Gus Lazzari

The slow speed escapement which is located directly below the mirrorbox 'floor', needs to be solvent washed. If its a 'beater' or aka. in bargain condition, then squirt (not too much, use common sense) some Naphtha (Lighter fluid) right in a gap visible once the baseplate and tripod socket assembly have been removed. TechTip - Nikon applied Loctite to virtually every fastener in their Pro cameras. MD coupling screw & the tripod assembly screws will be easier to remove if heat is first applied. Finally, if it has sentimental value or if it's in excellent-plus condition, then it's screaming at you to be 'torn-down' & properly serviced. Try Sover Wong in the UK - I also service them, but am currently too booked up to take-in anymore equipment. The bottom of the escapement plate & it's clockwork mechanism is at the end of the arrows...

The SF20 vs. SF24D They're identical in TTL mode on your M6TTL, as with the M7, R8, & R9 . The difference being that the SF20 is not compatible with the digitals like an M8 or M9 in TTL mode. Now a SF24D is compatible with all of them; plus among other things, it has more compensation-range, a greater range of aperture choices available for use in Auto mode on a M6TTL and two snap-in diffusers (24mm & 85mm) recognized by the flash. Finally, the 24D was especially suited for the P&S Leica CM and the Digilux 2.

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 160 Post processed using the discontinued Picasa... Yosemite Valley...

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 160 Post processed using "Holga-ish" action via the discontinued Picasa... Half Dome & Waterfall view...

Depends on the condition of both your Minolta items and the Nikon you'd be buying... In general the Ultra Speed f/1.2 lens is more valuable than the usually malfunctioning XK bodies.

To simplify things for the Original Poster: Automatic flash pours out the light until its photocell receives the proper amount. The intensity of the light from the flash is varied (small tick of light up to a FULL power blast) : By a tiny photocell built into the flash that monitors the light bouncing off of the subject OR By the photocell mounted inside the camera which is pointed directly at the film - this monitors the light bouncing off of the FILM - hence TTL (Through The Lens). Obviously when your photocell is located inside the camera, EVERYTHING (even if it's pitch dark !) that reflects off the film is taken into account. - This includes: Film material coloring (Darker film stock may shorten flash distance). Speed of film (Faster emulsions will extend your flash distance). Filters installed (This will shorten your flash's distance). Selected or wide-open lens aperture (Ultra fast lenses will extend your flash distance). Subject matter coloring (Dark materials will absorb the flash intensity). Subject matter distance. Ambient light for the purposes of fill-in-flash.

Can anybody else plug into (multiple) Pnet search fields the model of a camera and receive results? I plug in something like "Leica M8" "or "Nikon F2", and it surprisingly comes back with "No results found" Huh? - I know for a fact that thread discussions included these camera model numbers in their post titles... Are searches only available for New Post "tagged" words? Rather odd that older archived discussions (the ones you'd need to look up) aren't searchable via the actual Pnet website - Google finds Pnet posts just fine...: Leica M8 <<< click Nikon F2 <<< click

The common standard for camera manufactures and therefore the majority of service manuals, all have the Curtain Travel Time (CTT or Run Time) specifications listed. This is measured in milliseconds for each individual shutter curtain. This spec is important not only for performance reasons (accuracy of Slow & Higher speeds), but also for longevity of the curtain & ribbon materials. I find that many folks who have attempted to remedy a camera that is experiencing flawed or malfunctioning shutter speeds, CRANK up the tensions so as to power through congealed/aged lubricants. This addition tension causes shutter curtains and ribbons to become separated from their hold ribs or detached from the spinning roll-up drums. Add to that brake malfunctions (Bouncing, light-leaks etc.). Finally, in order to precisely measure this critical CTT measurement, a THREE sensor Shutter Speed Tester is a required piece of equipment. Sensor #1 is the Beginning, #2 the Center and #3 the End of the film plane. The #1 & #3 sensors are used to calculate the CTT. - See the seventeenth entry in this Pnet thread - A 3 sensor tester <<< click

Main CPU requires replacement. Having serviced many of these when they were economical to service, this symptom was indicative of having the large IC chip to the left of the eyepiece blown by a static charge or a flash mounting event redirecting voltage to the non-sync pins...

Please realize, this isn't your typical 'lightweight' Olympus Zuiko lens. It's in fact beefy, what with its 14 glass elements weighing in at almost 2lbs ! Hitting the front of a long lens will bring about LEVERAGE forces to where it's mounted. Besides, who can say what the damage is until some technical inspection occurs (Like saying "hey I dropped my lens, or I crashed my Ferrari, what's wrong with it & how much to fix it?" Click on the image I provided and notice the condition of the rear shield. With the OP's unit, those two protecting prongs were in fact 'used'! Looks to me like they did their job in protecting the rear elements when confronted by an obvious trauma (without a doubt his zoom lens has been mistreated). Finally, I've tested after servicing many 80's era Zooms; this included Nikon & even Vivitar Series-One units. By far the best performers were #1 The Canon 'L' glass 80-200 FD, #2 The Carl Zeiss 80-200 Contax/Y and followed closely by #3 this Olympus 65-200. But beware, because of the age, the complex mechanism & its required lubrication, and the nature of having to move the groups in & out (inhaling/exhaling air), these zooms are all subject to severe out-gas lube fumes and mold/fungus... Canon 'L' - Olympus OM - Zeiss Contax Fantastic 80's era Zooms

It's remarkable ! Even with me feeling gusty wind at ground level, and the Mavic Air reporting back that it's experiencing upper level High Winds (via the attached iPhone displayed controller), I see NO evidence of it in the footage ! YouTube is full of folks reviewing the various functions of this breakthrough drone...

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 160 Post processed using "Lomo-ish" action via the discontinued Picasa... "Yosemite Falls"

I simply don't agree. With the introduction of the amazing Mavic Air, you'll see, drone flight is simple & virtually 'User Friendly'. Since I've owned mine, I have yet to crash it ! This ain't no toy - It has so many wonderful innovations along with 4K video images; all assembled in a quality built ridiculously TINY PACKAGE !

For the USA, this is pretty pricey fuel... "Welcome to California"

It's pretty apparent from your photos, that the zoom lens has sustained multiple impacts. Tolerances are tight on Pro level precision equipment like in the OM system, so a shock or impact to a sensitive area can certainly cause 'binding' or out-right malfunction. BTW, I also own the 65-200mm Zuiko Zoom; if its free of fog/haze, without even having to qualify it as an early 80's zoom, it's a superb image producer !

It's actually the opposite. Age is badly affecting all the "R" models. The main issue has to do with lubricant failures (congealing which creates stiffness in the component its supposed to assist, and/or the accompanying out-gas fuming): You already mentioned the Depth-of-Field preview lever. This can stiffen so badly that when the operator forces it, causes the plastic lever to sever. Along the same lines, internal mirrorbox mechanism lubrication failure. This also creates various problematic symptoms. Lube failure out-gassing. This creates electronic switch chatter with any item that has an exposed contact pad or wiper (creating malfunctions for either the meter on the R6, or for the more complex Auto exposure systems in the R4, R5, R7, R8 & R9). Mirrorbox anti-flare lining not only is cracking, but its self-stick backing is also contributing to the out-gas issues. Foam substance; dust, cushioning & light seal materials, are a contamination due to age related decay. Even with the mechanical shutter of the R6, lube failure may at some point show up in the slow speed escapement 'clock' mechanism. The other models have electromagnet/armature surfaces that if contaminated, will produce speed errors. Leicaflexes on the other hand, lack ANY foam (black yarn used), power through failed lubricant (speeds very reliable), and have robust metering (if the batterybox never experienced acid leakage). The most common issue with Leicaflexes, are the (Leica diamond) prism unit viewfinder flaws (small out of focus blobs caused by age related tarnish to the silver/aluminum coating). Still, if an "R" or Leicaflex has had preventive or proactive service performed, then certainly many of these issues can be avoided. So there shouldn't be any concern in using them for important activities...

Loosen slightly & equally the four screws facing you when looking at the mount. Mount it to your M6 and see if the focus ring is loose, if it did loosen, then the mount on the lens has been warped. Try torquing them down progressively in a cross pattern as to even out the pressures on the mount. If this doesn't remedy the issue, then get it to a competent technician: The lens either sustained a shock or impact, or someone overtighten in wrong manner and created the issue...

Here are some recent images from a Minolta Talker: Distressed Barn Useful & Very Good Flash pictures ! Kodak Portra 800 developed & scanned by Dwayne's Photo I have others but I'm experiencing Upload errors...

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 500 Post processed via the discontinued Picasa... Yosemite Forest - Flood, beatles, man-made clearing and lots of "Leaves of Three, Leave it be's"...

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/2.8 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 160 (Not bad for having fired it at a 1/30th !) Should have upped the ISO. Post processed via the discontinued Picasa... Ken Rockwell's Yosemite Photo Safari - The 'Meet & Greet' at the "Food Court"...

Any comments/experience on the filter kits for the Mavic Air? With the multitude of prices and choices available, I'd like to have a set of no more than only three filters that don't cause gimbal start-up issues/errors (Lightweight with a secure attachment method). High Quality units seem to be heavy and therefore cause sporadic start-up-routine failures... So here's the catch, I'm not concerned about the cost, it's that I desire the finest quality absent the issues !

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 160, Post processed via the discontinued Picasa with the "Orton-ish" action applied... Dana Point Marina, Southern California

Yes, he & I bantered often about his belief that it was okay to leave cameras tensioned/wound/cocked without any issues created by possible spring fatigue. I of course had the opposing view, to always store your camera or leaf-shutter released whenever ones shoot was completed...

Very bad. These "alkaline" batteries among other things, LEAK too easily ! Please only use the Silver Oxide formula batteries. This was the only battery out when the camera was originally designed. Besides, even with the potential ability to acquire a parts salvage unit (especially with the 'Mirrorbox' battery chamber of the EL2), rolling the dice with a probable time waster on a no-more-parts available camera, is foolhardy...

8-Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 Post processed via Picasa - Click on the image to see the detail of the people (i.e. Mother & child at right edge). Viewing Bridge in Yosemite...