stephen t

<p>Check around for used xray viewers - since docs are switching to digital imaging, they are very reasonably priced now. If you are viewing B&W as I do, color balance won't matter. I use a Mamiya RB67 chimney finder or my Toyo field camera loupe to check negatives, along with an xray viewer mounted on the wall and they work great.<br> Keep in mind also, that film "looks" different from digital - that's part of it's charm for me. Kudos again on the daffodils - very nice.</p>

<p>Adrian, everything you are doing sounds just fine to me. As John said, maybe during the scan? Have you looked at the negatives on a light table using a loupe? </p>

<p>What f-stop are you using? I wonder if you are getting diffractive interference with a very small aperture??<br> What film and what developer are you using? They will affect perceived as well as actual sharpness.<br> I think the flowers look just fine. Well, better than just fine, in my opinion! Window light?</p>

<p>ditto Dave's response - I get those as well.</p>

<p>Do you have a copy of the manual and follow it to the letter regarding loading the film? I have several 120 bodies and loading the film backs does not always seem intuitive to me. I've considered carrying a copy of the film loading procedures in the respective camera bags just to be sure I have a reference available. <br> If you are sure the film is loaded correctly, the issue could be with the focusing screen or the pressure plate. I'll be watching this thread to see what other more knowledgeable folks have to offer.</p>

<p>I have sprayed leather goods that had mildew with plain old white vinegar, and wiped it off with a cloth. Worked fine.<br> HOWEVER, I would wait for some additional advice before doing that to a bellows, just to be on the safe side. I am pretty sure that musty smell is from mildew. I would keep it away from my other gear for now as well.<br> I have used a cloth moistened with white vinegar to wipe down camera bodies that had been poorly stored (not by me) and had the tell tale musty smell - the vinegar takes it away and it doesn't come back. <br> I'll be following this thread to see what some others suggest. Enjoy the Graphic!</p>

<p>Old thread, I know, but I just used APH09 Rodinal from Adox, 1+25, developed for 8 minutes, HP5+ 35mm shot at 320, 20C, and it looks about right. The 15 minutes I believe to either be a typo or for a modified stand development. 8 minutes agrees with the Agfa table.<br> Anyone else shooting HP5+ at 320 and using Rodinal?</p>

<p>I think it's great news. </p>

<p>Agreed. Used one of my 101's just today.</p>

<p>I would think a vintage 35mm bellows unit with a slide copier attachment would be ideal if you can find one for a reasonable price. Light it up with a flash and determine the best exposure by observation. </p>

<p>Ditto Howard and Rick. Looks like perhaps the camera was on autofocus and picked a spot other than the couple. Pretty setting.</p>

<p>Gorilla Tape. You can get it in Black, White, and the customary Grey. </p>

<p>Larry, it may be the Pro version........B&H still shows the Superia200 consumer film.</p>

<p>My recommendation is to get an education in a marketable trade or profession. Welding, accounting, plumbing, electrical, anything that you will enjoy more than loathe, and use your photography as an avocation, which may become your occupation, but don't count on it.<br> There are a lot of fields that don't require the advanced math and sciences that are required for engineering. <br> When I was in graduate school (MBA) following engineering school (BIE) there was a fellow student who had a PhD in Aerospace Engineering but lost his job when the space program slowed down. He was studying for an MBA in accounting, and did not plan to disclose his PhD on his resume for fear of appearing "over qualified."<br> Get a good education in an area in which you are suited, and get a well-paying job, and then you can do whatever you want in the "art" world.<br> Consider also how many of the publication houses (magazines, newpapers) have terminated their photography staff and are welcoming submissions by cellphone cameras. <br> I don't want to discourage you, but at 18 you are at a crossroads. Consider all your options and choose as wisely as you can with the life experience you have and with your intuition. As some might say: "Ask the 'universe' and listen carefully!"<br> Best wishes.</p>

<p>I sort of support Freestyle and B&H with my orders. Both have been great vendors. Adorama as well. <br> <br /><br /></p>

<p>paul RON: great idea! I have one I need to do the very thing with. Do you recall what the diameter was? My vernier has gone temporarily missing!</p>

<p>I also don't think that it is in the lens, but rather the prism.</p> <p>A "Shutterbug"........LOL</p>

<p>Perhaps it's only the retaining ring on the front element. A spanner wrench would be the tool of choice in that case. To be on the safe side, I recommend you consider not using the lens until it is tightened. </p>

<p>I strongly recommend you contact an attorney. The is a case for contract law, and legal advice given on an open forum is problematic at best.<br> <br />Best wishes, and I hope you get the situation resolved to your satisfaction.</p>

<p>I enjoy the site and have no complaints whatsoever, and I'll be subscribing as well. A lot of great advice and technical information on here.</p>

<p>Kudos for Ilford.........Sorry I couldn't help, Jerry, only have 4x5 film at present, all out of 8x10.</p>

<p>Larry, do you recall the film speed you used?</p>

<p>Per Freestyle's description: "<strong>Note: Adox CMS II 20 120 size must be developed with Adotech CMS II developer and does not work with the previous version of this developer Adotech CMS.</strong>"</p> <p>Larry, was the image you posted developed 1-300 Rodinal using stand development? I like that look and used to get something similar by using a slide copier/bellows and shooting slides on Ortho 6556. I can't remember what developer I used, but it may well have been D-19. Was decades ago.<br> <br />Is there something equivalent to 6556 anymore? I would like to experiment again with ultra high contrast without going through the lith process if possible.<br> <br /> </p>

<p>I tend to agree with Steve. HOWEVER, I extensively use medium and large format B&W and print in my wet darkroom on fibre based paper. Slow, some would say tedious, but still "magic!" For everyday use and the few paid gigs I still do, I use digital, still in the 12-18 meg range. Perfectly adequate for the intended use if not printing "huge."<br> Perhaps consider keeping the larger formats, and get a consumer grade 35mm with pro grade lenses. The digital camera bodies might be considered "throwaways," but pro grade lenses are "keepers."</p>

<p>Be sure you have the same brand/weight paper in the easel when you are focusing as you are using when you are making the enlargement. Otherwise, you will have a focus plane difference.</p>