stephen t

<p>YES, it is indeed normal. For me, anyway! You may want to take along something to use as a dark cloth like the view cameras need. Easy and cheap solution, if you don't mind folks wondering what is going on under that cloth.</p>

<p>For 35mm, I recommend a Paterson tank and reel. You can get the film started on the reel in the daylight.</p> <p>For medium format, get a brand new plastic Paterson reel copy, available from any of the major mail order houses (best $9 you will ever spend on a darkroom accessory). It will have a HUGE built in plastic guide as compared to the Paterson.</p> <p>Save the steel reels for when you feel like punishing yourself!</p> <p>It takes a while to get used to loading steel reels - I've done it for years - but do it now just to sort of not lose the touch. Most of the time I use the plastic Patersons. <br> Don't give up - just change your equipment for now - it's cheap as dirt on the used market. But DO get the new plastic reels if thinking of moving up to medium format.</p>

<p>I heard of that varnish issue a few years ago. I would lean towards keeping the lens.</p>

<p>Marcin - great work!</p>

<p>Hopefully it will be something simple. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Best wishes.</p>

<p>Correct, but it keeps the shutter from firing. I don't know Hans. It sounds like there is something hanging up in the body. </p> <p>When you cock the shutter with the lens off the body, does it require pressing in the release on the side of the lens mount to de-cock the lens?</p>

<p>The darkslide is out of the film back, right?</p>

<p>There should only be one position where the lens is easily removed, and that is where the lens and body pins are synchronized in the cocked position. </p> <p>When cranking the wind lever with the lens off, does the mirror lock down as it should?</p>

<p>Is the shutter button stuck in the depressed position?<br> Is the multiple exposure lever actuated?<br> Can you easily remove the lens and ensure that the body and the lens cocking pins are synchronized?</p>

<p>I'll second the high price observation! I have an ETRSi body that I use both with and without the little handle. I don't put the handle on it anymore - I read somewhere that it was best to use just the crank body without the handle because of the additional stress the handle might place on the winding gears. While I can't confirm that it is the case, it does make some sense.</p> <p>Anticipating your question, no, I don't want to part with the handle! It may come in handy if and when I decide to lighten my collection a bit. You can probably pick up another body for what the asking price is for the little handle you found on the auction site!</p>

<p>Fred, I was hoping that you would have received a resolution to the problem with your XPro by now. I'll keep your experience in mind when considering the future purchase of equipment.</p> <p>Best wishes. Keep us informed.</p>

<p>Get the correctly sized Paterson tank, by all means. Don't worry about getting one that doesn't have the little twister piece - agitate by inversion.</p>

<p>I ordered an Omega (Rokonor now I guess) adjustable reel (like the Paterson) that has built in LARGE guide tabs. Received it today and it almost seems to load the 120 by itself! That will now be my "go to" reel for 120. Next B&H order I'll get another one. It may well turn out to be the best $10 I spent on a darkroom thingy. I highly recommend it.</p> <p>The original model Paterson's will now only be used for 35mm which can be started in the light.</p>

<p>I'm putting together an order for some more amber glass bottles, and am going to add some 4oz/120ml bottles to my darkroom. At present, my bottles are 8oz, 16oz, and 32oz, and are amber boston rounds.</p> <p>From the suggestions on this forum, I am going to start splitting my commercial solutions into smaller containers, especially for chemistry like HC110 and Rodinal, and perhaps some homebrew developers.</p> <p>I have found that pouring small quantities from the 8oz bottles with their small necks without spillage is problematic. Thus, I am considering trying the wide mouth "packer" style bottles and using child medicine syringes for chemical removal. (I have a steady supply of syringes available due to grandchildren). The caps will be phenolic with a polycone liner, the same material as the caps for the boston rounds.</p> <p>I displace the air with heavier than air gas when recapping. </p> <p>Can anyone think of any reason why the wider mouth packer bottles (still amber glass) would not be suitable for photographic chemicals?</p> <p>Is anyone using the packer wide mouth bottles, and if so, what has been your experience?</p>

<p>Charlie, congrats on the 645 acquisition - I know you will enjoy it.</p> <p>I agree with JDM - get a rectilinear first. I enjoy my fisheye lenses both on medium and small format, but use them much less frequently than the ultrawides. Well worth having, however, and I am sure you will add it to your inventory later. </p>

<p>Ditto Larry's response. </p>

<p>Ahhh.......that makes perfect sense. Thanks! Will do.</p>

<p>Some would say that getting old is not for sissies. Nor is it a privilege granted to all. Thus, some would say, try to live in the present moment and be mindful.</p>

<p>Douglas, thanks for the suggestion. </p> <p>I checked the darkslide seal by removing the darkslide, back attached to the body, and a bright light shone into the body with the mirror and back shutter tripped (performed in the darkroom). I couldn't see a light leak, so for now I think I will leave well enough alone and field test.</p> <p>Is the only way to focus check without film is to observe the distance scale while focusing?</p>

<p>I've searched for info on areas that need light seals replaced on 500 series bodies and can't find any reference to any serviceable seals other than the darkslide mylar/foam seal. Is that the only seal of concern??</p> <p>I found a reference to the "infamous" nylon arm used in film indexing, but nothing about body to back seals. I have two bodies, a 500C/M and a 500cx and can find no evidence of pre-existing velvet or foam seals. The backs seem to fit tightly, with no forward/backwards movement, but only the smallest rotary movement. The light trap rails appear well worn, but are still well defined. Are the machined traps sufficient, even after all those years?</p> <p>And no, I haven't put them to the test with film - they are recent acquisitions and I like to replace seals before a field test. Yes, I do plan to replace the darkslide seals with foam and film as has been discussed on the forum. Isn't there another area that should get some attention before field tests??</p> <p>Many thanks for any helpful suggestions.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Lex, I assume you saw the documentary on her life. What a fascinating and sad story. In many ways, I guess we are all "walking wounded," some just more than others.</p>

<p> "It almost sounds like the mafia except no one's legs get broken for not forking over 10%."<br> <br> I couldn't help but smile at that. Some would say that there's a lot of truth in that statement. At the local Chamber, of which I was once an Ambassador, but am no longer a member or a supporter, we would never have actually produced that video. If the member paid for being included on the chamber website, they were welcome to upload their videos, pending a review for appropriateness, of course.<br> <br> As far as operating expenses, there was the President, the Director of Marketing, the administrative staff, and of course the building, furniture, fixtures, and other equipment and supplies.<br> <br> The monthly "After Hours" events were especially fun, since the food and alcohol was free, compliments of the sponsoring member and the local beer, wine, and alcohol retail member.<br> <br> After a couple of years, I decided that my time was better spent elsewhere, but I must say it was an interesting experience, especially the never ending fountain of merlot, among other things.</p>

<p>As Michael wrote, I'd always consider bracketing a shot. However, with color film I would go 1 stop on either side, 1/2 stop with slide film, and 2 stops with black and white.</p>

<p>J, I'd get it. You can't have too many lenses, or so I have convinced myself!! Buy before you die; it will be too late afterwards.</p>

<p>Tim, a Chamber of Commerce usually relies heavily upon dues paying members to fund it's operations. It therefore naturally features the enterprises of it's members. Perhaps it would help to conceptualized the Chamber as a member's only institution, justly promoting the interests of it's members while offering membership to any interested individual or business. Like many other things, it's "pay to play."</p>