Gus Lazzari

Not sure what the confusion is here. Every camera requires a method of "slipping" the take-up. When advancing & as the take-up spool acquires more film, its circumference expands. So logically a camera design mandates 'clutch' slippage or the film will begin to have its sprocket holes torn etc...

My "accessorized" EOS-M3 with a EF-EOS mount adapter and a fantastic EFS 10-18mm zoom, is IMHO the most versatile bargain V-log'ers combo. The EF-EOS mount adapter has its own very useful tripod mount, and the camera not only has a built-in microphone jack, but also has a "Flip-Up" screen ! - All essential for decent V-logging...

As usual Marc, thanks for the time & effort to keep this info available. Loved the Alpa & Nikkormat 'updates'...

How about an all nickle, freshly serviced (New & improved shutter curtains), 1930 Leica I Model A Really only one thing wrong with it now, its missing it's shutter release 'collar'.

The early 35mm f/2 Canon FD lens is a beautifully built & performing lens. I personally UV bleached mine with a 'cheap' Ultra Violet LED light unit bought from Ebay; no more amber cast...

That's odd. They're still serviceable, but with very limited parts availability. Now: Order the tool. Remove the 'Leica' adhesive access hole 'DOT'. A couple of drops of naphtha (Lighter fluid) will soften up the adhesive. Spin the 'DOT' & fingernail it out. Don't use any tools etc. Very easy to slip ! The moving 2nd image mechanism will now be visible along with a spot of Loctite sealant. Carefully apply a drop of MEK to loosen the hold on the sliding eccentric. Engage the tool into the hole and gently twist in either direction to 'slide' the unit vertical up/down depending on your viewfinder needs. Very sensitive and miniscule movement, so just a little bit of pressure is required. Second image is more of the technician's view of this service procedure (We apply the solvent for softening of the Red Dot from the underside of the top-plate). Notice how the tool engages, & the spot of Loctite, & the best angle for adjustment...

I triple that recommendation ! On this I strongly disagree. The Darkroom.com <<< click For $11 plus $4 for enhanced scans, plus beautiful included 4x6 glossy prints, and add a minor amount for shipping (Both ways included!). And in less than a week, you've got a CD, prints, negatives, proof-sheet and even on-line scans before the package reaches you ! Its "fun" when the package arrives; and its "fun" when you don't have to spend the time to print out pictures on your printer with your own ink & photo paper, and then trim them ! Finally, I have RAW negatives that will last ! No stupid Hard or Flash Drive failures. No software concerns 10 years from now etc.etc...

Sorry but that's a load of hooey. Whoever told you that could also have told you it was a "Flux Capacitor" or "You need a new engine" - Meaningless/Rediculous You don't automatically go to the end of the "Block Diagram" when you're diagnosing a camera repair (Doubt he even inspected anything without the covers on). You first begin with the many simple remedies. The top-line Pro SLR's of that era (Nikon & Canon), had many internal defenses with Military Spec electronics. My experience dictates that since the camera has VERY low mileage on it, it likely has a contaminated 'release magnet' armature surface (Its sticking/stuck shut)...

You'd be going from an AMAZING camera to an 'at best', a mediocre *roll-of-the-dice piece of equipment. Most all Pre-Owned Leica M9 units, have been improved from their issues & still have marketability. IMHO, you're throwing good money after bad; go the little bit extra to acquire one of these improved M9's. *Paper weight potential

There's no connection; like saying my car won't start because my accelerator doesn't work. It's a very simple mechanism/design, just go to 'school' on it & take it apart. What do you have to lose at this point?

The rewind button at the baseplate, doesn't affect the charging of the shutter. It just frees up the sprocket. It should pop out when you wind and at the same time put your finger on top of the sprocket (Simulate film resistance). Your little Half-Frame likely gave up the 'Solar Cell' ghost (They don't last forever). No meter, no release; it simulates a 'light too low' situation. Does the RED flag come into the viewfinder as you're pressing down the shutter release?

Make sure you remove the batteries ASAP. Remove the film. Extract the base-plate. Heat each of the three screws securing the tripod socket with a solder iron (Loctite used). Pull out the socket, Put camera upside down AND SHAKE until metal debris leaves the scene. If needed, easy removal of battery box (Bigger hole for metal exit). As you can see from the image provided, there isn't much of anything in that vicinity that's too sensitive to 'shorting'. Get that metal intruder out & it may just work again...

Since the lens pivots (Is loose) as you unfold the barn-door, this should be easy. Guessing that the release mechanism has traveled past its normal position. Maybe somewhere in the 'release' multi linkage, it's bent out of place. OR as Greg N. stated : "it is possible that the whole shutter has been rotated on its axis"

Thank you for this fine effort gentleman ! After deciding which developer to sub, I'll use this very helpful technique. Some of the images of the recent total Solar Eclipse did have in&out clouds come into the frame. To me more interesting than the simple Sun-Moon images. But maybe this Ultra high contrast film will blow them out, who knows. With altering the developer to a lower contrast 'soup', maybe I can retain some of the cloud content. Hopefully I can extract something usable that I can post here in the thread. Finally, I could have used anyone of several digital cameras and avoided all this labor & uncertainty. But having one roll of refrigerated ultra fine grain 6 ASA film that I thought had no possible use, when the Uber Bright Light subject matter arose, I could think of no other method and as a result, seemed to experience 'clouded' judgment...

Sorry but I can't tell from the photo. Are the finger actuated button tabs pushed in and won't pop-back/retract? Or are these missing? - Odd if they're missing; since they can only enter from the inside of the ring, this means someone took them apart. If you want to take inventory of what's going on inside of them, twist the front part and the back in opposite directions counterclockwise, then they'll unscrew apart. The casting is then extracted revealing the spring mechanism (Stuff will be loose, but this is how I clean and lubricate them). BTW: Rubber wrenches may be required if they've sustained an impact or never been taken apart.

Yes Sandy, thank you for spending the time to look all that up ! The PDF might shed some light on a substitute developer. Please do pass that on. 'Google' either my name or TLC Camera Repair for an email address - Thanks again !

Developing Ektagraphic HC Slide 135-36 film (For Black & White Titles). I shot the one & only roll I had of the eclipse with this film rated at ASA 6. The Data Sheet among other developers, calls for Kodak D-11. I obviously don't have this special D-11. Without going to Ebay and buying a 'classic' makes 1 Gal bag of D-11 for over $15 (I just want to develop ONE roll), is there a lower contrast substitute developer? It would be great if I could use one of the two that I already have: Rodinal and Tmax developers. Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions...

Keeping with that "bargain" theme: The Canon P <<< click and it's still impressive tiny rangefinder lenses. For SLR, the Pentax MX <<< click and it's array of bargain compact lenses. For a little fixed lens gem, the Olympus 35RC <<< click - What more can you ask for in a quality Manual OR Auto compact RF...

Sent mine to Germany. I heard they were replacing the body covering with the original 'leather' instead of the revised pebble look 'stuff'. And it did in fact come back with a new 'Original' covering. Firmware now 1.210 - I couldn't be more pleased with the result ! Let me add that the colors out of this CCD sensor when handled properly (Post processing), really do resemble the ole Kodachrome... On a 7 year old camera, pretty amazing; few if any companies will back their products in this manner without 1st being forced legally. A 10 out of 10 - The entire Leica service process was truly flawless...

For easily less than $100 including the shipping, you have the choice of either the Minox 35 ML or the Minolta AL-F. Both are full frame compacts that have 38mm or less focal lengths. The Minolta has RF focusing & an excellent meter with shutter priority auto. The Minox has the opposite "Guesstimation" focus with aperture priority auto metering (Plus also a Program setting). My testing shows the German made Minox lens to be sharper, but the Minolta feels great with it's traditional design. Minolta AL-F review <<< click - Thanks for a well done post goes to Maciek Stankiewicz

If the 35-70 f/4 (Don't get the f/3.5 - Made in Japan) is too short a range, then consider these two big pendulum swings: The LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-R 21-35mm ASPH. ROM zoom, was a fantastic performer for me. But because it was soooo expensive, I sold it and instead purchased a more modern, wider, weatherized and far cheaper zoom (Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM), it also has 'Image Stabilization' ! A 'stunning' performer that like the Leica zoom, mimics fixed focal length performance (No joke, they're both that good). So because of this amazing performance achievement, one can now carry one fairly compact lens that covers easily FOUR of the most usable wide focal lengths... The tele without a doubt (and still a relative bargain), is the Leica VARIO-ELMAR-R 80-200mm f/4 ROM zoom - a Mint condition unit will yield state of the art performance. Where to buy? Ebay's buyer protection is hard to beat. Besides, most of the 'brick & mortar' stores utilize this venue. And as a result are forced to offer this buyer protection. So making the purchase local, over the counter & in person, may not provide this protection on pre-owned equipment, so first check their Ebay 'store'... BTW: Leica 'R' lenses can be easily used on Canon EOS camera bodies (Film or Digital), but Canon can't properly mount to a Leica R body. Both of course work beautifully with mirrorless digital bodies...

The "Laie, Hawaii 2016" image provided by Bill Bowes, reminds me of the Public Broadcasting Service (PBS) displayed on YouTube: American Experience "The Mormons" <<< click I comment on this video and I'm actually the person behind the user name "y2ktube"

David, if you're that set on a certain unique lens, why mismatch so badly? Just get the body that it was designed for. The Voigtlander Bessa R3M and R3A both have the 40mm brightline views. Currently an 'Average' Leica M4-2 (No meter), and a 'Mint' Bessa R3M (Built-in meter), are similarly priced... BTW: Though not as 'fast', the 40mm Summicron is a bargain for such an amazing performer.

It will cost more than $200 to fix, it's water damaged... ("there are other issues here")

I agree, and the OP incorrectly states the condition: "cosmetics are quite good". In fact, cosmetically it's clearly "Below Average". Images provided indicate impact related abrasions and blemishes. Plus, rust isn't usually encountered at the point of the aperture blades, so there are other issues here. But to add some value to the lens, it should be mentioned that the lens will also focus properly on any screw mount camera. The tiny set-screw in the mount at the 6 O'clock position shows a locked in M-mount. When removed, it's a perfect focus registered LTM unit. - The ad might read: Leica "8-Element" 35mm Summicron in dual LTM & M mounts. Lens is in below average condition, sold AS-IS.