williaty

So with the LS-5000, you get a somewhat different set of options and outcomes. 1) Obviously the output is set to 16bit/ch and the optical resolution of the scanner (4kdpi) 2) Multi-exposure on the LS-5000 will only run two exposures, gives very minimal improvements in tonal quality, and always results in a slightly softer image overall. Not a positive change on a properly-exposed image. 3) Multi-SAMPLING on the other hand does improve the noise floor (and therefore the dynamic range of the image) in the densest parts of the film. 4) Selecting the correct film type has made the results worse (color and tonal wise) every single time I'd set them. Setting it to generic slide film or generic negative film consistently produces the best results. 5) I have had mixed results with the Analog Gain sliders and I'm still not sure what to do with them. They never seem to move the data along the histogram in the way you want them to and moving them to values above 1 absolutely makes the flare worse. Reducing them below 1 doesn't seem to make the flare better, though. 6) In the Color tab, the color management or balance or whatever it's called is set to None because that leads to VueScan screwing around with the tonal scale the least. Overall, I find VueScan to be really limited and frustrating software compared to SilverFast Ai Studio. I have Ai Studio for my Epson V850. When I happened upon the LS-5000, I wanted to add a license for the second scanner but even with the discount for being a current owner, adding the second scanner is $350! For that price, I couldn't justify it and had to go with VueScan instead. It's quite frustrating to know that I would have much better control over what the scanner is doing if I were running Ai Studio but instead I have to suffer through VueScan making even the simple things difficult.

Charles, I'm using a current version of Vue Scan. Scanning as Slide Film, 4000dpi, Fine mode, and otherwise trying to get it to not make any changes to the data.

Look for the green shadow/echo about half an inch below and slight to the right of the main leaf. Yes, I verified it's not present in the actual slide using a Leica loupe.

The flare outside the image borders happens with negatives too, thought not as badly. I haven't seen the double-image effect with negatives *yet* but then I also haven't scanned many negatives at this point.

Second image:<div></div>

This is a new-to-me LS-5000 that I'm trying to get up and running. Initial testing confirmed that it worked but showed very bad flare. I took it apart and cleaned the mirror. While I had it open, I took a quick peek at the very small amount of the lens that I could actually see and the lens looked pretty clean. The mirror was not as bad as I expected but also didn't fully clean. While all the obvious dust and dirt came off, the surface of the mirror still has a very slightly oxidized surface like I'm used to seeing on telescope mirrors that are >20 years old. The result of the cleaning was an improvement, but didn't resolve the problem entirely. In the first picture, you can see a maximum capture area of a mounted slide. You can see the brighter areas in the image flare over into the area blocked by the slide mount. In the second image, you can see a closeup of one leaf of the main plant. The leaf has sort of an "echo" of itself. Any idea what's causing this?<div></div>

<p>The "small plate covering the bottom of the screw mechanism" is what I'm missing. The tip of the screw should bear against the missing piece. The screw mechanism is bolted to the front plate of the adapter. The missing piece should be bolted to the rear plate of the adapter. When you turn the screw, this should force the front and rear plates to move relative to each other.</p>

<p>Well, with some instruction, I got the back apart to extract the darkslide and the internals aren't pretty:<br> <img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7275/26930352816_561ccbf9f3_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="601" /></p> <p>This would be a lot of work to rehab and the seals are torn up from the corrosion. Sadly, the seals aren't just normal camera sealing foam, they're felt over formed metal springy fingers. I am not pleased with my ebaying today!</p>

<p>I just bought a supposedly working 6x6 filmback for my RZ off ebay. When it arrived, I mounted it to the camera and was unable to remove the darkslide. Taking it back off the camera, manually removing the darkslide by depressing the little interlock pin in the mount doesn't allow the darkslide to be removed either. In fact, I can't even detect any play in the darkslide (other backs let the darkslide jiggle around a few tenths of a mm even with the interlock retaining the darkslide in place).</p> <p>It seems as though the darkslide must be physically jammed in its groove. Anyone have any ideas on how to get it out?</p>

<p>I bought a Mamiya RZ67 Tilt-Shift Adapter off ebay and I paid reasonable for buying one in full working order. It just arrived and I think it's missing an important piece. The tilt movement works as you'd expect: loosen locking knob, turn tilt knob, and the thing tilts up and down. However, the shift movement isn't behaving the same way. Loosen the locking knob and the shift falls to the bottom of its travel. Turn the shift adjustment knob and nothing happens. At first, I thought maybe the shift adjusting knob worked as a stop and not as a positive control but you can't turn the shift adjusting knob far enough to touch anything that might let it function as a stop. The tip of the shift adjusting knob is ball shaped like it's the male half of a ball and socket joint (makes sense since it has to work even with tilt applied) but there's no female part for it to fit into.<br /> <br /> How is the shift actually supposed to work? Is this TS Adapter missing something?</p> <p>Looking at it closely, it really looks like it's missing a piece. It looks like there was some sort of an extension/pusher that fit up into the housing for the shift adjustment screw and pressed down against the small black bracket with the 3 tiny screws in it. You can see a dab of grease up inside the shift adjustment screw housing as though there was something sliding there in the past. Can anyone confirm?<br> <img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7037/26824557842_ab07079912_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="634" /></p> <p><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7524/26850765111_8317951595_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Yes, it was from focusingscreens.com. They included two rubber shim-like things, but every single comment I managed to find on the internet about the shims was very negative, so I'd rather find the metal shims Nikon makes.</p>

<p>The AF lenses have had their focus adjusted via the AF Fine Tune feature and they are now all dead on. I bought the new focusing screen to allow me to accurately focus MF lenses. When the split image is focused for best alignment with the lenses wide open, the resulting images, when examined closely at 100%, show the actual plane of focus is consistently off in the same direction by about 1mm at 2,000mm on all my MF lenses indicating that the focusing screen is in slightly the wrong place. If I offset the bottom half of the split image to the right by the absolute smallest amount that I can see definitively, the resulting plane of actual focus falls exactly where it should when inspected at 100%. This indicates I need to shim the focusing screen slightly down into the mirror box.</p> <p>Since the AF system is currently returning absolutely perfect results for me, I would prefer not to adjust the mirrors. The risk of making the whole problem worse is just too high.</p>

<p>I just replaced the focusing screen in my D300 with one that has a split-image focusing aid and a coarser matte that properly shows focus. Sadly, the fact that the focusing screen is actually usable reveals that the screen is a TINY bit out of position and I need to shim the screen fractionally farther away from the prism. I've located the part numbers for the focusing screen shims to do this:<br> 1K602-832 0.1mm<br />1K602-833 0.2mm<br />1K602-840 0.15mm<br />1K602-977 0.05mm<br> The real challenge, however, is actually obtaining any of these shims. Can anyone suggest a way to buy these since Nikon has their head up their butt about repair parts availability?</p>