenty stable with a 70-200mm or 300mm lens. I have the medium Kirk ball head with ARCA plates, which is also adequately stable. But lately, I have ditched the ARCA plate system, rather using the 1/4-20 screw mount with a medium Gitzo ball head. Works for me.</p>

<p>I just shook my 70-200/4 and I do hear some movement, could call it a rattle, when shaken. Probably the VR element group moving around. Never had any problem with the lens.</p>

<p>Pretty sure most every FM2 that's up for sale has been sitting unused for a very long time. I wouldn't worry about a BNIB any more than any other FM2.</p>

<p>Well Derek, that mountain laurel picture certainly tells a different story. Maybe your lens has an issue?</p>