stephen t

<p>That item should definitely be a return to seller with full refund including your shipping charges.</p>

<p>Under such circumstances the priest may allow photography from the balcony, but when the actual sacrament is given, no pics, and no flash under any circumstances. It's doable. </p> <p>Do not do anything without permission.</p>

<p>Old thread but very useful! Answered my question regarding a prewar Compur on a 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 Speed Graphic. What I haven't found out yet is what the little button on the top near the cocking lever does. It moves forward...................ah ha! It's the self timer! What a nice piece of engineering.</p> <p>I was going to take it apart and give it a good cleaning, but it seems to work so well that I am going to leave it alone for now.</p> <p>Now if I can just figure out how that rangefinder works............................</p>

<p>Might try Febreeze - it worked for me in a similar circumstance.</p>

<p>I have a couple of MF-28's and have not experienced any bleed of the LCD. I am aware of the Nikon warning, but it hasn't affected mine and they are quite old. I think you will enjoy using it. I don't think you will enjoy the MF-27 as much.<br> If there is no bleed as yet, I wouldn't worry about it personally.</p>

<p>Calvin, trust me - give him the refund. You must avoid a negative feedback regardless of the shipping cost that you must absorb. A negative feedback rating will cost you far more in the long run than the shipping cost.</p>

<p>I think the mixing directions are to ensure that the chemicals go into suspension effectively and easily. If you don't get a precipitate, you may be OK. It's been a few decades since chemistry at Ga. Tech, so I would tend to give weight to the suggestions made by some of the chemists that are members of this forum. In fact, I'm going to watch this thread so I will have an idea of what to do when I probably do the same thing one day!</p>

<p>What a shame, for her, for us, for humanity (where it can be found). I'm adding her picture to my auto-changing desktop background images.</p> <p>A pacifist is someone who hasn't been shot at..........yet.</p> <p>I read in the news today that in Kenya the oldest discovered mass slaughter has been discovered - it occurred about 10,000 years ago. Humans haven't changed much since then, have they?</p>

<p>I think the knowledge of the life of an artist enhances/enriches the appreciation of their work. Every life is a biography - some just have more pages and some make more captivating reading.</p> <p>If the purpose of life is to discover one's gift, the work of life is to develop it, and the meaning of life is to give of your gift, then perhaps Vivian has fulfilled her purpose. That may be more than many could claim of their own lives.</p> <p>Vivian has the look of one who is haunted. If not haunted, than hurt. From what I have learned of her history, that look is well justified. Little do people realize what damage can be done to others even unintentionally. We would all do well to consider the karmic implications of our thoughts and actions...........so it has been said.</p> <p>Namaste, Vivian, and thank you for your gift.</p>

<p>Thank you for posting that link. I'll be following the blog. </p>

<p>As I understand it, the counter is easily manipulated. You may want to do a little research on this forum as well as APUG. </p>

<p>I believe the OP is responding to a number of emails received regarding his sources of ingredients.</p>

<p>I think if you do a search on eBay for sold listings of a Pentax 67, you will get an excellent idea of pricing.<br> The 67II is quite a bit more expensive. <br> I have several 67 and 6x7 bodies, some with mirror lock up and some without. It is a wonderful camera. <br> Recommendations: get a body with mirror lockup for your first body. Pass on the 67II for now, and spend the money saved on lenses. Then get additional bodies.<br> Regarding the posted camera - it does indeed look almost new. You will, nonetheless, most likely have to change the light seals - they are probably goo just from age. I think the seller wants top dollar, real top dollar. As you know, you can always go down in price, but not so easily up in price. I wouldn't have any interest in the camera at that price, but that doesn't mean that it is inherently unworthy of the price. I think you can find a better bang for that amount of money. Just my opinion.<br> Good luck and best wishes.</p>

<p>Excellent evaluation. Thanks for the work. The 200-500 is now on my "to buy" list.</p>

<p>You can purchase sheets of translucent plexiglass. A search on Amazon will give you some vendors. </p> <p>I bought a sheet of 1/4" with 55% transmittance and the stuff is great for preflashing film. If I had a window to cover, I would get 1/8" or even thinner. Shipping will cost as much as the material! (The material is not expensive when purchased from a specialty dealer - pricey when purchased from a big box store).</p>

<p>The Pentax. </p> <p>HOWEVER, with the current bargain prices for an F100, I would certainly have one in the stable. The 85/1.4 wide open is very nice. </p>

<p>Actually, I like it. I think 4 sheets is plenty - if processing more at one time, I would use one of my other systems. I'll go ahead and support it, and hope it come to fruition.</p> <p>I suggest the OP post also to Analog Photography Users Group and the Large Format Photography Forum. Certainly nothing wrong with photo.net here, but APUG and LFPF are also populated by folks who may well be interested. </p> <p>Best wishes and good luck!</p>

<p>Buy a NEW Paterson copy reel. B&H and Adorama have them. They have a MUCH larger starting platform on the reel. If you don't, you'll be s.o.r.r.y.</p> <p>I use the Patersons for 35mm, and start them in the light. I invented new curse words when I tried to use the Paterson reels for 120. A kind person on this forum told me about the new reels (they are only about $10 each or so). Best $10 I ever spent on darkroom equipment.</p> <p>Be sure that your tank size will take 500ml of solution. Rodinal at 1:100 will work fine for stand or semi-stand (one inversion at 30 minutes). Some say you can use only 3ml of Rodinal per roll, but I have had issues doing so. 5ml is perfect, for me anyway.</p> <p>Good luck, and welcome to medium format. Pretty soon, you'll want a Fuji GX680, then some 4x5's, and go ahead and start saving for that 8x10. Glorious fun awaits!</p>

<p>Check to see if the mirror is "jammed." If it has not returned to it's resting position, I think that your problem can happen. I had a GS-1 with that problem. I also had an ETRSi with a similar problem. If you remove the finder and focusing screen, you can examine the mechanical levers/pivot points on the interior side of the body. A little study will reveal how the thing works.</p> <p>On the ETRSi, the teeniest tiniest drop of Nyoil on one of the pivot points fixed the problem. ONLY Nyoil, and applied with a needle oiler. A search on Amazon will find you the Nyoil. It's manufacturer packages it in little bottles, so you won't need to buy 6000 years supply! You can apply it with a toothpick, but a needle oiler with a SMALL needle is so much handier.</p> <p>On our cameras of this vintage, these little annoyances are common, and are often fixable without having to resort to a complete professional CLA.<br> Also........just for fun, check the battery voltage with a meter. I only use the Lithium batteries now. I had "opportunities" to try alkaline and silver oxide and do not even think of using them anymore. An Amazon search will find you the lithium in 6 packs. I would recommend you only use name brand ones like Duracell. Always check the "use by" date. Some of the ones you can find in drug stores are either expired or close to it.</p> <p>Hope that helps. Keep us posted.</p>

<p>Charles: many thanks. </p> <p>How do you personally handle 120 when loading? Do you unroll it and remove the paper, then wind it on the reel, which is what I have been doing, or do you have another method that works best? </p> <p>I have actually of late been re-rolling the film after removing the paper so that the tape is at the end of the roll when winding it on the reel. That keeps me from having to remove the tape before reeling the film. Could that be the step that is producing the handling marks?</p>

<p>I am experiencing a similar problem using 120 film. However, my "scratches" are not always perfectly horizontal, nor do they necessarily extend from one frame to the other. Neither do they exist on every frame, or on every roll.</p> <p>The camera is a Bronica ETRSi. The film back is 120. Light seals have been replaced on the back and the body where possible.</p> <p>The films are Ilford Delta 100 and HP5+. The worst marks on on the HP5+. Even though the lighting was not harsh, I thought that they might be due to light piping.</p> <p>I use plastic reels in Paterson tanks - the marks are well inboard of the edges of the reel. My loading procedure is a careful one (I think) - the film is not flopping all around. Developer is replenished XTOL (new batch mixed up 2 months ago).</p> <p>I checked the paper backing of one of the rolls, and there are some suspicious barely perceptible markings on the black film side of the paper. Nothing on the white side to suggest a problem. I am aware that static electricity can affect film, but it is so unpredictable in my case that I tend to rule it out.</p> <p>I'm beginning to suspect the markings/leaks/whatever may be originating at the manufacturing level.</p> <p>Attached is a scan showing the marks. The heavy lines are the marks in question - the light line is a piece of something on the scanner bed (Epson 4990). Please ignore the two stop bracketing.</p> <p><img src="/media/steve/StorageVolume1/Pictures/From%20Epson%204990/HIghlands%20Fall%202015" alt="" /></p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>peter, do you mean to say that in the *transmitted* mode for negatives and slides, that the lens is focused above the glass bed?</p>

<p>"I have not delivered their images yet. While trying to set up a time to meet to do so, they asked how many pictures were on their USB. When I told them, that's when all this happened."<br> Then I would concur with Brian S. That would be a mature, level-headed response.</p>

<p>Tell 'em to drop dead. Ooops, shame on me. Well, maybe not.</p> <p>No paper contract..........verbal contracts are enforceable if they can be proven to exist. </p> <p>Might be time for a computer "glitch" and ALL those images go to bit heaven.</p> <p>"Glitch" rhymes with "bitch," and that sounds like with what you are dealing. </p> <p>If that experience has "tainted" their whole maternity period, can you imagine what might happen if it rained one day, or the woman got an itch, or a dog barked at her? You've got a "nut" on your hands - seriously consider a computer failure, they happen all the time. And pity the poor kid she is carrying.</p>

<p>Del, are you not interested in using the camera equipment you inherited? It sounds like some nice gear that someone in your family cared for.</p> <p>But then again, you might not have been on good terms with whomever they were and will be glad to the haunted stuff out of the way! That being the case, everybody get their sage ready for smudging!</p>