stephen t

<p>If you want to save a bundle on permethrin, buy a bottle of 10% at a garden store, dilute it with 19 parts of water, and you have the 0.5% solution that is sold commercially. Works dandy.</p>

<p>I found that 70% isopropyl applied with a rag takes it off with no ill effects. DON'T use 91% or denatured alcohol. </p>

<p>Kudos once again to Henry and B&H. Send that puppy back and get a new one.</p>

<p>I would take B&H up on their offer of a refund and gift certificate.</p> <p>I have purchased from them for many years. Occasionally something might come in not packed as well as I would have packed it, but it made the trip. I'm fairly certain the shipping handlers don't enjoy seven figure compensation packages. As long as you receive good customer service, I would be inclined to give them another opportunity.</p> <p>"Rattling around inside the box" is often the way I receive items ordered from Amazon! </p> <p>By the way, I would be somewhat livid myself, but not for as long as I would have been several years ago! Best wishes and enjoy your Leica. I personally would be patient, use something else this weekend, and get another one with pristine packaging. </p>

<p>I use the Op/Tech strap and the loops, except for the System A and B adaptors for the medium format gear. Never had a problem so far.</p> <p>I would personally stay away from those swivel hooks - as you can see, they are, or can be, and invitation to a disaster.</p>

<p>WOW, great info! I'm glad this thread got warmed back up. I'm bookmarking it right now.</p>

<p>Laura, several drugstores and Target carry it. DEET is extremely effective, BUT can and will damage some plastics.</p> <p>Lyme disease is nasty, and for anyone going into the outdoors, I recommend treating your clothes with a Permethrin spray. It is nontoxic to humans and in it's dried form is deadly to insects. Spray the inside of your pants and let them dry. The Permethrin will survive a few washings. Google it - much to learn - it's very available and can easily be found at feed and seed and outdoor stores. You can buy the concentrate and dilute it yourself, or buy it ready to use.</p> <p>THEN, after treating your pants, and your socks and shoes/boots, of course, spray DEET on your legs or pants and everywhere that is exposed that will not be in contact with plastics. Use the non-DEET repellent on your back, face, arms, and hands. I go one extra step and dust my boots, socks, and lower leg pants with Sevin dust that I keep in an old sock in a coffee can. </p> <p>One might say that is a lot of trouble for just piddling in the woods for while, but if you ever know anyone that has contracted Lyme disease from a deer tick or West Nile from a mosquito, you will change your mind. Naughty things do indeed happen to nice people. All the time! Don't be scared, just be prepared.</p>

<p>Well, neither the bride nor the groom appear to be Rhodes Scholars. In their case, "blurry" might be considered "best."</p>

<p>Ditto the "sweet spot" of about 2000mAh. I am personally sticking with those. I have never had an Eneloop give out on me even after several years. Not so with "regular" NiMH.</p>

<p>Ditto the UPS MyChoice option. </p> <p>Also, kudos to B&H and to Henry. I'm a very satisfied customer of more years than I can count.</p>

<p>Nick, I am pretty sure if you check the ilfordphoto.com site they have recommended times for pushing to 1600. I've done it in medium format with good results, probably using HC110.</p>

<p>Nice job. Congratulations.</p>

<p>Well, I got through the first two pages, but will go ahead and comment without reading the last two.</p> <p>I believe the seller was justified in refusing a refund. The listing specified "no returns." If I were the seller, I WOULD have allowed the refund, relisted the meter, and mentioned that it originally specified mercury batteries.</p> <p>William, I believe there are zinc-air hearing aid batteries that are inexpensive and will fit just fine and the meter will be quite usable. I think they are 675's.</p> <p>I have purchased many items using the auction site and have only had ONE transaction over the years that required the site's assistance: a medium format lens ABSOLUTELY eaten up with fungus and listed as being in excellent like new condition.</p> <p>I don't think a problem seller will last long - I always check a seller's feedback number as well as their score - low in either makes me asks them some questions about the item.</p>

<p>Use a print dryer (the type that has two surfaces and a canvas cover that stretches over the tops) WITHOUT the heat and AFTER they have dried using whatever method you use for drying. Let them stay under pressure for a few days. </p> <p>Drying blotters have not worked well for me (fiber based prints) except AFTER the prints were dry. Then as Stephen and Mike have commented, load the blotter books up with heavy books!</p> <p>You might want to "go on the hunt" for a dry mount press. If you do, I recommend only using four ply mounting board - I found that the two ply would succumb to a curl.</p>

<p>If you use the SB28 in it's Auto, not TTL, mode it will work fine. </p>

<p>I like the Spotmatics, and have "collected" just about every model of both the Honeywell and the Asahi. Although all the meters work, I never use them. Rather, I use either Sunny 16 or a heldheld meter, or both.</p> <p>Why "collect" such "boatanchors?" They are almost as cheap as dirt, and I enjoy giving new life to old things. (Maybe someone will do the same for me some day!)</p> <p>They are FUN to restore (mirror bumpers and light seals - they haven't needed anything more), fun to use, and pretty to look at! </p> <p>If you think about the more "transcendental" aspects of old film cameras, that adds another dimension to the care and feeding of the things.</p> <p>The next time you see one languishing for an asking price of peanuts, please snatch it up - I'm running out of space!</p>

<p>I kinda liked the idea of the "dark leak!"</p> <p>However, like Larry, I have experienced some "interesting" things in cemeteries as well. My current choice is cremation, AFTER a thorough investigation and satisfactory evidence of "no continuing life signs remain within that body!"</p>

<p>Glass first.</p>

<p>I have also used an iPhone 5 app when I forget to carry one of my light meters. It works great. I compared it to several of my handheld meters and, as you mentioned, it is well within a stop. I still use Sunny16 as a comparative measure - amazing how it teaches you to evaluate lighting conditions.</p>

<p>Nice images, John. Just goes to show you don't NEED 36mp for pretty pictures - doesn't hurt, of course! </p> <p>I'll remember the naptha trick - will probably come in handy.</p>

<p>I think they are great. Congrats.</p> <p>I'm considering trying Diafine with PanF+ in 35mm. I believe it is supposed to tame the high contrast scenes a bit, even though I really like high contrast scenes! So I will probably shoot the PanF+ in one body, and shoot the same scene, same lens, different body loaded with FP4+ and developed in Rodinal or HC110. THAT should make for an interesting comparison.</p> <p>Welcome back to film, and again, great images.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Nick, I tell you what I will do. I will trade you one of my EOS1N's for your 5DIII and throw in some film. If not the 1N, how about the 1RS, or the 1V?</p> <p>PS: I think that is a great shot! Congrats</p>

<p>You will lose something in the scan - I always do from my Epson 4990 - not a lot - but some. An optical print from the negative will most likely look different.</p> <p>A slower film, say an ISO 100, will "generally" have finer grain and a bit higher resolution. F100's are great cameras. When shooting 35mm, I will carry two bodies, one loaded with ISO100 and one with ISO400. At the "give away" prices of F100's, you may want to pick up another - that will give you lots of leeway in choosing apertures/shutter speeds to fit your subject.</p>

<p>Did you remove the dark slide?</p>

<p>I also doubt it will have any affect on your images. I wouldn't worry about it at all. </p>